If you go with Sherwin-Williams, I like their Deckscapes line of deck sealers. Just remember that even though your deck is covered for the most part, it will be an annual or biannual maintenance issue...........decks just take such a beating.......they require lots of maintenance.
New Deck, Sealing Questions
Hello,
I just installed a new deck, (actually they are overlayed on top of two balconies each 8'x24'.)
They are made of Cedar so they aren't treated or anything. What would be the best method and product for sealing this. I do not want to stain or add tone to it, i just want to seal the cedar and protect it from fading.
Also, both decks/balconies have a full roof over them with gutters, so they only get wet from the rain that is blown on to them. So basically they arent in full sun all day either.
My choices are Lowes or Sherwin Williams, so keep that in mind with product recommendations.
I appreciate any help, and I hope this is the right place for this thread.
I just installed a new deck, (actually they are overlayed on top of two balconies each 8'x24'.)
They are made of Cedar so they aren't treated or anything. What would be the best method and product for sealing this. I do not want to stain or add tone to it, i just want to seal the cedar and protect it from fading.
Also, both decks/balconies have a full roof over them with gutters, so they only get wet from the rain that is blown on to them. So basically they arent in full sun all day either.
My choices are Lowes or Sherwin Williams, so keep that in mind with product recommendations.
I appreciate any help, and I hope this is the right place for this thread.
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
i was looking at the deckscapes products at the sherwin williams, (they were busy so i couldnt talk to someone, i didnt have time to wait), but i was looking at this:
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_...terior_paint_coatings/deck_products/finishes/
then they had some kind of sealer in a plastic jug. (i cant find it, online)
I didnt know which to get. Is the one in the link above like a latex? Would i roll that on?
I notice some spray it on with one of those pump sprayers. I suppose you only use that for that more liquid stuff in the plastic jug? or can you do that with this stuff that comes in the pain cans?
Would that product i linked to be the best thing to get if i went to sherwin williams and what would be the best way to apply it?
how many coats, how thick....
thanks alot
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_...terior_paint_coatings/deck_products/finishes/
then they had some kind of sealer in a plastic jug. (i cant find it, online)
I didnt know which to get. Is the one in the link above like a latex? Would i roll that on?
I notice some spray it on with one of those pump sprayers. I suppose you only use that for that more liquid stuff in the plastic jug? or can you do that with this stuff that comes in the pain cans?
Would that product i linked to be the best thing to get if i went to sherwin williams and what would be the best way to apply it?
how many coats, how thick....
thanks alot
one more thing.
i have been reading online....that the clear sealers dont protect against UV, so the cedar will grey. what do i need to do or use to help keep it from greying?
Also, if i sealed this 1-2 times a year, and it still greyed a lot and i wanted to stain it later, would i have to sand it down to apply a stain?
i have been reading online....that the clear sealers dont protect against UV, so the cedar will grey. what do i need to do or use to help keep it from greying?
Also, if i sealed this 1-2 times a year, and it still greyed a lot and i wanted to stain it later, would i have to sand it down to apply a stain?
I wanted to add some more info:
I live in northeast texas, so its hot and dry. it rains like 2 times a year, for about 5 seconds each time, haha.
No but seriously, i thought that info might also be important.
anyways, im going to go fine pictures of greyed cedar, i dont even know what that looks like.
I live in northeast texas, so its hot and dry. it rains like 2 times a year, for about 5 seconds each time, haha.
No but seriously, i thought that info might also be important.
anyways, im going to go fine pictures of greyed cedar, i dont even know what that looks like.
Even though the deck is new you will still want to clean it using a deck cleaner that contains sodium percarbonate and not bleach. Use low pressure 500-800psi on a pressure washer and then apply a brightner. A good brightner will contain citric and oxlic acid. Between lowes and SW I would use SW translucent Deckscapes.
i was looking at the deckscapes products at the sherwin williams, (they were busy so i couldnt talk to someone, i didnt have time to wait), but i was looking at this:
http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_...terior_paint_coatings/deck_products/finishes/
then they had some kind of sealer in a plastic jug. (i cant find it, online)
I didnt know which to get. Is the one in the link above like a latex? Would i roll that on?
