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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 20v Li Ion Craftsman pro series drill. No problems until recently. The drill has great torque (500 in lbs) but only 1300 rpm speed (which i'm not sure is really all that bad for a cordless?) Anyway, the other day I was drilling holes in my floor joists with a 13/16 spade bit. I went about 25 feet so thats probably roughly 20 joists i drilled through. Drilled the holes with ease, no problems. I went through them somewhat quickly and I guess did not give the bit much rest between holes. After i was finished I went to take the bit out and it was totally stuck. I cant even really turn the chuck. I'm not sure if the chuck is busted or if I "fused" the bit to the chuck b/c it overheated? I'm leaning towards the later.

So my question is how likely is that i did actually overheat the bit to a point where it is now fused to the chuck? What are some tips to avoiding this? Should i have just drilled a few holes at a time and then let cool down? Used a faster drill?

SIDESTORY: So i have the extended warranty on this drill which i bought in a kit of two batteries, a circular saw, and flashlight. I foolishly take the drill into sears where they point out that the warranty clearly states to call a number and not bring it into the store. I go home and call the number. I say hey my chuck is totally stuck i cant remove my bit etc etc. The woman on the phone says ok, no problem, please cut the cord to your drill to "Disable" it and mail us the CORD with this pre paid UPS label i'm sending you. My response is that this is a cordless set, so she then says no problem you will need to mail us the battery. I'm baffled at this point. I reiterate to her clearly that it is the drill that is broken and the battery is fine. she says it doesn't matter we need the power source to ensure you didn't drop it in water, set it on fire, or somethign else that is not covered.

I find this all very odd and have a long conversation with her to try and clarify. Here are some issues and general observations of this policy. I own a kit where now i have a broken 70 dollar drill and have given them a perfectly good 90 dollar battery. I now have one battery to operate the saw and flashlight (and could continue drilling 13/16 holes i suppose) The good side of this for me though is that they are supposed to receive the battery, see that i didn't damage it by water or fire...and then reimburse me for the entire kit.....thats great on paper b/c now i still have a good portion of the kit that works and money to replace........reality is no. I bought this set on black friday for 200 the kit regularly cost 370. Still not an issue b/c the drill only cost 70 bucks.....but i also now have to replace the battery i sent them that cost 90. So i still end up making out a few bucks. Another crappy thing about this warranty service though is that its a one and done thing. So now if my circ saw breaks its not covered b/c they are saying they already paid me to replace "the whole set"....except i cant afford to replace the set.

Long story short they are sending me 216 bucks in sears gift card (assuming the approve my claim) Rather then buy the same drill and battery and have a few bucks left over I think I am going to shell out a few extra bucks and buy the hammer drill set. Basically I could spend 50 bucks and upgrade my set to have a hammer drill, 3 working batteries, two chargers, circ saw, and flashlight and two carry bags.
 

· Remodeling Contractor
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It is the problem with economy tools. They work fine until using them under more stressful real world workloads. But you can return for full refund. This is why pros will not use such brands. We have no time to return tools after each or during each job. Any good drill will work continuously for 24 hours a day if needed. I would use a 1/2" Milwaukee Hole Hawg when drilling holes for a new electrical rough-in. I turn in on and drill. Stop for lunch and drill until every hole is done. Used the same drill for 22 years now.
 

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It is very very unlikely that you got it hot enough to fuse it together. That would be 2000 degrees or more celcuis. Lower end chucks tend to get stuck after extreme use and somethimes even the good chucks do it. I would return it for a refund if under warranty and buy a better drill. If no warranty than stick the end of the chuck in a vice and a vice grip onto the upper of the chuck and get it lose.
 

