[Firefighter3244]

So I prepping my kitchen for tile. Cleaned layers of floor up down to the 3/4 subfloor. Put down 1/2 Backer Board for tile prep.
I've seen mixed ideas. Mud and tape the cement board joints and let dry before tile. Or, When laying tile fill the joints with the same mud.

My family member helping me says just fill the joints when I lay the tile but
I want to make sure. If it must be done, I'll do it. Looking to keep this house for awhile.

Tiles are 6x24...

Also apperantly this is what is suppose to be used in showers....
My local stores didn't have anything else in 1/2 and the 1/4 was only like 6% cheaper... Didn't make sense doubling that up at twice the cost.
It's 260 Sq ft. 15sq ft sheets were $13...

 

[JazMan]

Is that HardieBacker or Durock?

You can tape and thinset the joints before or as you're tiling. If you do it before, make sure you do not create "speed-bumps". Lots of people do that and is why some people tell you to tape while tiling. You need to be xtra careful not to snag the tape with the trowel. Either way you must tape, if that's part of your Q.

Your choice on whether to use ¼" or ½" for floors. ¼" is made for floors and is actually stronger in some respects. In large metro areas they cost the same, usually just under $10.

Did you check how flat the floor is? Anyone refer to a span chart for you? How old is the house?

Jaz

 

[Firefighter3244]

House was built in 1994, My family has owned it since 96.

The floors were nice and flat before I put the Hardi Backer down.
There was one ridge but some subfloor screws helped bring it down
and make it less an issue.

I used 1/2" Hardie Backer Boards at $13/Sheet. The 1/4 was only $1 Less. $12/Sheet.

Now that I got on lowes.com I see I could have bought durok brand for $10... Oh well. Too late.


No clue on a span chart, I'll google that and look into it.

The tiles are 5.5x24 or I assume what everyone calls 6x24.

The thinset I bought shows up to 15" long tiles so looks like I need to return it and get the right stuff.....

I also think I'm going to buy that flooring level clamp system to help avoid lippage. Obviously I want it as flat as possible.

 

[Firefighter3244]

So I plan on filling the joints and taping as we lay the tile. Hopefully that's
okay.

Also, Looks like I made a big mistake. I layed the Hardi Backer down with
"Liquid Nails Flooring" instead of thinset. Of course I screwed it about every 6" in all directions but still I'm reading using the adhesive instead of morter is a big no no. It's too late. 1,150 screws down and not coming back up.

 

[JazMan]

I layed the Hardi Backer down with "Liquid Nails Flooring" instead of thinset.

Where on earth did you get that idea? You miss-understand the purpose of the thinset. Hint; it's not to hold the board down.

Jaz

 

[Firefighter3244]

The person helping me, obviously that was a mistake.....

Wanting to make sure I do it right from here on out. Not possible to take it back up and re-do it with my wifes baby shower coming in 10 days.

I read the hardibacker pdf, and it said I could mud the joints when I mud the tile
and tape it then as well as mentioned in this thread. Just making sure
that's fine.

Also, using 6x24 tiles with 33.3% offset ( 3rds ) it says to use 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/2 trowel.
I've read that with the 6x24 that using the 1/4 x 3/8 x 1/4 is fine.
I'll use the 1/2 but it just looks HUGE... I'm def. not using the 1/4 x 1/4 x 1/4.
I figured the 3/8 would work. But... I don't know.

Also, The Leveling system sold at Home depot is worth buying right?
It seems like a good way to help get a better level surface than spacers alone and limiting lippage...

 

[JazMan]

Wanting to make sure I do it right from here on out.

Nothing you do from now on is gonna correct what was done wrong. It's a pain I know and why you're supposed to consult with people who know what they're doing. I guarantee some hairline cracks in the grout within a few years. The good thing is that you may never see them.

You can tape the joints as you install the tiles, that's fine.

* For accuracy of terms to avoid confusion. "Mud" in the tile biz means a mix of sand and cement usually about 1-2" thick that creates the base for tile. Thinset mortar is NOT mud.

Yup, ⅓ offset is the recommended pattern. 1/2x1/2 is good, 1/4x1/2x1/4 is virtually the same. 1/4x3/8x1/4 should also be fine if you make sure to make it nice & semi stiff and hold the trowel at a high angle and of course you're gonna back-butter regardless of which trowel. Do you know the proper troweling technique?

Which leveling system do they have? Leveling has nothing to do with spacing.

Jaz

 

[Firefighter3244]

Thats unfortunate. I had read and brought up the boards should be
layed on thinset but went with my family member because this was my first time. Now I know for future projects to keep to everything I've learned
was the correct way.

I understand level/spacing is completely separate.

I bought these for the leveling system to assist in decreasing possible lippage.

ie. sample

SPACING, I bought QEP 1/4" Spacers for the tiles to give a decent size grout line. I was worried about going with a small 1/16th on this size tile
like the leveling system includes. I figured with a larger grout line, It would help hide any possible lippage or very minor issues with the install.

