[lmorsino]

Hi, I need some wiring help. 2 things:

1 - I've got this kitchen remodel going, 20A circuits on the outlets, must be GFCI protected. So I bought 20A GFCIs. Does that mean all the outlets have to be 20A rated as well? Seems like I never see 20A outlets in residences....

2 - Look at this box. http://imgur.com/mKgLR08
The terminal on the GFCI is basically touching the box. This can't be right. Am I allowed to use this kind of box? Do I need insulators or something? I chose this metal box because I'm using MC cable. Are there alternatives to metal box for this situation??

Thanks!
lmorsino

 

[jbberns]

1. 15 amp are fine if there is more than one on a 20amp circuit.

2. that is what most call a handy box. It turns out to not be very handy. If you're going in and out of the outlet your box will be overfilled. Use a four square box with a plaster ring. It would be a lot easier to work with.

 

[al_smelter]

I assume you will use the GFCI receptacle in the first box and then feed the subsequent receptacles from the load side of that GFCI. You can use 15 amp receptacles on the load side, but why? 20 amp receptacles are not that expensive.

If you have walls opened up, install 4" square boxes with plaster rings, regardless of what is going in them. If the walls aren't open, you can't use a handy box anyway [unless it is surface mounted] In any event, find a bigger box that will better fit the GFCI.

 

[eastcoastsparky]

I assume you will use the GFCI receptacle in the first box and then feed the subsequent receptacles from the load side of that GFCI. You can use 15 amp receptacles on the load side, but why? 20 amp receptacles are not that expensive.

If you have walls opened up, install 4" square boxes with plaster rings, regardless of what is going in them. If the walls aren't open, you can't use a handy box anyway [unless it is surface mounted] In any event, find a bigger box that will better fit the GFCI.

You dont need 20 amp recept, they are usually only use for commercial applications, and i doubt you have anything that requires a 20 amp plug. You dont need to waste your money.

 

[jbberns]

You can use 15 amp receptacles on the load side, but why? 20 amp receptacles are not that expensive.

You could use 20 amp receptacles but why? 15 amp are way cheaper and that is all you need.

 

[lmorsino]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll use 15A outlets because they are like $0.50 whereas the 20A are around $3.50 and I'll never be plugging in a >15A appliance to one of them.

 

[Missouri Bound]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll use 15A outlets because they are like $0.50 whereas the 20A are around $3.50 and I'll never be plugging in a >15A appliance to one of them.

You certainly can use 15 amp outlets, but using the cheapest one you can find is a huge mistake. Get quality outlets, not the 50 cent ones. Are you willing to risk a fire to save a few bucks? Get the best you can afford, with secure wire mounting, such as the clamp type. Don't use the back stab method.

 

[lmorsino]

I did not realize the quality varied all that much. The hardware stores all seem to have the same type of outlet. What are the brands you like to use?

 

[al_smelter]

The OP stated he already had 20 amp GFCI. I would still install 20 amp recepts on the load side (and did in my house). Three bucks apiece is expensive? You can do a heck of a kitchen for less than thirty bucks. And most 20's are better built units as compared with most junk 15's.

I also rarely do 'just enough' to get by. If you're going to improve, then improve.

 

[lmorsino]

Are they truly better made? How do you tell? I'm not questioning that you're right, but its not like there's any meaningful specs printed on the box...

 

[clydesdale]

Are they truly better made? How do you tell? I'm not questioning that you're right, but its not like there's any meaningful specs printed on the box...

IMHO DIY opinion they are made better. They will have stronger plug retention which is important over time in a kitchen as you might find yourself plugging and and unplugging various small appliances (blender, coffee grinder, electric griddle, mixer, etc.) every day. The constant plugging and unplugging will cause a cheaper outlet to need to be replaced sooner.

Also you may want to think about getting tamper-resistant (TR) outlets. Don't know what code cycle you are on and if they would be required but integrated safety is always a good thing.

Also the more expensive outlets will allow you to back-wire or side-wire the outlet. Back-wire is a much more secure way to wire the outlet versus the back-stab method on cheaper outlets.

 

[Hardway]

Are they truly better made? How do you tell? I'm not questioning that you're right, but its not like there's any meaningful specs printed on the box...

If it is UL listed it has to meet a certin spec!

 

[al_smelter]

If it is UL listed it has to meet a certin spec!

True, they must meet a MINIMUM specification to be UL listed. But you will find myriad different quality receptacles. I will not skimp on quality materials, especially in a kitchen or bathroom. Those rooms see more action than any other. Think about it; you [or your spouse] plug your toaster into the same outlet every single day. Probably the same receptacle that you plug the blender into on weekends. And the same one that gets the mixer for the birthday cakes. Cheaper quality stuff will simply wear out faster.

I have two receptacles in my kitchen that get most of the abuse. After replacing two lesser grade outlets [we cook a lot], I finally installed hospital grade receptacles. They were quite pricey, but I haven't replaced them in many years.

Don't skimp in these two rooms.

 

[jbberns]

That is a good opinion. And yes don't get the cheapest receptacle you can find. But 20 amp. hospital grade is going way overboard. 15 amp receptacles are rated for 20 amp feed through also