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I would put a vise grip on the shank of the bit and wrap and grab the chuck with something else. Give it a sharp whack with some thing heavy...Unless your bit turned blue from end to end it is likely a chuck issue. Even then heat shouln't be an issue but I have seen overheated concrete bits sieize deep into a chuck on a hammer drill. They come loose with a bit of work.
Just don't chew up the chuck with a vise grip, wrap it before you grip it. Try a bit of penetrating spray inside and around the chuck and on the threads where it loosens. My old Jacobs chucks tighten up from time to time with grit and need cleaning but I'm talking about standard chucks like on my Porter Cable RA drill etc, which like Bob's Hole Hawg has been in use for over 12 years and done thousands of large holes 2" plus. If you replace the kit look for differeent quality chucks. If you use your drill a lot get the best you can buy.
As for sears, MAYBE YOU SHOULD HAVE OFFERED TO CUT THE CORD OFF YOUR CHARGER AND SEND IT TO HER?????????????:whistling2:
 

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You didn't fuse the bit to the chuck. I suspect you worked the drill hard, and on a couple of occasions the bit got stuck in while drilling. This can cause the chuck to clamp down on the bit and tighten even more. Having a relatively high torque capability in the drill just makes it possible to tighten it even more.

You could put it in a vise, but I would be inclined to use a strap wrench, to get a grip all around the ring instead of just two places, to loosen it.

Put enough turning force on it, and it should open up.

I don't think there is anything wrong with your drill. Hopefully you will just be able to take your $216, and buy a replacement battery for $90 and pocket the rest.
 

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An additional thought. If you find the chuck is really damaged, you could always buy a replacement chuck. You should be able to find a pretty good one for around $25; probably better than the one that is on the drill now.

Removing the old one from the drill will be the hardest part if you can't get the bit out.

If you do replace the chuck, do not buy the new one until you have removed the old one. It most likely has a half inch thread on the mount bolt, but some of the half-inch chucks have 3/8" threads on the mount bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey Guys,

Thank you for all your advice. My face is definitely red. I wrapped the chuck in a towel and stuck it in the vice. Turned the drill handle itself and it loosened right up. So now my concern is if the chuck is damaged or not. It seems to be working ok (i can put and secure bits in) but I'm wondering if with use it will loosen up. I dont know how to describe it but it does feel different to me.

So now if Sears sends me 200 bucks i can buy the replacement battery for 90 and then get another tool....i'm also still considering upgrading to the hammer version of this drill though. I find myself drilling into masonry often enough to warrant it. Seems like it might be a waste of money though. I could also replace the battery, buy a corded hammer drill, and just replace the chuck on this drill if infact it does go bad.

Anyway, thanks for all your input.
 

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I think you will find your chuck is OK. It just tightened up on you because of the work you put it through. You should not need to replace it.

I find a second drill is useful. I had 3 going last weekend. I get tired of continually replacing bits, and use a different drill for each bit when I'm working. I didn't deliberatly buy lots of drill, just got them because they came in kits that were a great deal for the other tools and batteries.

Buy the hammer drill kit of you really want a hammer drill and the batteries. You will find the extra drill will be useful. I rarely find a need to use a hammer drill. As a suggestion, look at getting the impact as a bare tool. I love my impacts, would not think of using a drill for putting in a screw or bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Highlander. The second drill would definitely be useful, anytime I find myself drilling a hole and then needing to put a screw in it would be a great time for it. I can manage without having the hammer drill but when drilling into the block it is a lot easier. They do have an impact for that set I could get. The impact, jig saw, and reciprocating are all sold by themselves without batteries for 60-80 bucks. So i could buy the battery and an impact or the hammer drill and have 3 batteries. Or I could by a battery and cheaper miter saw......
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I got my gift card and opted for the Impact Driver for this set. Thanks to a sale and a few different coupons I ended up buying the Impact and two batteries for 234....only 18 bucks out of my pocket. No problems with the drill either, seems to be fine. So now I have 3 batteries, the drill, the circular saw, flashlight, and impact driver........thats $550 worth of tools that I've spent about 250 bucks on. As soon as I got that impact home I drilled a few different screws and bolts in.....MAN that is sweet. I have a feeling I will be using my drill alot less.
 

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Google's translator application suggests that the Chinese post has to do with home ownership and rentals. I think someone has a spam virus.

My Russian post was wrong. I thought he was pointing the OP in the direction of a warranty claim.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks again. I am absolutely loving the impact driver. helped my buddy put up a fence recently and drove 2 1/2 in screws into PT wood...battery lasted all day and the screws went in like butter. Did my first tiling this weekend and screwed in the new subfloor......man that thing is sweet.
 
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