My Samsung Washer will not Drain
My washer will not drain, I have just purchased new pump and replaced it still not working and pump is not returnable ($105.00 grrrrrrrrr). The washer fills up with water and spins but the water will not drain, my model number is WF206ANS/XAC. Is there anything else i can check, im guessing its electrical. The washer is a front loader and i have looked at previous posts and utube videos and cant find electrical diagram to check wiring harness for the pump, i do have meter but not sure how or where to connect leads. The wires are all interconnected in one big sleeve and branch out to various areas.
What really bothers me is there was only 1 code error (DN) in the manual it states drain error.
any help would be appreciated
What really bothers me is there was only 1 code error (DN) in the manual it states drain error.
any help would be appreciated
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
I already was at this site, did not help my situation...but thanks for reply.
Is the drain pump running at all? what kind of connector is on the pump? I would check for voltage at the pump while it's draining.
The drain pump is not working at all, and its a brand new pump.Protocol. said:Is the drain pump running at all? what kind of connector is on the pump? I would check for voltage at the pump while it's draining.
How do I check power to the pump, it has plug in connector.pandorasoem1 said:Is your drain pump working? I think there may be some power supply distribution problem. Check the voltage.
http://support-us.samsung.com/cyber/popup/iframe/pop_troubleshooting_fr.jsp?idx=346128&modelname=WF219ANB&modelcode=&session_id=Nnf6mcrzhTr5Lzc2dJG2FBdMD11tW5YCw5Yymy2PLVw2GLhNxvJL!-944161233!1761676444!7501!-1!640189940!1761676348!7501!-1!1294884794885
I think this will help your problem. if this link is not helpful you then have a look at your user manual.
unplug the pump and attach a multimeter to the supply plug. Make sure the washer is in the drain cycle, when testing.
I will test the wire going to the pump this weekend, will I get electrocuted? What do I set the multimeter at ex: AC V 150 or 300 or 750
Please excuse my ignorance as I just started using multimeter.
Please excuse my ignorance as I just started using multimeter.
I am going to assume that before you replaced the pump that you checked to make sure the pump filter was not plugged??
My machine is older and does not have filter but yes removed all hoses and checked for blockage, the pump is not even coming on during drain cycle. No sound at all.hardwareman said:I am going to assume that before you replaced the pump that you checked to make sure the pump filter was not plugged??
ok, just looked up your model. That is an old one. First to make you feel worse you overpaid by about $30.00 for that pump, second the only way to find the problem is to get machine into the drain cycle and check voltage to pump. You should have 120 volts going to pump. Unhook the plug from the pump and check voltage. I would have to guess that if you have no voltage there then you have a bad control board.
Well I figured out it is a wiring issue, pump is not getting sufficient power to operate.
Never ran into power to the pump problem. My guess is and ran into alot of them with this pump is quaters get through the pump and lodge into the drain hose side of the pump and the flow of water turns the quater sideways in the drain hose blocks water from draining. Make sure you take a flash light and look up in the drain hose. As a former authorized servicer never ran into power to the pump always fob in drain line or pump.
At my properties I have mainly worked with Unimac washers, but it sounds very similar to a problem I was having with one of the washers. The problem I had was there was a wire that was cut inside of a cable harness mounted onto the frame that made it hard to spot. It was for the balancing sensor, so with it out of commission the washer would run, but wouldn't go through the final rinse cycle which left all this access water in the drum. I would check continuity on all the wire's to and from your sensors to start.
This pump is wired to the main board look at your wiring diagram to see were its at on the board and you can check for power there. If the water level switch dont drop out to let the machine know it has drained its going to shut down. If you put the washer in drain spin mode you dont need a meter to check it If it has power you will here it or you can feel the pump running thats why I suggested you check for coins.
Well, I checked the pump during spin cycle with multimeter and no power to pump checked hoses no blockage, while doing this I jiggled all the wires going to the pump lol. Tried spin cycle one more time and pump started for about 2 seconds and sprayed water all over the place (stop laughing) so I'm guessing it is indeed the power to the pump, going to unwrap the wiring harness and see if any wires are loose. I will let you know my results.
Cheers
Ps if that don't work I'm off to buy a new top load washer, I hate front loaders!
Cheers
Ps if that don't work I'm off to buy a new top load washer, I hate front loaders!
Depending of the prices of your service tech's in the area, it still might benefit you to have him come out to diagnose the problem and take care of the repair yourself. Unless, you wanted to purchase a new washer in the first place haha.
I checked for continuity and all is fine so the problem has to be the mother board, control panel.HandymanCA said:At my properties I have mainly worked with Unimac washers, but it sounds very similar to a problem I was having with one of the washers. The problem I had was there was a wire that was cut inside of a cable harness mounted onto the frame that made it hard to spot. It was for the balancing sensor, so with it out of commission the washer would run, but wouldn't go through the final rinse cycle which left all this access water in the drum. I would check continuity on all the wire's to and from your sensors to start.
Before you replace the main control board on a Samsung washer for "nd" error code
I have a Samsung front-loader (Model WF337AAW/XAA, 8 years old) that would intermittently not drain the water prior to the spin cycle, generating the "nd" error code each time. The problem occurred more frequently over a period of a week or so, and finally the washer stopped draining altogether. I first checked the drain pump / lines for clogs, etc. but found nothing, and as noted, it was working intermittently. I used the schematic on the washer (visible after I removed the top panel) to find the connections on the main control board that send power to the drain pump, put a multi-meter on the connections and started the spin cycle, but it read 0 volts (should be 120V to the drain pump).
