[mystiky2]

I am not Mr. Golden hands, but I need to replace a leaking radiator valve for my steam-based heating system.

I was able to remove the baseboard from the radiator valve (using Slant/Fin MultiPak 80), but I am having a problem removing the bottom of the radiator valve from the riser. I am using 2 large plumbing wrenches but I just can't get it to move so I can unscrew it. Attached below are two photos. On one of them, I have drawn up numbers so you or I can reference with comments.

What I have done is just put some WD-40 in between Nos. 2 & 3, as that's where I assume the thread is stuck. Or am I wrong?

I have been clamping the bottom wrench on No. 1 and trying to turn (counter-clock-wise) the brass-colored part of the valve by griping with the top wrench at Nos. 3 or 4. I assume No. 2 is part of the riser and should stay on it? Or am I mistaken?

Does anyone have any other suggestions besides me applying the WD-40 for overnight, to see if it somehow loosens this up?Thank you all for any and all input.

 

[KC_Jones]

Couple questions before you go much further.

First, what exactly is leaking, or where is it leaking?
Second, valves need to have the spud in the radiator replaced at the same time as the valve, they are usually a matched set and one may not work with another. That's why new valves come with the spud.

If the leak is at the stem you may just be able to tighten the packing a bit and done, if that doesn't work repacking a valve is fairly easy, IMHO easier than replacing the valve properly.

If you are set on valve replacement, then the question is, what size pipe wrenches are you using? I would suggest that you need 24" at minimum. If you have something smaller you need to put a piece of pipe over the handle to extend and get much more leverage.

BTW I ask about the leaking and such because that valve doesn't look that old. I have 100 year old valves on my system and for a couple bucks repacked them all and they are fine.

 

[mystiky2]

couple questions before you go much further.

First, what exactly is leaking, or where is it leaking?
Second, valves need to have the spud in the radiator replaced at the same time as the valve, they are usually a matched set and one may not work with another. That's why new valves come with the spud.

If the leak is at the stem you may just be able to tighten the packing a bit and done, if that doesn't work repacking a valve is fairly easy, imho easier than replacing the valve properly.

If you are set on valve replacement, then the question is, what size pipe wrenches are you using? I would suggest that you need 24" at minimum. If you have something smaller you need to put a piece of pipe over the handle to extend and get much more leverage.

Thanks for replying. I am using 18" wrenches. I also have a 14" that has a custom made 12" extender pipe.

It is definitely leaking, as shown in the attached photo. One can hear it hiss from there and see little water droplets come out. As you can see, it's in the at a spot that requires a full replacement of the radiator valve.



Btw i ask about the leaking and such because that valve doesn't look that old. I have 100 year old valves on my system and for a couple bucks repacked them all and they are fine.

 

[KC_Jones]

If it's leaking from there, that is definitely not the packing.

Looks like you are back on the replacement path. Don't forget to replace the spud or you may have a new leak to deal with.

As far as where to grab it, grab the valve at #3 and the pipe at #2. If you can't get the wrenches close enough to grab at those locations, you could to to #3 and #1, the valve should come loose long before that bushing.

Again you will need more leverage to break that loose. Either longer wrench or cheater pipes on the handles.

 

[de-nagorg]

You turn the square top of the valve to disassemble the valve ( system shut down please), and get new seals, and packing for it, and replace them, simple operation.

Or heat the valve and use bigger wrenches. to replace it.


ED

 

[mystiky2]

If it's leaking from there, that is definitely not the packing.

Looks like you are back on the replacement path. Don't forget to replace the spud or you may have a new leak to deal with.

As far as where to grab it, grab the valve at #3 and the pipe at #2. If you can't get the wrenches close enough to grab at those locations, you could to to #3 and #1, the valve should come loose long before that bushing.

Again you will need more leverage to break that loose. Either longer wrench or cheater pipes on the handles.

Thank you. I will try again tomorrow. Hopefully WD40 will help a bit overnight.

And just to make sure, I am going COUNTER CLOCK WISE (left to right) when I try to unscrew it (at #3), and keep the bottom (either at #2 or #1) either steady or in the opposite direction of #3.

 

[de-nagorg]

Thank you. I will try again tomorrow. Hopefully WD40 will help a bit overnight.

And just to make sure, I am going COUNTER CLOCK WISE (left to right) when I try to unscrew it (at #3), and keep the bottom (either at #2 or #1) either steady or in the opposite direction of #3.

That is the proper rotation for removal.

While waiting, go get 2 - 4' long 1.5" steel pipes from the hardware store
( BOX store ) to slip over the handles of your pipe wrenches.

This will give you LEVERAGE, to easier break the hold of the joint.


ED

 

[mystiky2]

Just wanted to let you and any others that may come across this subject that until I had a friend who came over with a blow-torch to heat the pipes, there was just no way to separate (remove) the valve. Once the blow-torch was used, it came off like butter.

Thank you all again for all the help.

 

[ct18]

Imagine rowing a boat. Your feet hold the hold back wrench, and you row with the loosen wrench. Thats when the cheater pipes will help

 

[SeniorSitizen]

Now you've learned a new skill. Penetrating juice of any kind is usually of no value but penetrating with heat used in the right location, and often location is critical, is a good thing.



If there is a possibility a valve is to be re-built, i don't recommend a pipe wrench ever be put on the valve at #3 location. That's what the hex at #4 is for.