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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I may need to solve a radon problem in my floating slab basement. Home is 34 yo, floating slab was in the design.

Help ??:(
 

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There are radon evacuation systems available for this job. Essentially a hole in the slab, ducts to the exterior and a fan. I don't know if this is DIY, but you can check locally.
Ron
 

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Radon

Was your basement tested for radon?? What was the reading????

Do you have a sump pump pit???

This might be easier than you think to remedy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
RADON in Floating Slab basement

Santini

Basement was tested for 5 weeks using a HW store kit. Results showed a reading of 4.1.

Yes, there is a sump-pump hole - we've never needed a sump-pump.

Thanks for your help.

ggogmo
 

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Radon

Your reading is borderline you really don't have to do anything 4 or under I think. Not positive though hope some other input arrives.

All you should need is a 3" or 4" in PVC down in the sump not to the bottom.

A in line fan and vent it outside the house.

Check the EPA.gov And check RADON web sites you can get a good handle on your removal there.

After installation run another test to see if it drops.


The reason you go to the sump is that it is the lowest part of the basement were all the radon will migrate to .
 

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A reading of 3 particulate and under is a safe limit, But if you have a 4.1 this time of year it's only gonna get worse in the winter when the ground freezes outside, if you live where it snows. As the ground freezes or is snow covered the radon has an easier path up through your basement floor cracks or sump hole. Before you go nuts with a system I would seal up the sump hole with a cover, they have covers just for sump holes that seal nice and tight. Then check the basement floor for cracks and seal them with a polyurethane caulk. And also at the top of the block wall if you have block walls there is usually a 2 to 3 inch opening under the mud sill that should be sealed, you could stuff newspaper down in the holes, about 8 inches into each hole of the block and then put mortar in the holes to seal them up. the newspaper is to prevent the mortar from going all the way down when you are filling the cells. Then wait for winter and test again, just by sealing up that sump hole itself might get you below the limit. But if you want to put a system in it is pretty simple. I could explain the whole procedure but it would take forever to type it here. The first step to see if your even a candidate for a subslab system and what type (passive or with a fan) is to check for what they call communication under the slab, Again we would be here forever explaining it. Order a manual online about putting these systems in. They are not hard to do. and a good manual will explain what tests to run to determine what type of system you need. I'll let you know the name of the book I bought. And don't feel to bad I've seen peoples homes with readings in the thousands.
 

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Radon levels

Just found recommended remediation at certain levels.

Most homes have readings between 1 - 4

T he level recommended to take action is


4radon.com go to facts and read.

As a matter of fact if you go to radon levels you will get all kinds of reading on subject.
 

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The book I mentioned is named, Protecting your home from radon a step by step manual for radon reduction. Very informative book. the web site I bought my supplies from is. http://www.infiltec.com/inf-catr.htm#Manual they have everything you need, from the caulk to even the sump covers. What I would do first is order the book, sump cover and the polyurethane caulk. Read the book, cover the sump, seal the cracks then do another reading. and take it from there. I'd say you should put the system in no matter what, when all said and done. Even if the reading is below 4, That's like asking how much radiation would I like my family exposed to, I'd say none. So bank on putting the system in either way the results go because Radon is a class A carcinogen and if you smoke you are compounding the risk of the big C. mine was 18 and I reduced it to 0. my system cost me about $350.00 that's with the book and a radon fan kit. Including the 4 inch pvc to go up to the roof from the basement. the book will explain everything. good luck.
 

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smoker

Nice to hear another one quit smoking, good.

I understand what you are saying however people can do as they wish.

Depend how paranoid they are.

It's hard to eliminate all dangers in life. Sometimes we can just do the best we can with the resources available.
 

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Who quit smoking, I still smoke, very bad. It is just a known fact that radon and a smoker are bad combonations . Check on those stats you would be surprised
 

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Smoking

Who quit smoking, I still smoke, very bad. It is just a known fact that radon and a smoker are bad combonations . Check on those stats you would be surprised
I'd be more worried about the cigarettes than the RADON.
 

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Thank you, James Con.

What do I do about the 2+" gap between the floating slab and the walls of the basement?
Never had that issue come up, as far as the floating slab. Where I am we have to have frost footings, so a floating slab is out of the question. I would try contacting the infiltec website I gave you by phone and see what they recomend. I would say you would have to cut some insulation out of the gap if there is any and fill it with a large gap filler. I know they sell an expanding urethane foam but it is pricey. Call infiltec and see what they say.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Radon - Floating Slab

James,

Thanks for your continued interest and advice. I'll check it out. I'm starting another short-term test today.

Mike
 

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I have a couple of these (really only needed one). They work well in my opinion. You can see how it changes.
http://www.amazon.com/Safety-Siren-Series3-Radon-Detector/dp/B000CEAY64
Yes, Yes. I actually bought one when I was first testing my house. Works well and it continually monitors the levels, short and long term. You just plug it in wait I think it was three days to the hour for the reading. mine still reads zero. I even brought it to all my familys houses to test there homes and they're homes tested hot. :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 

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Yeah, and you can see the effect of when the fan is turned off.
If I turn mine off it goes from about 1 to 14 or something like that in the basement in the summer. Even in the winter when things are closed up, I don't think the second floor radon level gets too high, as I recall, but I always have the fan on.
PS: The fantech 15 watt model fan did the trick for me at a very low energy consumption.
PPS: I've had those detectors for 3.5 years and they still work.
 

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Radon

The book I mentioned is named, Protecting your home from radon a step by step manual for radon reduction. Very informative book. the web site I bought my supplies from is. http://www.infiltec.com/inf-catr.htm#Manual they have everything you need, from the caulk to even the sump covers. What I would do first is order the book, sump cover and the polyurethane caulk. Read the book, cover the sump, seal the cracks then do another reading. and take it from there. I'd say you should put the system in no matter what, when all said and done. Even if the reading is below 4, That's like asking how much radiation would I like my family exposed to, I'd say none. So bank on putting the system in either way the results go because Radon is a class A carcinogen and if you smoke you are compounding the risk of the big C. mine was 18 and I reduced it to 0. my system cost me about $350.00 that's with the book and a radon fan kit. Including the 4 inch pvc to go up to the roof from the basement. the book will explain everything. good luck.
<<<< In response to the above, this looks a little dated but I am getting ready to install a radon mitigation system myself and also thinking about getting the book above. Does anyone know if the book advises on how many slab penetrations to make? I have quite a large basement and I am curious if it will take more than one hole. I have a reading of 8.3 currently with two windows cracked open about a 1/4 of an inch. My reading on the living level was around 12 with windows shut during the summer. My house is only a couple years old and is insulated with spray foam and is very tight. The heating/cooling system also recirculates air from the basement and I am getting ready to finish the basement with two bedrooms, bathroom and living room. Does anyone have some good advise for this situation? Thanks>>>>>
 
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