[JohnyFever]

Hello - I need to attach over a 100 cedar ballisters for my deck railing. The dimmensions of the ballisters are 2" x 2" x 48". I have a framing nailer but I'm almost certain it will split these. I also have a 16ga finishing nailer, but it only accepts 2.5" nails. What is the suggested device for attaching these ? I don't see a lot of 3" finishing nailers that 15/16ga. Just curious how people would do this. Thank you

 

[12penny]

I would say deck screws are probably the norm. May need pre drilling to keep from splitting. Can't say I've ever nailed them. Regardless, stick with coated or stainless steel as HDG will stain the cedar.

Blake

 

[mark sr]

I've stained a lot of decks where the pickets were attached via a nail gun. Sometimes it splits the wood but most of the time it doesn't. Screws are less likely to split the wood and will hold better than nails. Predrilling insures they won't split the wood. A finish nail doesn't have enough holding power to keep the pickets attached long term.

 

[carpdad]

I was reattaching the rails of older deck. Spacing was too wide. They removed easily enough. PT rails. I used a space block, checking the plumb now and then. I didn't try to arrange the spacing for all even rail spaces. I used 2x4 as blocks but I think the code is for 4" space between the rails. I looked for and bought stainless finish nails. I forget which but I have 15ga bostitich and 16ga paslode. I think I used paslode. I think they were just 2". I used the finish nail, one on top and one on bottom, to just hold the rails. This went fast. Then predrill/countersink all at once and screws all at once, 2.5" coated deck screws, 2 screws per side.
I tested the countersink size and used the one that is bit smaller than the screw head. Also just measured the countersink depth by eye. This way, screw heads ended flush to the surface. I applied solid stain to the rails but the screws were coated gray. All woods eventually turn gray so this color screws may be best choice.

 

[taylorfain2009]

I was reattaching the rails of older deck. Spacing was too wide. They removed easily enough. PT rails. I used a space block, checking the plumb now and then. I didn't try to arrange the spacing for all even rail spaces. I used 2x4 as blocks but I think the code is for 4" space between the rails. I looked for and bought stainless finish nails. I forget which but I have 15ga bostitich and 16ga paslode. I think I used paslode. I think they were just 2". I used the finish nail, one on top and one on bottom, to just hold the rails. This went fast. Then predrill/countersink all at once and screws all at once, 2.5" coated deck screws, 2 screws per side.
I tested the countersink size and used the one that is bit smaller than the screw head. Also just measured the countersink depth by eye. This way, screw heads ended flush to the surface. I applied solid stain to the rails but the screws were coated gray. All woods eventually turn gray so this color screws may be best choice.

This is a great idea! Get all your ballisters where they go, tack them up with a trim gun, come back with a GOOD screw. I suggest stainless, or coated. You can get tons of coated screws in different colors.


The more beer I drink the straighter my cuts become

 

[Davejss]

I'd predrill and then use either stainless or coated trim head finish screws.

 

[sestivers]

I've nailed them with galvanized finish nails but always had to pre-drill.


Are they really 2" x 2" cross section? Typically they are 1.5 x 1.5 inches...

 

[Mike Milam]

I predrilled mine (PT) two coated deck screws top and bottom.

 

[Connell Nichola]

I'd predrill and then use either stainless or coated trim head finish screws.

I also use stainless or coated trim head finish screws. It's very useful.

 

[ktownskier]

If you live in a climate that has snow, don't bring the balusters all the way to the deck. Otherwise, you will have no place to push the snow off of the deck.

Just something to consider.

Also, please consider putting your location in your profile. That would help us to answer your questions better.

 

[mark sr]

I've never been fond of balusters that extend down to the rim joist. Besides snow removal it also makes leaf/dirt removal a little harder and IMO it's easier to stain the deck when the pickets are above the decking.

 

[JohnyFever]

Really appreciate the responses and suggestions ! Glad I asked - Happy New Year Everyone !

 

[lenaitch]

If you live in a climate that has snow, don't bring the balusters all the way to the deck. Otherwise, you will have no place to push the snow off of the deck.

Just something to consider.

Also, please consider putting your location in your profile. That would help us to answer your questions better.

There is a house down the street with a deck and typical 2x2 bausters. Every autumn it looks like they would unscrew the bottoms and gather approx 6 or 7 together - sort of like a sunburst pattern. I never spoke to them but can only assume it was for snow removal. Every spring they went back.

 

[de-nagorg]

I built mine with a 4" gap beneath the bottom rail of the balusters.

This gives plenty of room to shove the snow off the deck, and room to sweep trash, leaves, and other junk off.

There's even room for toes, when standing close to the railing. :biggrin2:

And no matter what the store says, the balusters are actually 1.5" x1.5".

Unless you make your own from rough cut lumber.


ED

 

[Johnds89]

Are you use 18 gauge nailer? You can try it for resolve your problem.

 

[mark sr]

Are you use 18 gauge nailer? You can try it for resolve your problem.

How?
finish nails are not the right type of nails for exterior balusters

 

[Drachenfire]

When I re-built my deck (see link below), I attached the nearly 100 balusters by pre-drilled holes and using deck screws.

Yes, it was time consuming and a bit tedious but in two years not one of those balusters have split or come loose.