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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im trying to mount my new fixtures and the *******s that put the old ones up cut a big ass square hole for a round box. Also, because of the way the joists run, I need my new lights to mount to STRUCTURE. The old ones only mounted to structure on one side and on the other they just screwed it into the hardboard. Not cool.

ANyway, this is where my new fixtures are and where they need to be. I need to pigtail out of that box and get around to the inside the fixture. How in the world do I close up that hole? If I need a cover, its going to have to be WELL oversized, by about an inch on all sides, and need to be thin to slide under the fixture. Also, it needs to be friendly to wiring to go through.

What's the solution? I would like this to be to 'code', but if thats going to be a pain in the ass or expensive, then I want to do it to 'whatever looks best and will work safely'.

Thoughts?

I have EIGHT like this.

I can't mount the light over that box and the wires need to come in through the end, so they will at least be partially exposed even when installed. Im ok with this if its OK.



I cant move the fixutre over the hole since its mounted to the side of the structure I need to attach my fixture to.
 

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Licensed Electrician
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A couple toggle bolts will hold that right where you need it to.
 
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Journeyman Wireman
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Could you clarify a couple of things?

Are these lights mounted on the exterior of your house? On a vertical wall or ceiling?

I'm not sure why you can't move the fixture to fully cover the hole. That is typically how lights are installed. They either cover the hole with a housing or the fixture itself.

When you say the fixture needs to be attached to the structure do you mean only to a joist or stud? There are many adequate anchors that would allow your to support the light from the "hardboard".
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
This is on the exterior of my home, under a covered car port. My joists run parallel to the light installed and the light is mounted with TWO single 2" deck screws directly through the housing into the cieling joist.

Are toggle bolts the correct means of anchoring this fixture to the hardi board that's 1/4" thick?

ALSO..these are vaportite fixtures. Can I break open the knockouts in the interior metal portion and drill through the fiberglass housing and put one of those threaded wire 'clamp' things in it and simply caulk it heavily once installed?
 

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Do you have access to the space above the ceiling? If so, you could nail in some blocking between the joists so you can mount the fixture over the hole.
 

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Sparky
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You can either completely cover the box with the light, or not at all. your choice. The way you have it halfway over the box will not work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Putting it further away will put the lights far too close together to light the edges. My only real good option here is to cover the box completely, which is what I want to do. But it will require cutting a hole through my vaportight fixture and using a knockout to gain access to put the wires through. This is OK I assume, provided I caulk the area and return it to its vapor tight status.

If I used conduit and moved the lights, it would require a cover that was big enough for a dual gang old work box, and that would look terrible. Ill look around.
 

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Remove one the the knock out in the back. Use a bushing or close nipple to protect wires. Place light over outlet box mounting with toggle bolts. It's up to you whether you need a vapor tight light. Not required by code in a carport.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That's exactly what Im going to do. The vaportight was partially bought to reduce dust and bugs.

Is it true or not that the humidity is what kills a ballast so that it stops working and lighting a GOOD bulb when its humid out?
 

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" Euro " electrician
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That's exactly what Im going to do. The vaportight was partially bought to reduce dust and bugs.

Is it true or not that the humidity is what kills a ballast so that it stops working and lighting a GOOD bulb when its humid out?
For the humid it depending on the lamp and ballast combation but with vapour tight luminaire as you have there that should not affect much as open luminaires are.

The quickest way to kill the electronic ballast is voltage surge that useally do it in most case then second most common way to kill them is wrong lamps.

There is a other benfit using the vapourtight luminaires is that they can able light up better in cold weather due the lamps are enclosed so it can warm up better than the bare lamps will deal with it.

The other benifts is that you do have some kind of protection as well.

If all the luminaries are outdoor the best thing is use the weather proof junction box as someone posted and use the liquidtight flexiable conduit that useally do it very well.

Merci,
Marc
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Got all 6 of the 8 dual element T5HO fixtures up. They are bright. Like...awesome bright. They replaced aging T12. Seriously, they are sweet. Not sure about the diffuser, its somewhat of an orange peel type, maybe a different one would be better, but at 9' hight, I think its best this way. I can finally see to work on my car and woodworking stuff. Awesome.:thumbsup:

Noticed ONE fixture seemed to have a different ballast in it for some reason, Not sure if that matters. I have extra fixtures since one has a busted diffuser. Any reason to change out that ballast?
 

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Sparky
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ballasts are bought by the railcar load by the factory, from whichever manufacturer was the cheapest when they purchased. Getting different ballast manufacturers is not uncommon in a single fixture type
 

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" Euro " electrician
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Got all 6 of the 8 dual element T5HO fixtures up. They are bright. Like...awesome bright. They replaced aging T12. Seriously, they are sweet. Not sure about the diffuser, its somewhat of an orange peel type, maybe a different one would be better, but at 9' hight, I think its best this way. I can finally see to work on my car and woodworking stuff. Awesome.:thumbsup:

Noticed ONE fixture seemed to have a different ballast in it for some reason, Not sure if that matters. I have extra fixtures since one has a busted diffuser. Any reason to change out that ballast?
Did you read the model number of that luminarie ? if it was the same with other then someone might got that swapped or have differnt verison due there are few luminaires that are wired for 277 volts so that may get your attetion on that part.

Did you get all them from the big box store ? if so if one of them have busted lens then you should deal with that big box store about the damaged lens to see what they can do with it.

Merci,
Marc
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ill just take that fixture back. These came from a box store, and I buy extras because inevitably, ONE is always broken somehow or another. Ill just take it back, no worries.

The fixture with the different ballast is the same as teh rest, but I didn't know if it would make it easier to buy new ballasts in 8 years if they were all the same, or if that will be any problem at all?
 

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Ill just take that fixture back. These came from a box store, and I buy extras because inevitably, ONE is always broken somehow or another. Ill just take it back, no worries.

Cool that will be good.

The fixture with the different ballast is the same as teh rest, but I didn't know if it would make it easier to buy new ballasts in 8 years if they were all the same, or if that will be any problem at all?
Naw don't worry about them right now the T5-HO ballast will become more common as the time go by but just becarefull when you get replacement lamp that only part it will bite ya. It the same way with T-8's or T-12's

Merci,
Marc
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Cool. Ill leave it. I think i know which one it is. Its the one light that comes on about 2 seconds before all the rest, lol.

Out of curiosity, how does one go about buying a ballast? Are all T5HO 54 watt ballasts the same? Do they have some sort of form factor?
 
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