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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
OK, got part way into a quarantine project, and found more than I wanted to. Needed to replace the doors on our bathroom sink cabinet, which were old and beat up. Was making some simple shaker replacements. Then I noticed the face frame of the cabinet was beat up from multiple hinge holes, bad paint jobs, etc. So, decided to replace that while I was at it. The toe kick was pretty bad looking, with plenty of caulk to try and make the transition to the floor, so might as well pull that while I'm at it.

Got all that off, and realized the entire cabinet is built out of thin (5mm?) masonite. Found this crap all over the house. The past owner used plenty of glue and some small blocks to try and connect everything. The front face of the cabinet wasn't even touching the counter top, looks like it had sagged away. (In one picture, you can also see that they measured wrong for the counter top and had to cut a slot into the drywall to tuck it into. Sigh.)

Frankly, I'm surprised that this has held up the counter top! The sides and back have some small pieces at the top that are holding up the counter. The back is framed is about 1x1 material, which I'm guessing is providing most of the strength. The middle has a divider which isn't really doing anything other than making the space into 2 sections and giving a place to help hold the floor up (sort of, it's been sagging badly).

So, here I am, trying to figure out what to do, for as little cost as possible, and hopefully not having to pull out the counter top and plumbing, etc. Was thinking of maybe trying to slide new plywood sides (1/2"? 3/4"?) in along the current ones? Or maybe yank out the floors (which are falling out anyway), put some support in for the counter, and then replace the sides? Maybe try and add something across the back as well?

I was originally going to attach something to the subfloor to give me a surface to attach the toe kick to, before I realized what the whole frame was made of. Maybe just build up from the floor to provide the support needed? I know this will not be a traditional cabinet attached to the wall, but trying to figure out the least worst solution.

Or maybe gluing a new face on walking away slowly... Gotta love home ownership!

Please let me know any ideas! Hope these picture make sense (EDIT: pics 1, 3, and 4 should be rotated clockwise 90 degrees). Please excuse the mess. Wife would kill me if she knew I posted pics without cleaning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Decided to pull some of the loose Masonite. Put some 2x4 in as support and the sides started flopping so yanked those. Turns out the back of the cabinet was just drywall that the 1x1 strips were nailed to in order to support the counter. Now I've got it all cleaned out. Plenty of access to the walls if I should start with supports nailed or screwed in there. Thanks!



 

· Naildriver
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You didn't have much of a cabinet to begin with.. Now you have less (well, almost nothing). I would just go ahead, pull the plumbing, countertop and drive a new cabinet under it all, and use the same countertop if you wish.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You didn't have much of a cabinet to begin with.. Now you have less (well, almost nothing). I would just go ahead, pull the plumbing, countertop and drive a new cabinet under it all, and use the same countertop if you wish.
Yeah, now I just have that open-concept floating sink look going on. I'm a little worried about getting the counter top out, since it's recessed into the wall, but I might see if I can wiggle it a little now. Started to think about cutting the counter top down, but I'm guessing that might end badly. Maybe a little trim where it goes into the wall? Always really bugged me.
Also think I need to build rather than buy a vanity since it's 47" and they are all 48". If I went smaller, then the unfinished floor would show, and I'm not ready to take on that whole project. Building will save some $$ as well.
Not done real cabinets before, but I think it's within my abilities.
Thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My mother would have said, " now look what you have done!
Do you want to build it in place?
Yep, wife gave me the look...

I'm thinking that maybe if I build one without a back, I can just slide it in, then add some stretchers across the back at the top to support the counter (or have a cleat on the wall)? Maybe undersize it just a tad then have the face frame cover any gap? Then plenty of caulk and paint to try and make things look respectable. At least I have plenty of time these days!
Thanks for the help!
 

· retired framer
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Yep, wife gave me the look...

I'm thinking that maybe if I build one without a back, I can just slide it in, then add some stretchers across the back at the top to support the counter (or have a cleat on the wall)? Maybe undersize it just a tad then have the face frame cover any gap? Then plenty of caulk and paint to try and make things look respectable. At least I have plenty of time these days!
Thanks for the help!
Screw a 2x4 to the back wall level under the counter.

Cut 3 ends, measure what you took out.

notch the back to fit around the 2x4.

Notch the front top for a 3/4 x2 on the flat.

Make the bottom kick 3 1/2" high so once installed you can build a 2x4 frame to hold the floor up.
If you don't have little corner braces to join everything together cut some 3/4 x3/4 stock that you can pre drill both ways for screws.

Carefully cut the floors to fit, not likely to be square.

Build your face frame just a little big so you can shape it to fit the wall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Screw a 2x4 to the back wall level under the counter.

Cut 3 ends, measure what you took out.

notch the back to fit around the 2x4.

Notch the front top for a 3/4 x2 on the flat.

Make the bottom kick 3 1/2" high so once installed you can build a 2x4 frame to hold the floor up.
If you don't have little corner braces to join everything together cut some 3/4 x3/4 stock that you can pre drill both ways for screws.

Carefully cut the floors to fit, not likely to be square.

Build your face frame just a little big so you can shape it to fit the wall.

Thanks, that's about what I was thinking. I was going to use 1x4s under the counter on the sides and back screwed to the studs as support. But I can switch to a 2x4 on the back for extra support. Was going to use the 1 x4 on the side so that I can work under there with the counter fully supported. I think 1x4 on the ends should be able to carry the weight.
Nothing is square or level so I was worried about trying to get the ends the right size to support the top. That's why I was going to use the supports to actually holds the counter up, then the cabinet could be a little smaller to slide in.
So on the sides under the counter would have a 3/4 wide 1x4, then the 3/4 plywood, total of 1 1/2", then with a 1x3 face to cover all the gaps.
Hope this makes some sense!
 

· retired framer
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Thanks, that's about what I was thinking. I was going to use 1x4s under the counter on the sides and back screwed to the studs as support. But I can switch to a 2x4 on the back for extra support. Was going to use the 1 x4 on the side so that I can work under there with the counter fully supported. I think 1x4 on the ends should be able to carry the weight.
Nothing is square or level so I was worried about trying to get the ends the right size to support the top. That's why I was going to use the supports to actually holds the counter up, then the cabinet could be a little smaller to slide in.
So on the sides under the counter would have a 3/4 wide 1x4, then the 3/4 plywood, total of 1 1/2", then with a 1x3 face to cover all the gaps.
Hope this makes some sense!
Sure, that works :biggrin2:
 
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