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Discussion Starter #1
OK we are back again. recently we had the thread about tearing down the wall in the bedroom and getting new floors. so now that the walls are down, a new ceiling is needed. i also just want to say i really appreciate all the advice and input we have gotten for everything. i originally joined way back when we needed to replace our roof (that thread was like 50pages) and even now the sense of community here is amazing. i cant thank you guys enough for taking the time to look and offer suggestions.

so our latest idea is to use beadboard. the original ceiling had drop tiles, but we are not big fans of that.

here is what it looks like. not best picture. what we got is rafters with furring strips running perpendicular that held the tiles in before.


so what do you guys think? we were going to do drywall, but we figure we can put up beadboard ourselves easier, since it's a little lighter and we wont have to do all the finishing. plus i like the look of it. any other ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so drywall is cheaper than beadboard? from our math it doesnt seem that way when you add everything up. maybe you can explain why since i am no expert
 

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ok so been reading the last few hours. beadboard sounds good. my next question is-what type nails should i use? 2inch is long enough right?
 

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How thick is the bead board? Thin material us held with building adhesive and brads---

3/4" needs finishing nails----I would still suggest a drywall backer---but you can be successful without it.
 
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I like the look of bead board too. It would also look good with the existing wood paneling you have there already.
 

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If it's what I'm thinking it's 1/8" thick and comes in 4'x8' sheets. If that is what you mean and I agree it is a nice look. I am going to assume you are going to paint it, not stain it. If that is the case I would suggest cut, prime, and paint before you install. Then go back and fill your nail holes, and touch up.
 

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If the beadboard is really masonite panelling, you'll need to put up drywall first and then glue the panelling to it. And if you exceed the 8' panel length, you'll need to use a cap strip or divider to hide the joint. You'll need to be very careful that your bead lines match from one sheet to the next or it will look like a hack job. If it's regular beaded boards, then that's a different animal. I've seen beadboard used as ceilings that really looked nice, but I've seen some poorly installed that looked terrible. Take your time and do it right.
 

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Not a big fan of bead board on a ceiling but if I had to do it I would not want to use any form of beaded paneling.
You then would have to go back and add something to cover up all the ugly seams everywhere.
If I did get stuck doing it I sure would use 1/2 Drywall first then 3/8 thick real T X G. You can get it up to 16' long.
It's installed just like hardwood flooring is installed.
I've been using a pneumatic narrow crown staple gun with 1-1/2 staples. The tip fits right on the tounge to make it easy to line up.
With two people I've done a 12 X 15 room in less then a day.
When I see paneling on a ceiling my first thought it looks like a moble home.
 
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Not masonite- wood
Not paneling-no finish solid wood
No seams to go back and hide-made so edges overlap and form a bead
Install with brad nailer or 16gauge nailer nail in bead groove and you don't have to go back and fill nail holes.
Takes paint well
I have used this stuff in bathrooms as wainscote. Cut it in 3 32" pieces, hold off floor the height of the baseboard, nail, reinstall base board, put a cap or chair rail on top, prime, paint the same as trim usually semi or gloss white.
Oh yea sell at HD for $21 a sheet.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
How thick is the bead board? Thin material us held with building adhesive and brads---

3/4" needs finishing nails----I would still suggest a drywall backer---but you can be successful without it.
the beadboard is MDF 1/4in thick. we were going to rent a nail gun. so we figure 1/4in for furring strip, 1/4in for board, so 2inch nail. good? i rather not use adhesive to keep it easy
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Not masonite- wood
Not paneling-no finish solid wood
No seams to go back and hide-made so edges overlap and form a bead
Install with brad nailer or 16gauge nailer nail in bead groove and you don't have to go back and fill nail holes.
Takes paint well
I have used this stuff in bathrooms as wainscote. Cut it in 3 32" pieces, hold off floor the height of the baseboard, nail, reinstall base board, put a cap or chair rail on top, prime, paint the same as trim usually semi or gloss white.
Oh yea sell at HD for $21 a sheet.
thank you. can you please state the name of this product? we are not using masonite. i was looking at the MDF sheets.

also, isnt the difference between brad and 16gauge just that brad is 18guage?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Not a big fan of bead board on a ceiling but if I had to do it I would not want to use any form of beaded paneling.
You then would have to go back and add something to cover up all the ugly seams everywhere.
If I did get stuck doing it I sure would use 1/2 Drywall first then 3/8 thick real T X G. You can get it up to 16' long.
It's installed just like hardwood flooring is installed.
I've been using a pneumatic narrow crown staple gun with 1-1/2 staples. The tip fits right on the tounge to make it easy to line up.
With two people I've done a 12 X 15 room in less then a day.
When I see paneling on a ceiling my first thought it looks like a moble home.
well so the whole point was basically coming up with a alternative to drywall. what's TXG?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
so wow! you guys are great! thank you so much!

so here is where we are going. the idea was to avoid using drywall to keep costs down. (since our other projects are already over budget. we ended up having 3 total structural engineers come out and look at the walls you guys advised about and one of them was $500 a pop). so basically we are trying to make this as DIY as possible. so even stupid cavemen like me can do it:p

so right now we are going with MDF 1/4in thickness. and i was thinking nailing them with air compressor. 18guage, 2inch nails. good?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
that was tedious. so they had nailed the drop ceiling to the furring strips with like 1746295435312 staples. just spent the day pulling out each staple one by one. it was easy, but so tedious.

so the 2 rooms dimensions are 13x16 and 13x15 ft. so i am thinking about 400 sq ft total of beadboard to use.

so at home depot with something like this:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...alogId=10053&R=202688627&catEntryId=202688627
it gives me 42sq ft.

so 400/40=10. so at $65 per box 65x10= $650. so i will have a brand new ceiling for $650! thats a lot less than us hiring out a drywall guy.

the only other expense is the nail gun, compressor, and nails. and of course, working my butt off! :)
 

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1 1/2"is long enough----Sounds like fun-----it is possible to end up not running a straight line--if you don't get the tongue and groove compressed evenly---every 4 feet or so--check your work with a string line---if you are in need of making a correction---do it gradually over the next three courses or so--
 
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Discussion Starter #19
good reminder mike! i have never done this tongue and groove thing before, so any tips are appreciated!

as usual, pictures will be posted, and laughs will happen. hopefully this time no ER visit
 
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