[marvin1944]

I have a regular single pole wall switch that controls 8 hard wired 110 VAC motion detectors that is also connected to a 110 VAC alarm sounding device. The problem I am getting is I have to flip fast the toggle switch on and off by guess work until the motion detector will stop trigerring alarm sound automatically. Is there a device or a solution to replace this switch so that it will just arm the motion detectors and don't sound the alarm automatically and just put it in ready mode awaiting for detection. Is there a 110 VAC keypad or special wall switches to solve this issue. Thanks a lot.

 

[stickboy1375]

I have a regular single pole wall switch that controls 8 hard wired 110 VAC motion detectors that is also connected to a 110 VAC alarm sounding device. The problem I am getting is I have to flip fast the toggle switch on and off by guess work until the motion detector will stop trigerring alarm sound automatically. Is there a device or a solution to replace this switch so that it will just arm the motion detectors and don't sound the alarm automatically and just put it in ready mode awaiting for detection. Is there a 110 VAC keypad or special wall switches to solve this issue. Thanks a lot.

Remove the audio device.

 

[marvin1944]

Remove the audio device.

I can not remove the audio device. It is intended for a security system in my house, so the audio device of the alarm device is intended when motion is detected. Any more bright ideas from the expert electrician?

 

[stickboy1375]

I can not remove the audio device. It is intended for a security system in my house, so the audio device of the alarm device is intended when motion is detected. Any more bright ideas from the expert electrician?

I don't understand what you expect the outcome to be? If the audio is tied into the security light then the audio will be on with the light.

 

[k_buz]

So, after reading your post 3 times to try to figure out what exactly you were talking about, I think I got it.

You want to know if there is some way for your single pole switch to determine what it should turn on/arm?

You could install a second single pole switch breaking the existing switch leg from the motions to the audio, but that is only if I am interpreting your question correctly.

 

[Missouri Bound]

I can not remove the audio device. It is intended for a security system in my house, so the audio device of the alarm device is intended when motion is detected. Any more bright ideas from the expert electrician?[/quote]


I've got some ideas for you smart . Why don't you get a real alarm system instead of trying to make one? Or maybe hire a real electrician instead of doing this yourself. Clearly you haven't got the knowledge to do this yourself. A little more studying and a little less lip will do you wonders.:furious:

 

[marvin1944]

So, after reading your post 3 times to try to figure out what exactly you were talking about, I think I got it.

You want to know if there is some way for your single pole switch to determine what it should turn on/arm?

You could install a second single pole switch breaking the existing switch leg from the motions to the audio, but that is only if I am interpreting your question correctly.

FYI, I don't have light, only motion and audio.
I have tried your solution adding extra switch before, but this will only hold off the audio to fire up. As soon as I switch on the extra switch, the alarm(audio) fires up. Hence, I have to flip switch on and off as fast until the audio sound stops and the motion detector settles itself into a ready mode stage waiting for motion intrusion. My purpose here is to avoid the flipping method.

 

[marvin1944]

I can not remove the audio device. It is intended for a security system in my house, so the audio device of the alarm device is intended when motion is detected. Any more bright ideas from the expert electrician?[/quote]


I've got some ideas for you smart . Why don't you get a real alarm system instead of trying to make one? Or maybe hire a real electrician instead of doing this yourself. Clearly you haven't got the knowledge to do this yourself. A little more studying and a little less lip will do you wonders.:furious:

Why are you freaking furious, Missouri Bound. I have a wired real alarm system installed by professional. If I hire a real one, the joy of success and glory on a DIY project is far gone and I don't think you are far smarter with your given ideas. So back off.

 

[TTW]

Manufacturer and model number of the motion detectors?

Wire a separate switch for the alarm and leave the motion detectors on (in ready mode) all the time and just turn the alarm on when desired?

I'm sure they draw very little power...

 

[marvin1944]

Manufacturer and model number of the motion detectors?

Wire a separate switch for the alarm and leave the motion detectors on (in ready mode) all the time and just turn the alarm on when desired?

I'm sure they draw very little power...

Mfr: 8 motion detector: Heath Zenith model 5316
1 sound alarm device: Potter MH120W
(both are 120VAC)

I have done your recommendation (similar to K_buz' solution) but as soon as I desire to turn on the switch meant for the alarm device, it fires the sound immediately.

 

[TTW]

Sounds like you need to get them out of manual mode. Also see page 4 of the manual, heating vents and lights could cause this.

Manual here:

http://heath-zenith.hcents.com/data/manuals/595-5109-13.pdf

 

[Oso954]

Those floodlight motion detectors do not work well with electronics on the load side. That is why they say incandescent only, no CFL's.

So, your alarm may simply be incompatible with the sensors.

 

[marvin1944]

Those floodlight motion detectors do not work well with electronics on the load side. That is why they say incandescent only, no CFL's.

So, your alarm may simply be incompatible with the sensors.

However once I have it reset thru toggling the switch on and off, things get normal and makes it ready to do motion detecting and sounding. I may consider the load side is compatible though it isn't a light fixtures.

 

[TTW]

However once I have it reset thru toggling the switch on and off, things get normal and makes it ready to do motion detecting and sounding. I may consider the load side is compatible though it isn't a light fixtures.

for testing, wire an incandescent light in instead of the alarm and see if that works ok, if it does, you can use a relay.

Are the motion detectors mounted outside?

 

[marvin1944]

for testing, wire an incandescent light in instead of the alarm and see if that works ok, if it does, you can use a relay.

Are the motion detectors mounted outside?

I have done a test using a light instead of an alarm and it works before I go for it. All fixtures motion and sound are installed interior. If I use a relay, pls. give the specs, what to buy and show how to install it.

 

[TTW]

This one will work for you and is pre wired.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/RIB-Enclosed-Pre-Wired-Relay-5LE35?Pid=search

White and black, 120 v in from sensors

Yellow and orange will switch alarm

 

[marvin1944]

:yes:

This one will work for you and is pre wired.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/RIB-Enclosed-Pre-Wired-Relay-5LE35?Pid=search

White and black, 120 v in from sensors

Yellow and orange will switch alarm

Thanks, I'll get the piece and give it a shot. Will keep you posted.

 

[marvin1944]

:yes:
Thanks, I'll get the piece and give it a shot. Will keep you posted.

:thumbup:It worked. Make a note that if your alarm e.g bell, don't fires up, then a connection to a light fixture is necessary. My application did not require a light fixture to function. Many thanks TTW:thumbsup:. STEPPING UP, now that I can turn on/off the system using a single pole switch, is there another way I could use a remote control device instead.