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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
When A/C temps arrive, I'll have to clean the evaporator coil in this air handler, and wondering if a spray can or two, of self-rinsing, foaming cleaner will do the job on a greasy evaporator coil that hasn't been cleaned in a long time.

Looks like that smaller flex line laying on the floor is partially collapsed. Remedy for that? Thread some wire thru the spiral-wound wire inside the top of the duct, then hang it from ceiling?
 

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Cut out the crushed section and put metal in its place, and wrap it with duct wrap.

Evap cleaner in a spray can probably won't do much good. Use a steamer to clean it if its greasy. I use simple green and a steamer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Cut out the crushed section and put metal in its place, and wrap it with duct wrap.

Evap cleaner in a spray can probably won't do much good. Use a steamer to clean it if its greasy. I use simple green and a steamer.
Is this the kind of steamer you use, or is there a less expensive, portable version? Haven't found one online yet.

https://youtu.be/sCqrlE_lPOc?t=265
 

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If the coil is dirty/greasy don't you think the blower wheel might need cleaning as well? I quit trying to clean coils and wheels in place a long time ago. If you really want it clean it needs to be disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
If the coil is dirty/greasy don't you think the blower wheel might need cleaning as well? I quit trying to clean coils and wheels in place a long time ago. If you really want it clean it needs to be disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled.
"...out and to the car wash?" :)

Given the tone of your question, did I say I wasn't going to clean the blower wheel?:boxing:

I actually wrote a couple paragraphs here explaining why the coil and blower wheel won't be removed in this particular case (actually, the blower wheel will be) but then my fingers screwed up somehow and hit the wrong key(s). Bye-bye paragraphs. Usually, I'm in the habit of "saving" my text entry all along the way, since this isn't the first or even second time I've inadvertently deleted my efforts, but not this time! Anyway, if the coil were going to be removed in this case, my partner would have to do that. Explain more later maybe, maybe not.

Thx for your reply.
 

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Shark makes a steamer like Been~s and I have one. However they draw LOTS of power. If you have to use a 100 foot extension cord it better be #12 wire so you don't overload the circuit. Mine has a 1500 w element.

You may want to run some drainer cleaner down the drain when done. If that greasy hot>warm water condenses grease in the drain it can plug.

Or hookup a temp drain with a garden hose or use a bucket.
 

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A couple more observations, the duct is crushed because it lays across the path to crawl back further in the attic plus there is a wire laying across it so to raise it up will require disconnecting it....and if it gets hung will it block access? There isn't a work platform in front of the AHU and it's blocked by that 10" black mobile home flex anyways..? Roof has been leaking due to the refrigerant line penetration and a high voltage wire (no conduit or nuthin) is passing thru the same hole? What a mess! I would try and obtain permission from the owner to start over with new equipment installed safely and correctly.
 

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Make sure you wash the condensor and fix the ducting and then carefully check the freon pressures on a day where it is at least 70F inside and out. I have seen units limping along with dirty evap coils and once you clean them they freezeup if they are low on freon. A clean coil changes the superheat. Has to do with available coil surface to absorb heat and superheat theory and refrigeration principles. Not going to do a sermon/course on that now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Shark makes a steamer like Been~s and I have one. However they draw LOTS of power. If you have to use a 100 foot extension cord it better be #12 wire so you don't overload the circuit. Mine has a 1500 w element.

You may want to run some drainer cleaner down the drain when done. If that greasy hot>warm water condenses grease in the drain it can plug.

Or hookup a temp drain with a garden hose or use a bucket.
Yepper, got 2-each #12, heavy duty 50'-er's with Cooper water-tight connectors. Used to be one 100'-er until I split it up into 2-50'-er's with the water-tight connectors (pics below). Can I assume the two 50's connected together (the connection of the two water-tight connectors) would not reduce the 20A capability of #12 ?

However, one 50'-er will handle this job.
 

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Should work OK unless the prongs/sockets are corroded.

Glad you are using good cords and working safely, especially if the grass is wet.

Read the post above yours as I added info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
A couple more observations, the duct is crushed because it lays across the path to crawl back further in the attic plus there is a wire laying across it so to raise it up will require disconnecting it....and if it gets hung will it block access? There isn't a work platform in front of the AHU and it's blocked by that 10" black mobile home flex anyways..? Roof has been leaking due to the refrigerant line penetration and a high voltage wire (no conduit or nuthin) is passing thru the same hole? What a mess! I would try and obtain permission from the owner to start over with new equipment installed safely and correctly.
Great idea, but suggesting that is not going to happen, and most of the systems I work on are a mess. The deleted paragraphs I mentioned in my previous post explained why it's not going to happen, but not interested in redo-ing those rather long paragraphs right now.

Already have money in the quote for laying down 3/4" plywood planks for working platform.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Most of these Mom and Pop small restaurants don't have the money. Period. Just limping by.
This one's a "Mom"-only :), and she also had to hire me to get her furnace (at home) running to keep her and the kiddies from freezing. Was the most recent post about the chimney blockage (had two prior chimney blockage posts) where flue meets unlined chimney. Hired a chimney sweep, replaced the high limit and pressure switch. Also gave it a thorough cleaning... all has been well since.

A mess, MrWigg? You wanna a see another mess? Pics below are from this same restaurant... haven't worked on it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
This one's a "Mom"-only :), and she also had to hire me to get her furnace (at home) running to keep her and the kiddies from freezing. Was the most recent post about the chimney blockage (had two prior chimney blockage posts) where flue meets unlined chimney. Hired a chimney sweep, replaced the high limit and pressure switch. Also gave it a thorough cleaning... all has been well since.

A mess, MrWigg? You wanna a see another mess? Pics below are from this same restaurant... haven't worked on it yet.
More pics from same restaurant:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I can't see how that install would work at all, unless they are just using it to heat the doorway lol.
Yepper :)

Small 2-room El Salvadoran Taqueria. Told me she didn't even need the furnace during this milder winter we had here. The cooking grille in the kitchen (one of the 2 rooms) was enough to keep the kitchen and the other room (where furnace is located just off of...) warm. The kitchen also has a couple tables and a counter where orders are placed.

Yuri - This your Shark Steamer?
 
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