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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I bought some metal tooth bridging for my floor joists for only $.89 and was thinking about replacing all my wood cross bridging with them as I have to remove the current bridging to lay drywall against the subfloor for sound proofing reasons. My question is how well these metal tooth bars work and hold up. Will they perform at least as well as the old wood cross bridging? Thank you.
 

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Mold!! Let's kill it!
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Metal bridging serves the same purpose as wooden bridging. All it does is prevent a joist from trying to roll over (deflect) in case it should be overloaded. Why would you want to replace bridging? The top of the bridging is nailed into place before the subfloor is installed. Trying to nail it in afterwards would be difficult, if not impossible. Solid blocking would be easier to install after the fact than bridging. If the wooden bridging was installed sloppily and is hanging below the bottom of the joists, then I would pull the nails and saw it a little shorter and renail it without loosening the top. Installing drywall against the subfloor is not going to gain you much in soundproofing. Installing a ceiling will do far more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh yes i'm putting in a ceiling as well. I'm just trying to look for the easiest way to replace the bridging after i am done. And the metal tooth bridging is pretty easy to install from what i can tell. Just hammer the teeth in to the joist and poof it's done. Unless i'm missing a step and they're very cheap price wise. I did consider solid blocking and still am but each joist in my old basement is a different width and you want the solid bridge pretty flush with the joists which is not as easy as it sounds.
 

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My neighbor wanted to sound proof his basement. He stuffed FG Bat up in the cells, and I recommended that he put up foam carpet underlayment held up with furring strips above his drywall ceiling, knowing that rubber is extremely lossy. Wow, you cannot believe how this worked. He could crank up his classical music in the basement, and you could hardly hear it upstairs. He called me a genius. He was right. :laughing::laughing::laughing:
 

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There is insulation available that also helps with soundproofing. Much better than your drywall idea. And solid blocking isn't that hard, even if your joist spacing isn't even. One person to cut, one to install. Just not that difficult. And cheaper than the metal things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
All I need to know is if those metal bars will be at least just as supportive as the wood cross bridging has been that's all.
 

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Just as supportive? No. Supportive enough? I would say yes, that's what they are made for.
 

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The problem I see with using them is after you add the drywall to the bottom of the sub floor, as you said you were going to do, then the length of the bridging won't fit the span between the top and bottom of the adjacent joists properly. Also, If I recall, those are designed to go over the tops and bottoms of the joists, not to the insides. The last ones I used had cleats to position them but needed nails to properly install them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sorry you feel that way maintenance but it was my ORIGINAL question. I asked a very specific question. All I wanted was an answer not an endorsement. If you didn't feel like me asking it or think it's a dumb idea then I believe it is you that needs to look elsewhere and move on. Thanks for the ideas though. I will be using a combination of metal bridging and solid blocking where joists cavities are too narrow.
 

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Sorry you feel that way maintenance but it was my ORIGINAL question. I asked a very specific question. All I wanted was an answer not an endorsement. If you didn't feel like me asking it or think it's a dumb idea then I believe it is you that needs to look elsewhere and move on. Thanks for the ideas though. I will be using a combination of metal bridging and solid blocking where joists cavities are too narrow.
Why in the world if you're going to sheetrock the bottom of the subfloor cut out the bridging and not up to it on both ends and fill in a small piece between?

What you are doing makes no sense and is way more work time and money wasted.

Cutting up to each side of the bridging and putting in a all piece or notching in between the bridging is a million times faster and you will have the same results. Cut the small piece nice and tight ...very simple!
 

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The man wants a green suit, so give him a green suit. Maybe he knows something the rest of us dont.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yep I believe now I do. Which is hard, I know, for all the know it alls to grasp. Just because that's not how YOU would do it doesn't make it a hack job. Look I came here with something specific in mind and have been very polite and appreciative of everyone's comments and have noted them so I thank you. However, if you have no more constructional input in the matter then please just don't respond, it's that simple. Your little ego boosting comments have no place here, thank you and Merry Christmas:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
what's so unsafe about replacing wood cross bridging with solid backing and metal cross bridging. you just don't like the idea of how i'm doing it. but the result will be the same. Let's just not argue over the internet like two 15 year olds. I really appreciate everyone's advice I really do. Thank you.
 

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To answer your question. YES the metal bridging will do the same thing as wood bridging. However there are professional people and DYI's and a "word from the wise should be sufficient" There are reasons things are done a certain way: and advice is given to help persons save time and money from doing unnecessary things. As stated the bridging is designed to prevent "roll over of joists" and generally only concern is for 12 inch joists, blocking is a substitute Next to soundproof the floor one of the most effective ways is to create a dead air space thru the use of hat channel ,sound board etc. Sheet rock up into joist bays to acheive your sound proof desires is unorthodox and even a professional installer would have a challenge to obtain acceptable results. Take the advice for what it is worth Good luck
 

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Posts have been removed, please remember our first forum rule; "Users shall treat each other with respect at all times on DIYChatroom.com. Name calling, personal attacks, or other inappropriate behavior will not be allowed and may cause your account to be banned." found in "Privacy Statement" or "Terms of Service" at the bottom of each page, thank you.

I think you are fine using the metal, rather than wood bridging. Some codes require solid blocking, depends on location. Solid is stronger, by far; http://www.ewpa.com/Archive/2004/jun/Paper_278.pdf

Any other questions we can help you with?

Gary
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thank you GBR and jasson that's all I needed:) I'm in the process of doing it now and it's going along easier than I thought, again thanks everyone.
 
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