Why are you reading Resistance? No one reads resistance when working on electrical circuits, to install new outlets, switches or fixtures. As long as you have connected everything correctly, just flip on the breaker and move on to the next project.
[U]Expected[/U] [U]Seeing[/U]
H to N Infinite 10 ohms
H to G Infinite 18 ohms
N to G 0 ohms 9 ohms
Initially I was just checking continuity, as a sanity check. I only expected continuity between neutral and ground and was surprised when it showed continuity between H-N and H-G. I was concerned that continuity between the latter two indicated a possibly serious wiring problem (leakage, short, bad connection at panel). If it doesn't then I'm very glad to hear that, though I'd at least like to understand why.Why are you reading Resistance? No one reads resistance when working on electrical circuits, to install new outlets, switches or fixtures. As long as you have connected everything correctly, just flip on the breaker and move on to the next project.
Overkill. All that you need to do is to connect, go flip back on the breaker and then check to make sure that it tests and resets. If you want to check to make sure it has voltage, if not resetting, you would have to place your meter in 200 vAC mode and then check Red lead to Black, Black lead to White.Initially I was just checking continuity, as a sanity check. I only expected continuity between neutral and ground and was surprised when it showed continuity between H-N and H-G. I was concerned that continuity between the latter two indicated a possibly serious wiring problem (leakage, short, bad connection at panel). If it doesn't then I'm very glad to hear that, though I'd at least like to understand why.
AHA! So even though the circuit power was off, and even though they were all turned off, things such as light bulbs and appliances can still add a load to the circuit, and add resistance to the circuit? I hope I understand now. Anyway, I just physically disconnected everything from that circuit that I could, and re-tested, and sure enough, hot to neutral and hot to ground now read infinite resistance. It turned out to be two particular places where things had been plugged in: A light bridge with six CFLs, and a multi-receptacle surge protector with a phone, answering machine, and fan plugged into it. So it now looks safe for me to continue. Thank you.The hot to neutral reading could be light bulbs or appliances still plugged into the circuit.
ActuallyWhy are you reading Resistance? No one reads resistance when working on electrical circuits, to install new outlets, switches or fixtures. As long as you have connected everything correctly, just flip on the breaker and move on to the next project.
Incorrect. No one has a need to check resistance when putting in switches, outlets, lights, etc.. MegOhm tests would not do anything for the homeowner. They are rarely done, unless it is by a utility when they are checking their service lines for problems.Actually
Everyone SHOULD BE reading resistance and the USA is behind the ball on this.
In commercial installations we perform insulation resistance test all the time (aka MEGGER, typical test voltage 1000 VDC).
To the OP as noted by others you are most likely reading through some equipment connected to the circuit.
If the resistance was that low at 9 VDC (test voltage of your meter) you would trip the GFCI when it is connected, heck your should have tripped the CB if the low resistance was not from a piece of equipment.
And there sir you show your total lack of understanding of electrical testing and safe wiring practices.Incorrect. No one has a need to check resistance when putting in switches, outlets, lights, etc.. MegOhm tests would not do anything for the homeowner. They are rarely done, unless it is by a utility when they are checking their service lines for problems.
Even we never did MegOhm tests, unless it was a piece of equipment or Shorepower cables, which only the E1 did, because if he screwed up, he was the only one answering to the higher ups.
Or you could wait for it to go bangI like using resistance to test ckt's....especially new ckt's.
You can do it without power...
And it's a fast way to 'measure' the health of a line.
I don't like 'bangs'......especially in my directionOr you could wait for it to go bang
You must turn off power before doing resistance/continuity checks, otherwise you will blow out the meter.You can do it without power.
Is that a helpful hint or based on experience?:surprise:You must turn off power before doing resistance/continuity checks, otherwise you will blow out the meter.
Unless you have a Fluke....You must turn off power before doing resistance/continuity checks, otherwise you will blow out the meter.