DIY Home Improvement Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi All,

I'm hanging a projector screen in-ceiling and have already cut the hole. I've left the ceiling supports as-is until i can fortify them before making the cuts. Images here:

https://imgur.com/a/QXFFMlq

My question is, I'm planning on running 2 6x2x20" supports to support the central post (the one that has double 2x8's) as it appears to be a prime load bearing point (central to the ceiling), and the other 2x8 with a single 6x2x20" support which will be tied to the subflooring above, just as it is done at the edge of the ceiling.

I have a tight gap - at 6" to work with. My question is what hardware should i use to connect these 6x2x20" beams to the subflooring above?

I have observed that the supports in place from old work use the same support beams of 6x2x20" and to the subflooring panels above they just drove in 2 nails (what type of nails should i use for this?).

As i have no space to work here, i was thinking of getting a metal T bracket and flush mounting the bottom of the 6x2x20" support to the top of the subflooring runner as i can't possibly reach to the other side to drive in a nail or screw from that angle.

I would appreciate some expert advice here. Am i on the right track? or is there a better idea?

Thanks in advance!
 

·
Naildriver
Joined
·
11,846 Posts
Most ceilings to floors below are just attached to the joists of the second floor. What type ceiling is this? What is the total unsupported span of those 2x4's running parallel to your screen installation? It seems a bit long.

What you are proposing is feasible depending on the type of construction of the ceiling.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Here's what it looks like length wise in the ceiling. I'm going the "good way" - with the runners, though you can see that the double support at my point of contention is the central beam that runs the length of the room in the middle:

https://imgur.com/a/8Ta0JVV

So how do i best support this cut?

And what type of hardware should i use to do it?

now that i'm looking at these pics, i dont think supporting cross wise is good enough. I think i need to take a support straight up to the subflooring from that central un-cut member to the subflooring as it looks like a pretty important crossbeam...

Looking for some solid suggestions here.
 

·
retired framer
Joined
·
43,003 Posts

Simson's have straps like this in what ever length you need

Just bend them and twist or even cut them to fit and fill every available hole with a construction screw.



 

·
retired framer
Joined
·
43,003 Posts
The short blocks are pressure blocks here. If you can add a few screws before you cut.
See the 2 black areas for screws.

After you have cut, screw thru the one on the right into the block behind it.
Pressure blocks are used instead of hangers and as they only did one side with them I would install straps on both sides so 4 straps.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
So i ran the changes as suggested... I put 2 straps on either side surrounding each of the 2 supports (8 straps in total). 2 near my ceiling edge, and 2 on either side of each cross beam i am planning to cut.

I also drove in 4 2 1/2" construction screws as suggested to the pressure blocks (see pics).

From the pics here, am i good to make the cuts now? I'm a bit nervous to cut as the double 2x6" is the central support beam for the ceiling. Will these straps i added be enough to support that weight?

I was also considering adding one more strap directly to the 2x6" after i cut it to secure that as well to the subflooring. Is that overkill?

See pics here:


https://imgur.com/a/qbd0s0G
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Hi all,

making the cuts in a few hours and wondered if anyone could review and let me know if i'm safe to do it?

Thanks!
 

·
retired framer
Joined
·
43,003 Posts
Hi all,

making the cuts in a few hours and wondered if anyone could review and let me know if i'm safe to do it?

Thanks!
I would have made the bends in the one on the left a little closer to the wood but other than that I think you are good. After you cut it you can test it for movement, if it does move just put another tighter one in.

 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top