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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All,

I've lurked a lot here but never posted. Well, i fear I am just educated enough to ask a few questions.

I bought a 1970's built home in Southern California and it's been one project after another. Most recently, i decided to tackle the garage as the last guy who lived here was an engineer that screwed basically everything up. I am a crappy person to judge this (as I'm still new to this type of stuff) but his logic made no sense to me.

My roof is gabled. It has standard 2x8 rafters and a ridge beam with 2x4 rafter ties at the top plate. Well, the guy before me threw in super flimsy 1x6 (Douglas fir?) collar ties with 2x4" vertical supports from the rafter down to the rafter ties. He then build plywood storage on the rafter ties and sagged them.

I removed all the storage (aside from the rafter ties/collar plates as they might be original?) and built my own. I framed 2x4s in place of the old flimsy 1x6 (collar ties) and sandwiched the rafter with them. I then used 2x4s to build a horizontal framing structure from 3" above the top plate on each rafter out to supports dropped from the new, sandwiched collar ties.

I also tied the collar ties to the ridge beam and other rafters for support. I really wanted to remove my rafter ties now that I have decked in all my framing/storage with 1/2 Plywood (I hate the look of the sloppy, sagging ties blow my new framing) but understand they serve a purpose to keep the walls from pulling apart. I may end up re-doing them.

I went ahead and built all this before reading up too much on it as i feel i braced it enough and won't be loading more than a few hundred pounds on it but wanted to post it up to get everyone's thoughts. Now that I've read up a bit more, I would've done it differently but it's done and, 10lbs. of 3.5" structural lag screws later, it's not going anywhere without a fight. I want to ensure the way i built it won't cause my roof to sag or have issues and appreciate any guidance you guys can offer.
 

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Sure looks like a hip to me.
2 x 8 rafters, but what's the span?
Looks like it may have been fine to install sheetrock but not for storage.
No center beam?
 
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Make sure you understand the difference between a ridge BEAM (which i don't believe you have), and a ridge BOARD (what you probably have). I'll let someone else on here with more knowledge explain the exact difference.
 

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I am sorry to say but it looks like you have a hot mess on your hands, especially if I am reading your post correctly.

It sounds like you are basically 'hanging' the deck of your new storage area to the collar ties? The new 2x4 Collar ties you put in place of the original 1 x 6 collar ties?
You mentioned that the deck is 3" above the wall plate, right? So that is what I am envisioning. I hope I am wrong about that.

Andy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I am sorry to say but it looks like you have a hot mess on your hands, especially if I am reading your post correctly.

It sounds like you are basically 'hanging' the deck of your new storage area to the collar ties? The new 2x4 Collar ties you put in place of the original 1 x 6 collar ties?
You mentioned that the deck is 3" above the wall plate, right? So that is what I am envisioning. I hope I am wrong about that.

Andy.
Hi Andy,

I was hoping you could shed some light on this; i'd love to hear an educated perspective as I'm obviously the epitome of the DIY homeowner that knows enough to be dangerous. I know i have a good few hundred pouinds in material now suspended. My thoughts on the collar ties were one on each side. One side to connect to the support, the other side to serve as a collar tie. As for 3" above the wall plate, I couldn't go directly to the all plate as there are 2x4 rafter ties already existing.

Should I make spacers to essentially preload the beams to the wall-plate to ensure the load isn't on the rafter? I figured that the 3.5" distance from the bottom of the lumber to the wall plate was close enough to keep the load on the wall plate without pushing the rafter but it seems from your sentiment that I'm off?

I appreciate any assistance/guidance you can give me on salvaging my "Hot Mess".
 

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Sure looks like a hip to me.
2 x 8 rafters, but what's the span?
Looks like it may have been fine to install sheetrock but not for storage.
No center beam?
Yep, Joe has a good point here. So, your rafters are sized according to their span and loading, including possible snow load. so if you add more weight to them you are most likely over loading them they likely were not designed for the extra load you are adding.

You probably need a beam in your floor/ceiling. what is the span for your joists.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yep, Joe has a good point here. So, your rafters are sized according to their span and loading, including possible snow load. so if you add more weight to them you are most likely over loading them they likely were not designed for the extra load you are adding.

You probably need a beam in your floor/ceiling. what is the span for your joists.
I'm in southern California so snow is not an issue here. Span is about 22'
 

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I'm in southern California so snow is not an issue here. Span is about 22'
I looked up the span tables and your rafters, if they are on 24" centers they are already close to the max span without the ceiling attached.

You would need a beam down the center with doug-fir #2 2x8 ceiling rafters/joists on 24" centers.

You could do it without a beam but you would need to use engineered lumber here is a pdf with span tables for LsL lumber. you would need to use 1.5"x11.25" at 12" on centers to get a full span.

look at the 20LL/10DL column on page 3. of this pdf.

Warning large Pdf.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...KWeGETudKAjPUw&bvm=bv.113943164,d.cGc&cad=rja
 

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Hi Andy,

I was hoping you could shed some light on this; i'd love to hear an educated perspective as I'm obviously the epitome of the DIY homeowner that knows enough to be dangerous. I know i have a good few hundred pouinds in material now suspended. My thoughts on the collar ties were one on each side. One side to connect to the support, the other side to serve as a collar tie. As for 3" above the wall plate, I couldn't go directly to the all plate as there are 2x4 rafter ties already existing.

Should I make spacers to essentially preload the beams to the wall-plate to ensure the load isn't on the rafter? I figured that the 3.5" distance from the bottom of the lumber to the wall plate was close enough to keep the load on the wall plate without pushing the rafter but it seems from your sentiment that I'm off?

I appreciate any assistance/guidance you can give me on salvaging my "Hot Mess".
I do not think there is any salvaging of the deck as you have it. I am sure that the rafters are not designed for any other additional load on them other than the roof with light roof materials (asphalt or wood shingles) and someone walking on them for short periods.

Probably you will not load the deck with so much stuff that would cause it to collapse or it will not fail while you are up there. With light loading it may be fine for years, I do not know. But if you were to sell the house the new owners may put too much up there, who knows?

Andy.
 
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