I notice some spray it on with one of those pump sprayers. I suppose you only use that for that more liquid stuff in the plastic jug? or can you do that with this stuff that comes in the pain cans?
Would that product i linked to be the best thing to get if i went to sherwin williams and what would be the best way to apply it?
how many coats, how thick....
thanks alot
DMG, that's the product. Now, I must say I live in Eastern Ohio where the weather is not quite as harsh as it is in Texas. Deckscapes is tricky to use because you really only apply one coat. If you try to put on another coat after it dries, it repels itself and just lays on the surface.
As for keeping the cedar from graying, well, I also have used CWF-UV with cedar tone to prevent that sort of thing. It too is a waterbourne type finish that you apply and as it begins to soak into the wood, you apply another "wet-on-wet" coat so it penetrates better. It is made by the Flood Co. and can be found at most paint/big box stores.
There are, of course, many other type of deck sealing products. Many are very expensive such as Sikkens. Personally, with your weather conditions, I would favor the CWF-UV over the SW Deckscapes.
DMG, that's the product. Now, I must say I live in Eastern Ohio where the weather is not quite as harsh as it is in Texas. Deckscapes is tricky to use because you really only apply one coat. If you try to put on another coat after it dries, it repels itself and just lays on the surface.
As for keeping the cedar from graying, well, I also have used CWF-UV with cedar tone to prevent that sort of thing. It too is a waterbourne type finish that you apply and as it begins to soak into the wood, you apply another "wet-on-wet" coat so it penetrates better. It is made by the Flood Co. and can be found at most paint/big box stores.
There are, of course, many other type of deck sealing products. Many are very expensive such as Sikkens. Personally, with your weather conditions, I would favor the CWF-UV over the SW Deckscapes.
I actually used that CWF-UV with cedar tone on some pieces of cedar i did in a different outdoor project, during early spring of this year. I was dissapointed when i realized it was a latex based sealer though (i had already applied it, and only noticed it when i went to clean my paint trey and it just peeled off). now its only mid summer this year and its already looking like its peeling.
wouldnt it be better to use some oil based sealer? from my very limited experience and research on this, any water/latex based sealers are a bad idea due to peeling.
correct me if i am wrong or you disagree, and please elaborate with explanations.
woudnt all this water based stuff eventually peel? if so, will i have to sand/spray it off every time i reapply the stuff?
will i have to spray/sand/clean with chemicals every time i reapply any thing? if i do it twice a year that seems pretty insane.
im going to get a retractable style pool cover to cover this when not in use if this is going to take this much work. haha.
and what is with the sealers in those plastic jugs and/or with the use of those sprayers to apply the sealers?
sorry, i always just jump into doing stuff with out looking to much into and i would like a little more help on this.
thanks for everything so far.
Personally I would use Sikkens SRD oil base transparent, but if your choices are Lowes or SW I would use SWI actually used that CWF-UV with cedar tone on some pieces of cedar i did in a different outdoor project, during early spring of this year. I was dissapointed when i realized it was a latex based sealer though (i had already applied it, and only noticed it when i went to clean my paint trey and it just peeled off). now its only mid summer this year and its already looking like its peeling.
wouldnt it be better to use some oil based sealer? from my very limited experience and research on this, any water/latex based sealers are a bad idea due to peeling.
correct me if i am wrong or you disagree, and please elaborate with explanations.
woudnt all this water based stuff eventually peel? if so, will i have to sand/spray it off every time i reapply the stuff?
will i ha
ve to spray/sand/clean with chemicals every time i reapply any thing? if i do it twice a year that seems pretty insane.
im going to get a retractable style pool cover to cover this when not in use if this is going to take this much work. haha.
and what is with the sealers in those plastic jugs and/or with the use of those sprayers to apply the sealers?
sorry, i always just jump into doing stuff with out looking to much into and i would like a little more help on this.
thanks for everything so far.
