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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone my first major post. been reading for hours about roofs here. I got a old tar and gravel flat roof and a steeper shingled roof right now. the roof is leaking badly on the gravel side.

So i got a couple different bids. but i need help deciding whats the best option:

1-johns manville granular APP mod bit. $5k

2. firestone epdm. $7k

3. pvc $18k (yikes)

for all the experts out there ( ed, TRG, etc) which option do you think is best? i think at this point i am going to tear off the existing shingle roof and replace with whatever material i decide to go with.

also, how do i insure the roofer i pick is legit? i asked for references and insurance, but what else? thanks for all the help!!!!
 

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Don't know what state you are in. I can tell you in Washington you can go to the state's Dept of Labor and get all pertinent info on a contractor. License, insurance, bond, lawsuits, tax status. In Idaho it's not nearly as detailed. So it varies from state to state.

As for the type of roof, you'll be lucky to get 10 years out of the APP. The EPDM all depends on what material and who is installing it. Same as the PVC. Honestly, the best system you could put on (besides low-slope metal) is what's not on your list but is already on your roof. A 4-ply gravel BUR is good for 25-30 years properly maintained. Unfortunately not many people do them anymore. They learn how to do single-ply and call themselves roofers.

I must say the PVC price does seem inordinately high compared to the epdm but I don't know what either plans on doing. It does look like you definitely need something done though. What is the square footage of the deck in question?
 

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I'd go with EPDM, but whether it leaks or not is all up to how it is put on, and I wouldn't replace the shingles with EPDM just the flat part of the roof then just get some new shingles for the rest.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the input gentlemen. yea BUR is old school and noones proposed it. noone proposed metal either. i have read up on everything system except metal. is there a big advantage to using metal? i mentioned replacing the shingles side too because 2 squares need to be fixed on the shingle roof as well. something is pushing up from underneath and causing it to push up through the roof.

oh and i am in the DC metro area. we had the crazy insane crazyyyyyyyyy blizzard you guys prob heard about
 

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A high-end standing seam metal like Imetco Series300 is your best option. May cost a little more up front but, properly installed, you will never have to worry about it again. I'm not talking about something you buy from the big box, Series 300 is a very well-engineered system and worth the money.

You still never told us how large the area in question is.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
A high-end standing seam metal like Imetco Series300 is your best option. May cost a little more up front but, properly installed, you will never have to worry about it again. I'm not talking about something you buy from the big box, Series 300 is a very well-engineered system and worth the money.

You still never told us how large the area in question is.
thanks for the reply. i need to research into metal. the flat slope side is about 750 sq ft, and the shingle side is a little less maybe 700.
 

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So the prices you listed are for an 8 square job? Wow, what else is being done besides tearing off existing and installing a new roofing system? Or is this for the entire house?
 

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So the prices you listed are for an 8 square job? Wow, what else is being done besides tearing off existing and installing a new roofing system? Or is this for the entire house?
yea only 700sq for each section. its just replacing roof. nothing else
 

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I would hope you will close in and get rid of what’s left of that window in the process.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
so the best way is to call the manufacturer of the roof you want and ask them whos qualified to install the roofing system they make
 

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Calling the manufacturer for a certified roofer doe's not guarantee you a quality job will be done.

Look at manufacturer certified contractors, angies list, search engine searches, yards signs left by contractors in your area, ask friends/family, etc., and then take 'free' estimates until you find the contractor you feel most comfortable with.
 

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So the prices you listed are for an 8 square job? Wow, what else is being done besides tearing off existing and installing a new roofing system? Or is this for the entire house?

The pictures he's showing us have snow on the ground. There hasn't been any snow in DC for at least a month or two. :whistling2:

There will certainly be some sheathing if not structural repairs necessary since water has been pouring in for at least months.

All of those prices sound pretty high. I've done some work in the DC area and disposal was pretty high compared to KY, but not enough to account for those prices. The PVC guy must be pretty proud of his product.

To the OP: Are you sure they're not proposing adding tapered insulation or re-sheathing or something else like that?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Calling the manufacturer for a certified roofer doe's not guarantee you a quality job will be done.

Look at manufacturer certified contractors, angies list, search engine searches, yards signs left by contractors in your area, ask friends/family, etc., and then take 'free' estimates until you find the contractor you feel most comfortable with.
thanks for the input. unfortunately i dont know anyone friends with a roofing problem. so all i have to go on right now is google and all the estimates

The pictures he's showing us have snow on the ground. There hasn't been any snow in DC for at least a month or two. :whistling2:

There will certainly be some sheathing if not structural repairs necessary since water has been pouring in for at least months.

All of those prices sound pretty high. I've done some work in the DC area and disposal was pretty high compared to KY, but not enough to account for those prices. The PVC guy must be pretty proud of his product.

To the OP: Are you sure they're not proposing adding tapered insulation or re-sheathing or something else like that?
sorry my pics are not clear-the roof just started leaking like 3 weeks ago. we havent had snow since march. the pic is just from when the snow melted and i went up there to take a look. so hopefully the decking is still in good condition,etc. the estimates propose laying down 1/2" board insluation, but did not specify if its tapered. i think most roofers take average consumers as not very knowledgable.
 

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i think most roofers take average consumers as not very knowledgable.

Actually, very few consumers want very much roof knowledge. They just want it fixed.
 

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I can tell ya right now those gaping holes in two of those pictures are not going to be cured with 1/2" recovery board. When it's bad enough to look like that I pretty much guarantee that what you see is only a small fraction of the actual damage you will uncover when you tear it off.

No mention of deck replacement?

looks like you have good slope, no need for any taper system.
 
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