Figuring it had to be "the board", I luckily found someone with a used board, same part number, for cheap on eBay, so ordered and installed it. That board allowed my washer to drain (!!) prior to the spin cycle, but the eBay board had a different problem that wouldn't allow the washer to spin up. No matter, now I knew my control board was definitely the problem, so took a closer look at it. Saw a row of 8 relays on the board, one of which is clearly labeled "drain pump". A failed relay (which is just an electrically powered switch) would definitely explain the symptoms, but how to replace it? All the parts on the board are swimming in 1/4" or so of hardened silicone sealant.
At this point, most anyone would just get a new board, but no local shops where I live had one in stock, and the online prices were around $250 for the board. Besides, I hate waiting, I love fixing things, and I had a "spare" board with a whole row of relays, most of which were probably good. I just had to figure out how to get past that silicone goop.
The main board and the display board are mounted in a plastic housing, back to back. And no WAY was that control board coming out of the housing; Samsung and silicone sealant had seen to that! Instead, I first removed the display board (held in place only by several plastic tabs), so now the housing (and of course, more silicone) was all that was in my way. After measuring and marking the approximate location of the row of relays on the back of the housing, I *carefully* Dremel-ed off a section of the housing, and pried it free from the silicone. Now I used a pencil-sized, pointed wooden dowel to cut through the silicone around the row of relays, front and back side, pulling the silicone off as I went, and finally used a small stiff plastic brush to remove as much of the remaining silicone as possible from the back side (soldered side) of the board.
I used a 12V power source and multi-meter to test the drain pump relay. Sure enough, no circuit was created on the load side of the relay when 12V was applied to the coil side. I checked all the other relays, and they were working fine. I HAD FOUND IT!! Feeling very confident now, I repeated the board surgery on the spare board, so I could get at those relays also. I used a soldering gun and soldering wick to free one relay, and carefully removed it from the control board. Cleaned off the remaining silicone sealant, fluxed and soldered it back into my original board, replaced the display board, and re-installed into my Sammy front-loader. Powered it back up, and miracle of miracles! I have a washing machine that works perfectly again!
So, not a repair for everyone (you'd need to have access to and be comfortable with a Dremel and soldering/de-soldering equipment), but it's totally do-able. If your washer won't drain, displays "nd" error code, and you're sure it's the board, this is an option. I Google'd the part number on the relays (F&T F3AA012E), and there were a couple of U.S.-based sources for purchasing them for less than $10/each.
I have a Samsung front-loader (Model WF337AAW/XAA, 8 years old) that would intermittently not drain the water prior to the spin cycle, generating the "nd" error code each time. The problem occurred more frequently over a period of a week or so, and finally the washer stopped draining altogether. I first checked the drain pump / lines for clogs, etc. but found nothing, and as noted, it was working intermittently. I used the schematic on the washer (visible after I removed the top panel) to find the connections on the main control board that send power to the drain pump, put a multi-meter on the connections and started the spin cycle, but it read 0 volts (should be 120V to the drain pump).
Figuring it had to be "the board", I luckily found someone with a used board, same part number, for cheap on eBay, so ordered and installed it. That board allowed my washer to drain (!!) prior to the spin cycle, but the eBay board had a different problem that wouldn't allow the washer to spin up. No matter, now I knew my control board was definitely the problem, so took a closer look at it. Saw a row of 8 relays on the board, one of which is clearly labeled "drain pump". A failed relay (which is just an electrically powered switch) would definitely explain the symptoms, but how to replace it? All the parts on the board are swimming in 1/4" or so of hardened silicone sealant.
At this point, most anyone would just get a new board, but no local shops where I live had one in stock, and the online prices were around $250 for the board. Besides, I hate waiting, I love fixing things, and I had a "spare" board with a whole row of relays, most of which were probably good. I just had to figure out how to get past that silicone goop.
The main board and the display board are mounted in a plastic housing, back to back. And no WAY was that control board coming out of the housing; Samsung and silicone sealant had seen to that! Instead, I first removed the display board (held in place only by several plastic tabs), so now the housing (and of course, more silicone) was all that was in my way. After measuring and marking the approximate location of the row of relays on the back of the housing, I *carefully* Dremel-ed off a section of the housing, and pried it free from the silicone. Now I used a pencil-sized, pointed wooden dowel to cut through the silicone around the row of relays, front and back side, pulling the silicone off as I went, and finally used a small stiff plastic brush to remove as much of the remaining silicone as possible from the back side (soldered side) of the board.
I used a 12V power source and multi-meter to test the drain pump relay. Sure enough, no circuit was created on the load side of the relay when 12V was applied to the coil side. I checked all the other relays, and they were working fine. I HAD FOUND IT!! Feeling very confident now, I repeated the board surgery on the spare board, so I could get at those relays also. I used a soldering gun and soldering wick to free one relay, and carefully removed it from the control board. Cleaned off the remaining silicone sealant, fluxed and soldered it back into my original board, replaced the display board, and re-installed into my Sammy front-loader. Powered it back up, and miracle of miracles! I have a washing machine that works perfectly again!
So, not a repair for everyone (you'd need to have access to and be comfortable with a Dremel and soldering/de-soldering equipment), but it's totally do-able. If your washer won't drain, displays "nd" error code, and you're sure it's the board, this is an option. I Google'd the part number on the relays (F&T F3AA012E), and there were a couple of U.S.-based sources for purchasing them for less than $10/each.
You sir.......are a true DIY'er!
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