Metal Door Casings

1063 Views 8 Replies 4 Participants Last post by hand drive, Jan 3, 2016

Dr_Cornwallis

Discussion Starter · Dec 28, 2015

First off, I'm really excited to have become a member here. Most of my google searches typically bring me here so I finally decided to sign up now that my girlfriend and I are in the process of fully renovating our 1960, 1K sqft ranch style home. I'm very fortunate in that I'm a firefighter so I have a lot of time off to get stuff done so it's been moving along nicely for the most part.

We are currently in the process of laying down laminate flooring and when it came time to undercut the jambs/casing, I noticed the casings were metal. I used a dewalt oscillating tool to under cut the casing/jambs however, the casings are flush with the plaster walls and are basically a quarter round/bull nose into the jamb.

I need a way to hide the small gap where the expansion gap juts out from under the door casing. I'm going to be putting down baseboards but that will still leave an ever so small gap where the casing curves. Is there a way to tie in a baseboard with the rounded casing? I've read about making four 22.5 degree cuts but all of the baseboards I've seen would be too thick and would interfere with the door opening/closing.

I'm currently on duty but I'll upload pictures when I get off work tomorrow morning as I'm sure that will help if anyone is having trouble grasping what I'm describing.

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Mingledtrash

· #2 · Dec 29, 2015

Can you get some pictures up?

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Dr_Cornwallis

Discussion Starter · #3 · Dec 31, 2015

Sorry for the delay, I'm working on getting some pics. Been a busy few days!

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Dr_Cornwallis

Discussion Starter · #4 · Dec 31, 2015

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GrayHair

· #5 · Dec 31, 2015

I remember those, although I don't remember them in residential. Once you've determined how much needs to be removed, you can use a die grinder with a reinforced cut-off disc. I strongly recommend a full face shield.

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Dr_Cornwallis

Discussion Starter · #6 · Dec 31, 2015

GrayHair said:
I remember those, although I don't remember them in residential. Once you've determined how much needs to be removed, you can use a die grinder with a reinforced cut-off disc. I strongly recommend a full face shield.

So you would cut them farther up, as in just above the baseboards and then caulk the gap?

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Dr_Cornwallis

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jan 2, 2016

Thought I would give this thread a little bump for some more ideas.

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GrayHair

· #8 · Jan 2, 2016

Personally liking a tight fit (no caulk), I'd take a scrap of flooring, stick a couple of layers of masking tape on it and make a trial cut. When I can slip flooring under the casing without gouging it, I'd call it good. Add layers of masking tape as/if needed; you cut more casing off, but you'd be hard pressed to put it back. And yes, I'm often anal retentive. :smile:

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hand drive

· #9 · Jan 3, 2016

Dr_Cornwallis said:
Thought I would give this thread a little bump for some more ideas.

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your oscillator with a metal blade may cut it or go with a grinder with a metal cut off wheel and cut a small 1/8" above the flooring thickness or even a tight cut if you can manage it. way better to have a tight cut than to caulk it later....

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