[RickDel]

I'm trying to install gas struts on my CNC enclosure rear hatch. I initially installed a set that wasn't large enough, so I bought a larger set However, unlike my first set, these have no instructions for bracket install locations.

I have researched and can't find the answer. PLEASE, can someone give me a dumbed down explanation on how to install these. Where to place the bracket.

The Open Length: 20 inches; compressed 12 inches; Stroke Length: 8 inches; Force: per 20 pound，set 40 pound

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YHY7S36/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My door/hatch is 32" long and weights approx 15lbs.

Here's a pic of my old set I installed and pics of the new ones I'm trying to install.

Any help is GREATLY appeciated!! - Rick

 

[Nealtw]

This is what comes to mind.

 

[huesmann]

What is the open length, and the closed length of your struts?

 

[SPS-1]

The key is to consider that the opening force is increased with increasing distance to the hinge. The key is selecting the two mounting points. I suggest you get some grid paper and sketch it to scale. And remember that you don't have to compress the strut all the way to minimum length.

See sketch below. When the force is square to the lid, that is when you are getting maximum force, and the further you put your rod mounting point from the hinge, the more torque you get on the lid.

In the sketch on the right, the distance to the hinge is small and you get little force from the hinge. If you move the location of the strut mounting points a little more, so that the force is pointing directly at the hinge, the effective force from the strut is zero.

You might want the lid to stay open once opened, or you might just want some counterbalance. You probably want very little force when the lid is closed, so the strut would then be pointing at the hinge. This might require putting the fixed bracket at an inconvenient location --- such as a little in front of the box (but anything is possible if you try hard enough).

 

[HandyAndyInNC]

Forget about using a gas strut that is not designed for that type of lift.
Use a cabinet vertical lift strut. That is what I used for my CNC and Laser cutting machine cabinets. My cabinet doors on the end are 60 inches wide on each cabinet. I built mine just for the sound deadening. I can raise the doors with a single finger. Keeps more room around and above the cabinets, even though I have 16 foot ceilings in my workshop. I ordered the up and over style to have lift room of up to 31 inches.

 

[SPS-1]

Here are a couple of ideas that might help, if I understand correctly what you are doing.

These two geometries will positively push the lid closed, when it is lowered. As previously mentioned, the key is to select where you put the two ends of the strut. Sometimes you have to pick where you wish the mounts were located, and then build the extra brackets to make it happen.

 

[RickDel]

Thanks guys....

SPS-1 and HandyAndyinNC, it looks like I'm trying to use the wrong tool for job. Instead of building an extended bracket, I may just look into the style HandyAndyisNC is recommending. Only wish I knew this before buying four different styles and wasting $100!

Thanks

 

[RickDel]

Forget about using a gas strut that is not designed for that type of lift.
Use a cabinet vertical lift strut. That is what I used for my CNC and Laser cutting machine cabinets. My cabinet doors on the end are 60 inches wide on each cabinet. I built mine just for the sound deadening. I can raise the doors with a single finger. Keeps more room around and above the cabinets, even though I have 16 foot ceilings in my workshop. I ordered the up and over style to have lift room of up to 31 inches.

Do you remember which ones you used? Thanks

 

[HandyAndyInNC]

There are many on the market. You will have to give the site your dimensions and weights and it will tell you the model number you will need.