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Discussion Starter #1
AMANA ASZ140241AD 2-ton Split System Heat Pump
Replacing the original Condenser Fan Motor with a universal fit Dayton 4M205 from Graingers.
Am posting my Original Configuration schematic and my Proposed Configuration with the new motor for your consideration before I energize the unit. The new motor is not a plug-n-play since unfortunately the wire colors are different. Also, it would be a lot easier if I had the inside schematic of the new motor like the old one has.
Thanks in advance for any comments.
PROPOSED.jpg
 

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No, that wiring isn’t correct. Looks like your feeding from the same leg. And your replacing a duel speed motor with a single. Why?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The last repairman installed a single speed 4-wire motor that ran for just 1 month out of the 1 year warranty. The only Goodman-Amana 2-speed motor I can find has just 3 wires (Blk - Brn - Blu)
 

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The white wire needs to connect to T2 of the relay.

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the reply "beenthere" . . . I submit version2 . . . apparently my original fan motor is obsolete
 

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It will work like that, but its a bit unconventional. It would be better to have the white on the relay/contactor itself. Less confusion down the road, if you ever have to have somebody else work on it. Or sell the house.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thank you . . . perhaps you can tell me the difference between a Start Cap and a Run Cap . . . since if I go with this new wiring, half of the Dual Cap isn't being used?
 

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If your referring to the run cap in the diagram. Always best to use a new capacitor when installing a new motor.
 

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Thats better.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thats better.
Now the bad news . . . the new condenser fan motor is up and running and now the evaporator fan motor tries to start but only oscillates briefly. Compressor & fan motor come on but then turn off in a minute after they sense no heating-cooling transfer on the inside coil. As a result the suction line gets too hot to touch before this shutdown. Hope the compressor isn't damaged.
BTW, it's a scroll compressor.
 

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Check the capacitor of the indoor motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's a 3/4HP 220V 5A ECM so I'll have to see if it has one? Maybe they all do?
I assume the oscillation tells us it's getting voltage and hopefully the control board is good?
If the motor is toast, would it be a good practice to replace the control board along with the new motor?
 
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