I bought a 1/2 x 1/2 x 1/2 trowel so I had room to do 45* and not worry about keeping it perfectly straight up like I'd have to with a 3/8 trowel.

Yes, I believe I understand the trowel needs to be drug from short side to short side of the 6x24 tile, also skim both the floor and back butter the tile to ensure absolute maximum coverage. I understand DO NOT trowel in random patters, causing air gaps and less than desirable coverage.


From what I've read and understand, this photo I'm about to show
would be the WRONG method of troweling 6x24 tiles.
It should instead go from left to right allowing me to apply pressure
and close those air channels.

Although it appears straight in any direction is correct, but preferred from short end to short end. Just as long as I don't do any swirls or turning.....

I learned that in this Trowel and Error video

 

[ChiTownPro]

I think you don't realize how big of an error using LN to adhere the backer down really was. It will actually create the very issue that the thinset was designed to eliminate.

I'm also not a big fan of the LASH system.

 

[Firefighter3244]

I do now, and hopefully the 60ish Hardie Backer screws each board got will help prolong
the amount of time I have until I have issues. It's too late, I can't tear it up.
The tile is almost done being put down. Thanks for the help, Obviously I wish I had come here sooner and had not buckled to the person who I thought I was teaching me. Boy was that a mistake.
Unfortunately I can't do anything about the LN... we have our first child due in 2 months and the baby shower in a week. I will have to deal with the issues when they appear. Hopefully a few years from now. Maybe I'll use that as an excuse to update the floors again.

Thank you though, I do appreciate it.

ps; thus far, for a first time trying flooring the lash system is working great and producing very minimal lippage. I don't believe It could be less and it certainly would be much worse had I not used this system.
We got these tiles from a salvage store, they appear to be rejects from the manufacture. Leonia silver, Lowes Stock.

 

[jSPENCEINC]

Youll be fine, chitown pro must work for James Hardie. Most installers do not even take the extra step to mortar down the hardie. Its something ive done everytime just to make sure my clients preserve there manufacturers waranties. Being you are the client let me set your mind at ease. I purchased a house 10 years ago and had my crew do the tile, found out they just screwed the hardie down after work was complete. ( its still there )

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[ChiTownPro]

Youll be fine, chitown pro must work for James Hardie. Most installers do not even take the extra step to mortar down the hardie. Its something ive done everytime just to make sure my clients preserve there manufacturers waranties. Being you are the client let me set your mind at ease. I purchased a house 10 years ago and had my crew do the tile, found out they just screwed the hardie down after work was complete. ( its still there )

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No, I don't work for JH, I work for my clients. Most installers actually do take the necessary step to mortar the board down. It's not an extra step.

You do it not to preserve the warranty, but because it's needed to complete the system. There is a purpose for it.

And how can you compare your house and situation to anyone else without knowing his setup and then offer comfort?

www.tntrenovate.com

 

[jSPENCEINC]

Least theres something under there and construction adhesive is better then nothing all im saying.

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[ChiTownPro]

But it's not. It's not better than nothing. The purpose of the thin set isn't for bonding, but for void filling. The bond between the sheet and the plywood will most likely break after a few years, but the voids will remain filled. The adhesive doesn't fill any voids and in fact created ridges the board is sitting on. That's why it's not better than nothing, nothing would actually be better.

 

[JazMan]

jSPENCEINC,

You said;

I purchased a house 10 years ago and had my crew do the tile, found out they just screwed the hardie down after work was complete.

So, therefore, remind me not to let that crew do any work for anyone I know.

It's still there huh? Where else is it gonna be?

BTW, welcome! Care to introduce yourself and give a brief bio as it relates to tile work and such.....?

Jaz

 

[jSPENCEINC]

Thought i did that already. Im on taptalk where can i post my bio?

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[jSPENCEINC]

Ill post it here, my names Josh Spencer 35 years old, owner and operator of Innovative Renovations of Dallas Tx. We specialize in turn key remodeling. Im a licensed master plumber. And hold the guiness world record for trim installation 😎

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[JazMan]

I think the easiest is to click "user CP" in the forum page, then click edit "edit your details".

We think it's good to say something about yourself and what experience/qualifications you hope to share with visitors asking questions. It gives them confidence to know you're a real person with a reputation etc. Give any contact info you'd like including websites etc. It's not mandatory but it helps.

Jaz

 

[jSPENCEINC]

Thanks

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[ChiTownPro]

Ill post it here, my names Josh Spencer 35 years old, owner and operator of Innovative Renovations of Dallas Tx. We specialize in turn key remodeling. Im a licensed master plumber. And hold the guiness world record for trim installation 😎

Sent from my LGMS330 using Tapatalk

Why do you have pics of other people's work on your site?