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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have my plumbing moved and all ready for a shower floor to be put in, the group that did the drain move was going to put in the shower for me but they disappeared. I contacted another tile guy who was going to do it but he's too busy with other job and lives a little far from me and keeps rescheduling! I'm getting frustrated here and watched every single video and read all those blogs about how to build a shower pan.

I'm feeling pretty confident and I think I'm pretty handy to tackle this job but not sure if I should leave this to a professional? I've been to the tile shop and picked up the floor mix. They have these goof proof pitch stuff that makes things easy. Would you guys recommend leaving this to a professional or should I go get started? As I mentioned I'm pretty handy and I believe I can do this.

Any words of advise here?

Thanks for reading.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Blondesense,
Thanks. read that article few times already. very detailed. I nailed a treated 2x4 for the curb. I'll stack two more regular 2x4 for the curb. this article shows he uses metal lath for the curb and it concerns me that it might poke a hole in the liner?

This may help.

http://www.ontariotile.com/preslope.html

Keep in mind, no cuts, holes, staples, nails, or punctures of any kind in that plastic, until you are at least six inches up on the wall.
 

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I used the lath. It worked fairly easily. once you got a base of mortar on it seemed to smooth out fairly easily.


here is a pic of my first. You can see I ran low on the liner but it never gets wet out past the edge. At least in my shower. Has been working perfectly for three years.



 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That looks very good. nicely tiled. did you do it all by yourself? I plan to put the drain in tonight. does the lip of the drain need to be flushed with the bare concrete floor before I put the first layer or mortar?
 

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If I remember the drain screws to the subfloor. The mud gets placed around the lower part of the drain. The liner gets cut around the drain. Clamped down by the upper part. the drain threads into the lower part of the drain so you can set your height.

Make sure there aren't any burrs in the drain part that is pvc. THey will catch hair and gross stuff.


 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Some specific questions.
1. do I use a felt paper on the concrete slab for the pre pan? or do I just use pour sand mix directly on the concrete floor?
2. I read somewhere that the thinnest part shouldn't be less than an inch thick. if that's the case, I may have issues as my drain pipe is low and I may have 1/4" max around the drain for the first layer or mortar.
3. I've seen people put 2x6 at the bottom between the studs. what's purpose does that serve?

Thanks.
 

· Tileguy
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You first need to decide whether to build a traditional method shower or one with surface membrane. (hint, surface membrane is much better!):wink:

I sounds to me you were thinking along the lines of traditional since no mention of surface waterproofing.

You should consider the options and get back to us here.

Jaz

Kim, you posted while I was typing, I may add more later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
by surface membrane you mean pan liner?
I do plan to use the same method as described on this site http://www.ontariotile.com/preslope.html

Is this the traditional method? I've seen some videos where they use goof proof perfect pitch products. going to incorporate those ideas as well.

You first need to decide whether to build a traditional method shower or one with surface membrane. (hint, surface membrane is much better!):wink:

I sounds to me you were thinking along the lines of traditional since no mention of surface waterproofing.

You should consider the options and get back to us here.

Jaz

Kim, you posted while I was typing, I may add more later.
 

· Tileguy
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No, pan liner, (shower pan, or shower membrane) is not surface membrane, it's the old method. Surface membrane is like the Kerdi system. The Kerdi membrane goes on the surface so the tiles are installed directly on the membrane.

With the old method the pan is 2" below the floor surface and so everything between the tiles and shower pan will get saturated from normal use. I don't think that's good. Plus there's usually no waterproofing for the walls.

Jaz
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
can you please post some information on the method you're suggesting. perhaps a DIY guide?
I'm also reading this
http://floorelf.com/how-to-create-a-shower-floor-part-1

seems pretty well put together.

No, pan liner, (shower pan, or shower membrane) is not surface membrane, it's the old method. Surface membrane is like the Kerdi system. The Kerdi membrane goes on the surface so the tiles are installed directly on the membrane.

With the old method the pan is 2" below the floor surface and so everything between the tiles and shower pan will get saturated from normal use. I don't think that's good. Plus there's usually no waterproofing for the walls.

Jaz
 

· Tileguy
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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
okay.. :) this is completely different and yes all my research and planning is based on the traditional systems. This looks pricey btw! I'll call some local dealers. If the price is too much, I may stick to my traditional system :/

There's thousand of article and videos, probably hundreds of thousands?

Start here and find Kerdi info. http://picasaweb.google.com/101434355976808740925?gsessionid=QcOkJYCajcjdwWFqROy20A

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PF6_4XywHw4

Also go to www.schluter.com and snoop around.

Jaz
 

· Tileguy
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kimbhoot said:
This looks pricey btw! I'll call some local dealers. If the price is too much, I may stick to my traditional system :/
Yes and no. If you're doing all the work yourself, A Kerdi waterproof shower will probably cost $250 - $350 more than a traditional shower. But, unlike a traditional shower, it will be waterproof, and will look better cuz the substrate deck mud will not get wet. Much less maintenance, no mold, mildew, cracked corners, it's a vapor barrier etc.

If you were to hire someone, one would have to pay the tile setter maybe $600-800 more depending on size. BUT, you wouldn't need a plumber to do the pan and so you could deduct that amount. Mike Holmes says a Kerdi shower is worth about $1,200 more than a traditional. Hard for us to get that much more, but he's in Toronto mainly where the economy never skipped a beat.

However, a traditional shower will work too but there's a few things a DIY'er is likely to skip which will kill the job. Like; most people build the lower part and especially the curb wrong. They make holes in the pan to install the board as an example, and other details. Either way we can guide you.

Jaz
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
JazMan,
Went to a local Schluter dealer. It looks good. I'm considering it. Can you help me find a re-seller where I can get a discount? I need a detail breakdown of all the cost involved for this shower system installation.

Thanks.
 

· Tileguy
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I've got an idea. How about you click "User CP" in the header of the main page and then "Edit Your Details", then enter your location. This should help if someone has a suggestion on where to buy stuff.

If you're having trouble, I have all the Kerdi and Ditra stuff you need and can send to you. Make a list of what you need. Or I can help you do that. Send an IM for details on how to figure amounts etc.

Jaz
 
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