[apguy]

Ok guys,

I'm renovating a soon to be refreshed bedroom and adding in 3 small accent/wall wash lights in a corner that'll be a reading nook. Adjacent to it will be the closet so I thought it'd be nice to have a switch close by as well as when you first come into the room. I've wired 3 ways in the past but this is a first for having the power source coming into the light.

Many diagrams I've seen with two 3 way switches with multiple lights have the entire circuit using 3 conductor wiring. Maybe I'm missing something but why couldn't one wire it per the diagram below and just tie in 2 more lights to the first one controlled by the 3 way switches? If the switches control one light, couldn't it control 3 if they are wired in parallel to the first

 

[Oldmaster]

I don't see the diagram but you are correct in your assumption.

 

[RAL238]

If the switches control one light, couldn't it control 3 if they are wired in parallel to the first

The diagram didn't appear in your post.

Sure, it can be done that way you describe. If the first fixture gets switched power, just connect the others up in parallel with 14/2.

Wiring between the switches and fixtures often depends on what is easiest/least expensive to do, depending on the layout. Sometimes, it may be easier to run the 14/3 through all the light fixtures.

You didn't state your location, but NEC requires a neutral be run to switch junction boxes, in case someone ever wants to use a smart switch. Only one box in a 3-way arrangement needs the neutral if the 2 switches are in sight of each other. If power is coming into one of the fixtures, you'll need 14/4 to run to one of the switches.

 

[joed]

Do NOT try to wire it SW1 LT1 LT2 LT2 SW2. You need 4 wire cable to make it work.
The best option is SW1 SW2 LT1 LT2 LT3.

You could do SW1 LT1 SW2 and then LT1 LT2 LT3

 

[apguy]

Thanks for the quick replies. Finally got the diagram in reference to load properly. Does this look correct? SW1 & SW2 to LT1(power source) , then LT2 & LT3 wired in parallel to LT1

 

[RAL238]

Thanks for the quick replies. Finally got the diagram in reference to load properly. Does this look correct? SW1 & SW2 to LT1(power source) , then LT2 & LT3 wired in parallel to LT1

The diagram is correct in terms of wiring to the terminals of the 3-way switches, but it does not show a neutral running to the switch box, which is required by the NEC.



Consider running the power feed to one of the switch boxes instead of the fixture so solve the problem. Then you can avoid the need for a 4-wire cable.

 

[Nealtw]

Thanks for the quick replies. Finally got the diagram in reference to load properly. Does this look correct? SW1 & SW2 to LT1(power source) , then LT2 & LT3 wired in parallel to LT1

It is the same but with 4 wire so you get a neutral at both switches.

 

[apguy]

Ok so I've got to run 14/4 to the switch boxes to get the neutral in there... got it. But now both 3 ways will be in a double gang box. One double gang has a switch to control the closet light, the other by the bedroom door provides the regular room lighting. (Each switch box will have a single pole and 3 way for their respective circuits) (box 1 closet switch & 3 way to accent lights) (box 2 room light switch & 3 way to accent lights)

Closet & room lights are wired all with 14/2 as power to light, then to the switch with a single run of 14/2. If I run 14/4 to both 3 ways going on those boxes will that suffice for having a neutral in the box? Or does each circuit need the neutral?

Feel silly asking these questions. I normally check code before I start a project but somehow missed this one

 

[Nealtw]

Ok so I've got to run 14/4 to the switch boxes to get the neutral in there... got it. But now both 3 ways will be in a double gang box. One double gang has a switch to control the closet light, the other by the bedroom door provides the regular room lighting. (Each switch box will have a single pole and 3 way for their respective circuits) (box 1 closet switch & 3 way to accent lights) (box 2 room light switch & 3 way to accent lights)

Closet & room lights are wired all with 14/2 as power to light, then to the switch with a single run of 14/2. If I run 14/4 to both 3 ways going on those boxes will that suffice for having a neutral in the box? Or does each circuit need the neutral?

Feel silly asking these questions. I normally check code before I start a project but somehow missed this one

I think each circuit wants it's own neutral so when you turn off a breaker the neutral is also dead.

 

[apguy]

I think each circuit wants it's own neutral so when you turn off a breaker the neutral is also dead.

Sorry I should have worded that different. This room is on its own dedicated breaker. If that make any difference to the 404.2 code

 

[Nealtw]

Sorry I should have worded that different. This room is on its own dedicated breaker. If that make any difference to the 404.2 code

I don't think so.

 

[joed]

If all these switches are on the same circuit, where is the power feed for these new switches you didn't mention at the start?

 

[apguy]

Power is brought into the attic from the panel. Decided just to run power to the switch boxes instead since 14/4 is hard to come by without checking into an electric contractor or warehouse. Ran source power from jbox to closet box and to main light box. Split power at closet box to closet switch & 3 way switch, 14/3 from master dimmer to companion. 14/2 from companion dimmer to lights in main box. Other power from j box to main light box. 14/2 from that switch to main room lights.