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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all!

I want to install the ice maker kit in our freezer. Problem is I have no plumbing going to the refrigerator. The run seems easy enough, about 18 feet from the sink to the top of the refrigerator. The ice maker hookup is at the top of the fridge.

The question I have is how to go about running it. Part of the way I will be able to run it under my built in cabinets. I know it won't be disturbed and possibly leak under here. When I get to my stove I have no place to keep it safe. Should I route it into the wall from here and bring it back out when it gets to the wall behind the fridge? I read somewhere online about routing it through the ceiling which seems like a very bad idea.

Also, what type of tube should I use?
 

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Hey all!

I want to install the ice maker kit in our freezer. Problem is I have no plumbing going to the refrigerator. The run seems easy enough, about 18 feet from the sink to the top of the refrigerator. The ice maker hookup is at the top of the fridge.

The question I have is how to go about running it. Part of the way I will be able to run it under my built in cabinets. I know it won't be disturbed and possibly leak under here. When I get to my stove I have no place to keep it safe. Should I route it into the wall from here and bring it back out when it gets to the wall behind the fridge? I read somewhere online about routing it through the ceiling which seems like a very bad idea.

Also, what type of tube should I use?
ok back up...is this house on a slab..no basement???:eek: most ice makers hook up at bottom left of frig
 

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Sorry. I assume everyone is on a slab which isn't the case haha.

This ice maker is an add on kit. I assume it will hook up at the top where the connections are made, but haven't actually seen it yet.
get the kit and see what is required to install....as far as tubing I use copper but that its always comming from a basement...you could use plastic kits but as you are saying need to protect line under cabinets ok behind stove should not be a big deal either not like its going to get disturbed there ..maybe slip into another pipe in the stove area....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
get the kit and see what is required to install....as far as tubing I use copper but that its always comming from a basement...you could use plastic kits but as you are saying need to protect line under cabinets ok behind stove should not be a big deal either not like its going to get disturbed there ..maybe slip into another pipe in the stove area....
Sorry I mistyped there. I am not afraid it will get disturbed under the cabinets.

Actually the plastic tubing through some PVC wouldn't be a bad idea. It would have great protection just in case something bad happened haha.
 

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Do not use a piercing valve even if that's what it comes with. Tap into the main water line under the house and add a ball valve instead. With a piercing valve there's far to much chance of it leaking and plugging up.
Run the line under the house not through the cabinets.
The very best way is to add a shut off box right in the wall behind the ref.
http://images.search.yahoo.com/imag...b=14j0km5ku&sigi=1151v09vd&.crumb=cpCLpHoH11V
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Do not use a piercing valve even if that's what it comes with. Tap into the main water line under the house and add a ball valve instead. With a piercing valve there's far to much chance of it leaking and plugging up.
Run the line under the house not through the cabinets.
The very best way is to add a shut off box right in the wall behind the ref.
http://images.search.yahoo.com/imag...b=14j0km5ku&sigi=1151v09vd&.crumb=cpCLpHoH11V
I really have no way to access the main water line without a lot of heartache. This silly slab foundation and all.
 

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It seems most kits come with self piercing saddle valves for water installation. I have flexible aluminum tubing running to my kitchen sink. :(
But you must have a valve under the sink. I'm no plumber, but I'd bet you could hook up a tee of some kind before or after the valve, and run your line out of the tee.

The one thing I do know is that the saddle valves are no longer allowed by code, 'cause they tend to leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don't want to use one either. It seems like a bad idea as well haha. I think something like this would work

What would I get from there to make the connection to the 1/4 inch ice maker line? Installing a shut off valve behind the fridge seems unnecessary as there will be a valve under the sink.
 

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Post a picture of under the sink.
Not the right fitting shown in that picture.
 

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Install a tee in the copper section with the proper valves, 1/4 inch copper to the ice maker hookup, leave some loops of copper(like a slinky) behind the refrigerator so you can pull it out for cleaning and service, put the end of the copper in a bucket have someone open the water valve under the sink to make sure there's no dirt in the line, then hook the line up to the ice maker water line, start the ice maker and throw out the first bin of ice, use the second bin full. Do Not Use Saddle Valve and Plastic.
 

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Install a tee in the copper section with the proper valves, 1/4 inch copper to the ice maker hookup, leave some loops of copper(like a slinky) behind the refrigerator so you can pull it out for cleaning and service, put the end of the copper in a bucket have someone open the water valve under the sink to make sure there's no dirt in the line, then hook the line up to the ice maker water line, start the ice maker and throw out the first bin of ice, use the second bin full. Do Not Use Saddle Valve and Plastic.
great directions :yes::yes:
 

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Install a tee in the copper section with the proper valves, 1/4 inch copper to the ice maker hookup, leave some loops of copper(like a slinky) behind the refrigerator so you can pull it out for cleaning and service, put the end of the copper in a bucket have someone open the water valve under the sink to make sure there's no dirt in the line, then hook the line up to the ice maker water line, start the ice maker and throw out the first bin of ice, use the second bin full. Do Not Use Saddle Valve and Plastic.
great directions :yes::yes:
+1

And to clarify, the diameter of the "slinky" should be about 3 feet, not a 6 inch diameter "slinky".

HRG
 
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