The sealers used in the pump up sprayers are junk in my opinion. CWF peeling? Wow, I've never seen it peel........it fades and discolors a bit if you don't maintain it at least every 2 years, but I can honestly say I've never seen it peel. Most deck stains use the waterbourne technology.......water based clean up with the characteristics of a penetrating oil when you apply it. Most oil stains are being phased out due to high VOC's but I know some are still available. True oil stains are a pain to work with........very runny and they splatter all over everything. The waterbournes can at least be cleaned up easily with soap and water. I would think that you will have less maintenance issues with your deck that will mostly be covered. Here in the Midwest, decks take a pounding due to rain, sleet, hail, snow laying on the surface (as it melts it acts like sandpaper on a deck) & the summer sun. Like I said, you may also want to research the high end stains like Cabot or Sikkens before you choose.
ok, thanks alot for the info. i am going to keep checking out some stuff and hopefully make a decision within the next 2 days. if i use that waterbourne stuff and get it on some metal railings i have, and metal siding, would that be something that i would have to act fast to get it up with soap and water or could i wait till the deck dries and then clean it up?
and if i use some of this waterbourne stuff now, what would be the process of reapplying in a 6 months, or a year? and lets say i do this once a year, what would be the process of applying the new coat?
thanks again.
and if i use some of this waterbourne stuff now, what would be the process of reapplying in a 6 months, or a year? and lets say i do this once a year, what would be the process of applying the new coat?
thanks again.
Your worried about the deck graying, sanding, peeling? Why? You are reading into this way to much. Its going to happen if you keep a natural look to it, afterall....it is wood. Thompsons Waterseal is what I use to seal fences, and decks. Its easy, it works well, and you don't need a paint brush to apply. A pump up sprayer is all thats needed and it has the conditioning materials to keep the wood looking good.
If you choose to apply a Deckscapes, be ready to keep up on the maintenance and get your brush ready every couple years. It is labor intensive on large decks.
Been pressure washing decks for years now with my father-in-law who has been doing them for 35 years. All that chemical crap is a waist if $$$. People use it around here in VA, and they have to do it all over again in a few years thinking they are getting better results. Once again, its wood. In a few years you do it again and your just digging in your wallet for no reason. Wide angle pressure washer tip, and water, just close enough to see the grey from the sun come off. Do this, let it dry for a day and seal it. Done deal!
J-Daddyshammer
If you choose to apply a Deckscapes, be ready to keep up on the maintenance and get your brush ready every couple years. It is labor intensive on large decks.
Been pressure washing decks for years now with my father-in-law who has been doing them for 35 years. All that chemical crap is a waist if $$$. People use it around here in VA, and they have to do it all over again in a few years thinking they are getting better results. Once again, its wood. In a few years you do it again and your just digging in your wallet for no reason. Wide angle pressure washer tip, and water, just close enough to see the grey from the sun come off. Do this, let it dry for a day and seal it. Done deal!
J-Daddyshammer
Oh, use a towel or drop cloth to cover anything you don't want it to get on. I do this with fences that need sealant right up next to houses. You don't need to soak the wood. Just a light misting and it will do the penetrating work.
J-Daddyshammer
J-Daddyshammer
DMG, clean up any spills, drips, etc. as soon as you can if possible. Clean up with soap and water. Any deck sealing product whether oil or waterbourne is gonna require regular maintenance. Since yours is covered and you live in a dry (snow free, I hope) environment, I'm guessing every other year you would apply a fresh coat. Usually you can tell when water quits beading on the deck that it's time to reapply. Before reapplying I generally scrub with a gentle brush using warm water or I gently pressure wash so as not to damage the wood fibers. I allow it to dry. Then, if a light sanding is required, I sand and remove the dust, then reapply the stain.
Daddyshammer, I hope you weren't serious about Thompsons Water Seal.........unless it has changed, it is the absolute worst product to apply to wood. I tried it ONCE and the wood turned almost BLACK after 3 months. It seemed to ATTRACT mold and dirt unlike any product I have ever used. Hammer, you were right about cedar turning gray..........if you like that gray look you really needn't apply anything to the deck.
