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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just finished tiling and grouting the bathroom with glass tile. I've got trim boards running around the room above the glass tile. I also have trim that the tile runs into as well as the baseboard.

Since the trim it is made out of wood, do you caulk or put grout in between the trim board and tile at the top? I'm worried about expansion and contraction cracking the grout.

I also need to drill a few holes in order to mount my mirror and towel holder. I do have a glass drill bit however I'm curious what would be the best anchoring method? I purchased toggle bolts as well as the standard drywall anchors. However between the thickness of the cement board which is half an inch plus the thinset and glass tile I was curious what would work better? My instinct was the toggle bolt since as you screw and it would draw in the clamps against the back side of the wall. But I don't want to screw anything up. Any suggestions?
 

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· Naildriver
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Use an elastomeric caulk, such as Big Stretch or others to prevent cracking. It will expand and contract a good bit. As far as hanging things, you only get one shot at it, so go slow. Using toggles will probably be best, but you will need to drill large enough holes for the toggle to pass through. What kind of weight are you talking about? Remember for mirrors and the like, it is all vertical weight, so little pull out will occur. Check into EZ toggles. They have a smaller hole profile and do the same thing that regular toggles do, and will hold up to 90 pounds or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Use an elastomeric caulk, such as Big Stretch or others to prevent cracking. It will expand and contract a good bit. As far as hanging things, you only get one shot at it, so go slow. Using toggles will probably be best, but you will need to drill large enough holes for the toggle to pass through. What kind of weight are you talking about? Remember for mirrors and the like, it is all vertical weight, so little pull out will occur. Check into EZ toggles. They have a smaller hole profile and do the same thing that regular toggles do, and will hold up to 90 pounds or so.
The grout color I used was a specific color made by proma. It is a minty blue which is kind of hard to tell from the photo. They make a matching caulk which is what I thought it was going to be better to use. No?

When you say vertical weight will cause little pull out does that mean there's going to be some pressure on the back of the tile or cement board that could make them pop? I don't think the mirror ways that much. 9.65 pounds all together with the brackets. The brackets themselves are fairly heavy. Glass is 5mm thick. I will post a photo below. Would I benefit at all by Drilling in an area where I'm going partially through the grout line? Or would that be giving me a greater chance of cracking the glass? The holes that I need to drill for the toggles are about 3/8". Grout lines are 1/8"
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Your grout appears to be white, why not just use a white silicone caulk? Will stay flexible, and waterproof.
it's not white however. The caulk that they sent me that was supposed to match is more like a white color. Remember photos don't translate the same on different people's computers or telephones. If you were to see it up close it looks absolutely horrible. I just picked up some Mapei siliconized caulk that I'm going to try to color match
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
A bit off topic but that wood trim looks fantastic. Did you finish it yourself or is it prefinished?
Thank you. I did it myself. I took 1 by 6 Poplar and put a base coat of flat paint. An orange brown tone. I think it was called chocolate sauce. And then I took a mahogany gel stain and brushed that on top of it with a foam brush and worked the grainlook in as it tacked up. you have to wait about six days for that to set up because it is sitting on top of paint. So it has to air dry outwards. And then I put two coats of polyurethane on it
 
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