Need Advice and guidance. (PICS)

The only thing I have heard people comment on is noise from the ducts
If any wood/stuf hits the metal there will be vibration
Very hard to fix once sheetrock is up
Just a heads up

The soffit is about 1 inch away from the duct. Hard to see from picture. But is the soffit built correctly ?

Soffit looks okay, but why is there so much space on either side of the patio door? The rough opening looks like you can fit another 2x4 on each side. The space should resemble the top of the patio door, about 1/2-3/4".
I don't see any fasteners attaching the 2x4s of the soffit to the floor joists. What did you use?
Ron

It looks great. Did you spray foam the rim joists before putting the fiberglass insulation in the bays?

Another thing. You'll want to tape all the seams in your duct work before drywalling.

You also might want to wrap your hot and cold water pipes with foam.

Stop the fire: http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-fireblock-framing-37190/

I'd replace the insulation batts with rigid foam board and pull that v.b., at least below grade if in a cold area.

http://www.buildingscience.com/docu...rol-for-new-residential-buildings?full_view=1

Now you may need an outside air supply to your gas units (now enclosed), check with your building department. They also will give safety info on bedroom egress. It will also go on your County record as completed living space, if you ever sell. Be safe, G

im not sure what you mean by spray foam the rim joists. I must not have done that. What do i need to do ?
i believe she means using Great Stuff foam to seal any possible air leaks.
What kind of foam do i need to use ?
any lowes or menards will sell foam 'noodles' that are splittable up one edge to slip over your hot/cold water lines.
What is the insulation Batts and what does v.b stand for?
batts are just pink fibreglass insulation sheets. v.b. stands for vapor barrier.

DM

The first pic & last pic show the framing under the heat run (trunk) differently? If it were me, I think I would add blocking between all the 2x3's that run horizontally under the ductwork so you have enough material to fasten the drywall to. I've also seen quite a few carpenters frame out the ductwork with OSB before, which you could easily add yet. I'm nat sure why, but it may help with sound, & is the lightest way to frame around ductwork?

We are replacing the siding of our house with hardi plank. The first couple of sides got done and locally we were told to take off the siding and wrap the house and then put the hardi plank up. Finding dry rot on a corner of the house and calling a contractor he said that we should not have taken down the old house siding but just put the hardi board over the top. We have the last 1/4 to do, Whatare your suggestions?

mary zins said:

We are replacing the siding of our house with hardi plank. The first couple of sides got done and locally we were told to take off the siding and wrap the house and then put the hardi plank up. Finding dry rot on a corner of the house and calling a contractor he said that we should not have taken down the old house siding but just put the hardi board over the top. We have the last 1/4 to do, Whatare your suggestions?

Click to expand...

You need to start your own subject post on this.
Ron

On the soffit in the first picture, you need solid framing across the bottom to nail/screw the drywall and corner bead. Add blocks between the bottom ceiling nailers. If you use "mud on" corner bead, you could get away with what you have by nailing your drywall to the continuous 2"x4" on the bottom every 16", minimum (looks like you framed 24" on center??). Also those bottom 2"x4" running flat are prone to sag as long as they are from the weight of the drywall. If you have room between the ducts, I'd run supports from your nailers to the actual floor joists if you possibly can. As noted above, I'd add blocking on the sides of the double door. Rest looks good....

First picture: Like bjatlanta said: I would have toe-nailed the studs under the ductwork to the inside edge of your vertical "wall". Would help with corner beading and edge sag.
Take pictures before you drywall so you can find things after it is up.

Thanks for the reply and helps guys.

1.
you need solid framing across the bottom to nail/screw the drywall and corner bead. Add blocks between the bottom ceiling nailers

Q.
So will the inspector fail my soffit built ? or can i just use it the way it is>

2.
Also those bottom 2"x4" running flat are prone to sag as long as they are from the weight of the drywall.

Q. I'm thinking of giving support in the middle of the ducts. if i dont do that how much would it sag and will it sag in the long run ?