Daddyshammer, I hope you weren't serious about Thompsons Water Seal.........unless it has changed, it is the absolute worst product to apply to wood. I tried it ONCE and the wood turned almost BLACK after 3 months. It seemed to ATTRACT mold and dirt unlike any product I have ever used. Hammer, you were right about cedar turning gray..........if you like that gray look you really needn't apply anything to the deck.
I sell CWF-UV and everything I've got is an oil product. They evidently make both now. Lowes is more likely to have the acrylic than the oil. CWF is a decent choice to add a minimal amount of color and still get your UV blockers. CWF is NOT completely clear though. It does have a slight amber tone that will change the wood color the smallest amount. Wolman Raincoat is another one we used quite a bit. It's completely clear and has UV blockers just like CWF. Neither is as good as a pigmented stain, but if you absolutely cannot tolerate adding any color then these are the way to go.
i am leaning toward getting the clear deckscapes stuff from sherwin williams i linked to earlier. the reason, mostly because the only cwf product they carry at my lowes is the acrylic and its the cedar toned ( i have used it and its to orange and it covers up all the color variations in the wood. i looked at flood's website and they actually have a CWF-UV and CWF-Oil, and in clear, but i cant get it locally, and i live far from anything else. so i think im going to go with the deckscapes. (but i always change my mind on a dime). ill update, with a pic. ill take one before too.
ok, im sorry, i keep reading stuff and keep getting more confused. and have some more questions.
is the deckscapes acrylic. i have also looked at cabot stuff, some of its oil. which one would be better, doesnt acrylic peel?
also,
would it be bad to apply this in 95+ degree weather.....i think we have low humidity since its so dry.
the back balcony deck gets sun in the evening, and the front in the morning. should i apply it when there in the shade?
whats the deal with the cleaners and stuff? i cant just apply this straight to the bare brand new wood? its brand new deck, its clean and everything.
also, (youll probably say this was a bad idea, but) the cedar we used had a rough side, and a smooth side. we put it with the rough side up because it was extremely better looking, and every deck i have been on is just plain slippery when it gets wet. my wife was worried about splintering or whatever, but i rubbed my hands and feet on the rough sides, hard, and fast, on several boards and there were no problems. i did it on the smooth side and got a bad splinter immediately.
i keep reading things about people saying to sand it down and use a brush to remove all those wood fibers, but why? what would be the purpose? is it only if you want a smooth finish?
i was also just curious to ask. when people install a non treated non composite deck, do they seal the wood on the bottom too, (like seal the pieces of wood all over before installing?) just wondering.
i need to get this done this week....
thanks again for the help. sorry if i sound dumb, but thats why im here, to ask for your help.
is the deckscapes acrylic. i have also looked at cabot stuff, some of its oil. which one would be better, doesnt acrylic peel?
also,
would it be bad to apply this in 95+ degree weather.....i think we have low humidity since its so dry.
the back balcony deck gets sun in the evening, and the front in the morning. should i apply it when there in the shade?
whats the deal with the cleaners and stuff? i cant just apply this straight to the bare brand new wood? its brand new deck, its clean and everything.
also, (youll probably say this was a bad idea, but) the cedar we used had a rough side, and a smooth side. we put it with the rough side up because it was extremely better looking, and every deck i have been on is just plain slippery when it gets wet. my wife was worried about splintering or whatever, but i rubbed my hands and feet on the rough sides, hard, and fast, on several boards and there were no problems. i did it on the smooth side and got a bad splinter immediately.
i keep reading things about people saying to sand it down and use a brush to remove all those wood fibers, but why? what would be the purpose? is it only if you want a smooth finish?
i was also just curious to ask. when people install a non treated non composite deck, do they seal the wood on the bottom too, (like seal the pieces of wood all over before installing?) just wondering.
i need to get this done this week....
thanks again for the help. sorry if i sound dumb, but thats why im here, to ask for your help.
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
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