Have you seen these
New dryer, new room, ductwork is probably an old problem
So close to finishing the project! Washer is in place, and dryer is next -- right now it's in the living room. Got the cable attached to the dryer yesterday. Before I slide it into the new room (doorway so tight the washer scraped both sides of the doorway on the way in), I started planning ahead for the ductwork.
This is an LG DLEX3370W, and I got the 3911EZ9131X exit kit, and I want side exit instead of rear. Got the existing rear exit duct out, test fit the elbow and straight pipe for exiting the side (looking at the front of the machine, new exit on the left). I was worried about how much of the new duct would stick out the side -- need not have worried, it's flush! OK, now how do I attach a flexible duct to that? I have semi-rigid duct, new, even though I also have the flexible foil kind but do not want to use that. The semi-rigid won't fit through the hole in the side of the dryer, really not thrilled about Dremelling the side of the new dryer for clearance. What am I missing here? And no way to get a clamp on that connection once it's 1" INSIDE the dryer.
It occurs to me, and please explain why it won't work... I still have the straight section for rear exit, that I removed; one end has "insertion crimps". So, I was thinking of cutting off a couple inches to make an extender, attaching it with a couple of sheet metal screws that I hope will pass through the opening and into the interior of the dryer. Uh, the crimps would face into the machine, I presume this is counter to the normally desired flow but maybe not catch a lot of lint?
Or are there other solutions? BTW, from the side of the dryer to the wall of the house is only 8-3/4", a VERY short run; I'll probably be doing lint clean-outs from OUTSIDE the house.
This is an LG DLEX3370W, and I got the 3911EZ9131X exit kit, and I want side exit instead of rear. Got the existing rear exit duct out, test fit the elbow and straight pipe for exiting the side (looking at the front of the machine, new exit on the left). I was worried about how much of the new duct would stick out the side -- need not have worried, it's flush! OK, now how do I attach a flexible duct to that? I have semi-rigid duct, new, even though I also have the flexible foil kind but do not want to use that. The semi-rigid won't fit through the hole in the side of the dryer, really not thrilled about Dremelling the side of the new dryer for clearance. What am I missing here? And no way to get a clamp on that connection once it's 1" INSIDE the dryer.
It occurs to me, and please explain why it won't work... I still have the straight section for rear exit, that I removed; one end has "insertion crimps". So, I was thinking of cutting off a couple inches to make an extender, attaching it with a couple of sheet metal screws that I hope will pass through the opening and into the interior of the dryer. Uh, the crimps would face into the machine, I presume this is counter to the normally desired flow but maybe not catch a lot of lint?
Or are there other solutions? BTW, from the side of the dryer to the wall of the house is only 8-3/4", a VERY short run; I'll probably be doing lint clean-outs from OUTSIDE the house.
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No, and that's so cool! I checked out the video plus their website for thew MV180 as I do not have a 90 degree truncates after exiting the dryer. However, I do not think it will help, it still shows a flew line attached to the dryer with a clamp, so back to my original problem.Have you seen these
That said, perhaps an easier solution? I noticed that "the existing rear exit duct" and the "straight pipe for exiting the side" are exactly the same thing, except the former is almost a foot longer. So, I presume I could cut it to make my own "straight pipe for exiting the side" with however much projection I desire, eh?
Uh, what's the best way for cutting this stuff?
Most round duct will unlock at the seam if you push the seam in then when it is open you can cut it.No, and that's so cool! I checked out the video plus their website for thew MV180 as I do not have a 90 degree truncates after exiting the dryer. However, I do not think it will help, it still shows a flew line attached to the dryer with a clamp, so back to my original problem.
That said, perhaps an easier solution? I noticed that "the existing rear exit duct" and the "straight pipe for exiting the side" are exactly the same thing, except the former is almost a foot longer. So, I presume I could cut it to make my own "straight pipe for exiting the side" with however much projection I desire, eh?
Uh, what's the best way for cutting this stuff?
Most, but not this stuff IIRC. Seam pressed very flat and I see evidence of what appears to be at least one spot weld.Most round duct will unlock at the seam if you push the seam in then when it is open you can cut it.
If it is not to long you might cut it length ways and turn when you get to the line??Most, but not this stuff IIRC. Seam pressed very flat and I see evidence of what appears to be at least one spot weld.
YOU might, but with my skills with the aviation shears... probably not. :wink2: I decided to risk using a saber saw, it worked out fine. That said, I spent longer with files cleaning up the edge so I would not sever a finger when lifting the dryer into place, than I did making the cut in the first place. I figured 1-1/2" projection is plenty to attach the flex duct w/a clamp.If it is not to long you might cut it length ways and turn when you get to the line??
I'd report the final installation, but I read somewhere that duct tape is not duct tape anymore, and the installation requires taping the two connections inside the dryer where the dust turns 90 degrees. So I'm getting a roll of the metal-foil type, there goes another $15 but once I have this in place, I hope to never need to mess with it again.
OK, it's installed, but the side-exit pipe passes VERY close to a bundle of wires -- as in touching, regardless of whether the wires are routed above or below the pipe. SAFE? Not sure what the max temp is on dryer wiring, I guess it cannot be a worse environment than the inside of my pellet stove... but yikes. No way to re-route, and this is not mentioned in the installation directions.
UPDATE:
Dealt with LG's support team on the website, frustrating; all of their communications are e-mails from a no-reply address so I kept having to post new messages on their "contact us" website. And they asked for a photo? Really? So I stuck a flashlight in there, got my digital camera through the hole, and actually got a decent photo. I heard back, they say it's OK. Maybe I was being paranoid about the wires touching the tube... but once in place, not enthused about removing it again. As soon as the neighbor helps lift the dryer into place over the washer, I should be about done.
Dealt with LG's support team on the website, frustrating; all of their communications are e-mails from a no-reply address so I kept having to post new messages on their "contact us" website. And they asked for a photo? Really? So I stuck a flashlight in there, got my digital camera through the hole, and actually got a decent photo. I heard back, they say it's OK. Maybe I was being paranoid about the wires touching the tube... but once in place, not enthused about removing it again. As soon as the neighbor helps lift the dryer into place over the washer, I should be about done.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
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