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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Our whole house is in EMT with a bit of AC, and we have a couple under cabinet lights that were originally hardwired directly into the back of the light enclosures, and set way back against the wall. I'd like to install new ones, but don't want them set that far back. We don't care about remote switching at this time, are looking at the type with a switch on the actual light housing.

Does it look like I would be able to use the existing EMT end to attach to a small/shallow metal junction box mounted to the bottom of the cabinet, then run flex or EMT (or something else, if allowed in the Chicago area) over to the knockout in the back of the new light?

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I would cut in a box in the cabinet above and pull the bx cable into that and run mc to the light. The only method I can think of is a handy box but they are 1 1/2" deep. They used to make a 4" sq box that was 1" but that may be hard to find.
 

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Personally, I would use a junction box inside the back of the cabinet and then bring the cable back down through the bottom and use low-profile Wiremold raceway components which can be snapped together.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the suggestions. I am afraid the stub of conduit coming out of the wall at the bottom edge of the cabinet might not be pull-able, because I don't see any conduit going up into that wall from the basement, and it could even potentially be a small nipple coming from the back of a box on the other side of the wall. I like the idea of a junction right at the wall and am fine with some surface mount conduit or stapled up cable, it would be difficult to see, especially behind the new light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Without a ground wire, can I be sure ground will be transferred/extended through the metal wiremold fittings and raceways? I was planning on running a separate ground wire from an EMT box. Maybe I can get lucky and find a shallow one of those.
 

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If your EMT is grounded, you can attach a ground to that where it comes out of the cabinet and then run that ground through the Wiremold.

IMPORTANT NOTE AND QUALIFYING STATEMENT: I'm not an electrician. Some of the others will chime in if I'm directing you down a non-coded path (even though it is a practical solution).
 

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Sounds like a lot of work to move the light forward.
I know lighting designers say to do this, but I never do. I don't like the look of surface wiring. I always use a fixture that has a down facing lens instead of a wrap around diffuser like the old fluorescent fixtures had allowing light to shine outwards into the room causing a glare when setting at a table looking up at the fixture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sounds like a lot of work to move the light forward.
I know lighting designers say to do this, but I never do. I don't like the look of surface wiring. I always use a fixture that has a down facing lens instead of a wrap around diffuser like the old fluorescent fixtures had allowing light to shine outwards into the room causing a glare when setting at a table looking up at the fixture.
Good point, but with the lights we're interested in, the knockout doesn't align with the current position of the conduit if we want the light to be centered under the cabinet.

Can the type of connector I currently have accept an EMT elbow, few inches long run, and another elbow to turn back out?
 

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I may be wrong, but that connector looks like 3/8" instead of 1/2". As to the new fixture, you can drill a hole anywhere needed if the fixture is wide enough for the existing connector. Old fixtures were 1 1/2" wide (deep) where new ones are 1".
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It did look a bit smaller than normal to me, good eye. If it's 3/8" is there a connector to attach a short piece of flexible metal conduit to what's there at the wall?
 

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Thanks for the suggestions. I am afraid the stub of conduit coming out of the wall at the bottom edge of the cabinet might not be pull-able, because I don't see any conduit going up into that wall from the basement, and it could even potentially be a small nipple coming from the back of a box on the other side of the wall. I like the idea of a junction right at the wall and am fine with some surface mount conduit or stapled up cable, it would be difficult to see, especially behind the new light.
You mentioned the possibility of a junction box on the other side of the wall. Is there one? If so, using that, along with a nipple or some EMT through the wall and directly into your new fixture seems to be the cleanest.
 

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Most fixtures come with a 3/8" flex connector. You would need a coupling to attach it. But then you would need another connector at the fixture. I have thrown away a lot of them because I have always used NM cable. Don't know if they are available in the store.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I may be wrong, but that connector looks like 3/8" instead of 1/2". As to the new fixture, you can drill a hole anywhere needed if the fixture is wide enough for the existing connector. Old fixtures were 1 1/2" wide (deep) where new ones are 1".
So I would be able to drill a 3/8" hole through the metal on the back of the new fixture and use that to attach the fixture directly to the stub at the wall, holding it in place with a lock nut?
 
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