[mrwrick]

The old house was built in 1909. The bathroom on second floor has two-side tub built into corner. Water feeds (hot and cold) mix and flow through 1 inch pipe that comes out of an American Standard fixture that also houses the overflow. It is a two-piece spigot/overflow collar fixture. Spigot is threaded onto 1 inch pipe; overflow collar fits against tub and spigot tightens up against it to complete the installation.

I have snaked into drain and gotten nowhere beyond 2-3 feet, not enough to clear drain. I have removed spigot from pipe to reveal overflow and snaked down through opening around pipe, only to have the snake head come into tub drain opening. I cannot get 1/4 inch snake to pass beyond the drain tie-in to overflow tube and get into clogged area of drain. I assume there is a T that is where my snake gets stuck, and a U or P trap below somewhere that I cannot get into/through.

Help with a diagram of this feed/drain/overflow configuration will help me figure out if and how I can snake this clogged drain without opening tile walls in bathroom and ceiling downstairs.

Thanks to all you "ancient" plumbers out there who may still have an idea what I am looking for.

 

[diyorpay]

Just a suggestion but maybe you already did it.
When you 'feel' that your snake has reached a turn of some kind, you have to turn/twist the snake clockwise or counterclockwise and, by trial and luck, it may take a different turn and not come up the drain. Versions sold in stores have a lock 'key' so that snake can be wound around. Maybe a vise grip lock on a loose snake would work.

 

[mrwrick]

Thanks, I was at it again today and all I come up with going either down into drain or down into overflow is the snake head ends up at the other place. Takes about 2-1/2 feet of snake. It is a decent snake with can and stiff cable with crawler head.

I really need to find a schematic for the old Standard set-up from the teens, 20's and 30's to see how the drain lines up with tub drain and overflow.

Very frustrating.