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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am writing out of desperation after spending four hours on this problem. Any help would be most appreciated. I have a 5 gang outlet box. The other day a bulb stopped operating. It is controlled by a single switch. Did the obvious installing a new bulb, then a new switch. Crawled up into the attic today and tested the leads coming into the OH socket while simply joining the two wires that would go into the switch. No power at socket. Three of the switches and their respective lights work fine. One never worked from day one. About three years ago I changed out all the switches and went with a Lutron system, with two of the switches being DIVA dimmers. I carefully followed the old wiring and everything has worked OK until the other day. There are no junction boxes in the attic between the "bad" socket and the switch. I don't think a photo would be appropriate, but I traced all wires and there are nine wires going into the box and five switches. Of course I made sure all wires were secure:
Of the wires, eight are 12/2 with ground and one is 12/3 with ground: Here's how they lay out
1)White to bundle with 7 other whites, black to a red on the DIVA Switch which has an unused red and a black that goes to the black bundle.
2)White to a "mini bundle with the white from #3. Black to bad switch.
3)White to a "mini bundle with the white from #2. Black unused. Red to bad switch.
4)White to bundle. Black to bundle.
5)White to bundle. Black to DIVA #2 black. Red from DIVA#2 to black bundle. One red on switch unused.
6)White to bundle. Black to bundle.
7)White to bundle. Black to the silver connector on switch and from the brass terminal, a black wire extends to the black bundle. This is the switch that has never done anything since the day my electrician wired it in 2000 (and yes, I've tested the outlets nearby, but it operates none of them).
8)White to bundle. Black to bundle.
9)White to bundle. Black (painted white) to brass terminal on switch. Other brass terminal has a black wire which leads to the black bundle. There are no silver terminals on this switch.
I understand this may not be a simple question, but would certainly appreciate any help here.
 

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I got an ice cream headache trying to understand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did you verify power from all breakers at the panel? I had to ask.
Yes and a everything else in that 5 gang box works and they are all on the same circuit (but I did go double check the panel just to see if there was some funky wiring whereby a different breaker was used). Will post a diagram after I draw something legible. Thanks for the suggestion
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That was one of my first thoughts, but I did retighten all the connections with the non-working light in the on position figuring that a little twist might at least get it to flicker. No luck. I have just completed a wiring diagram and once I figure out how to post it, it's going up.
 

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That was one of my first thoughts, but I did retighten all the connections with the non-working light in the on position figuring that a little twist might at least get it to flicker. No luck. I have just completed a wiring diagram and once I figure out how to post it, it's going up.
See below go advanced and then find manage attachments.
 

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Just as I was figuring out I needed to resize, there you were, Neal. Thank you!
Now I hope folks can make some sense out of the drawing.
Is it the pantry You are having a problem with?

Which is the cable going to the light #7 the 3 wire? Or# 8 the two wire?

It would appear power is coming from a different source on the one that does not go to the light.
 

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Is there 120V between hot and ground at the light fixture (not hot and neutral)?

Do you have 120V going into the non working switch? Is there 120V on the switched output, at the switch?

If there's voltage there, and your neutral connections are good and tight, then it would seem you have a break in the cable somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Is it the pantry You are having a problem with?

Which is the cable going to the light #7 the 3 wire? Or# 8 the two wire?

It would appear power is coming from a different source on the one that does not go to the light.
Yes, it's the pantry. I agree that it's weird that power is coming from different wire sources. I can attest that it was working just days ago and, apart from disconnecting the old switch, I have left everything as is. My guess is that the #8 goes to the light since at the light it's a 12/2. I was thinking about simply hooking the white and black from #8 to the switch just to see what happened but thought I'd see if someone had other thoughts. Thank you for your help on this, Neal!
 

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Yes, it's the pantry. I agree that it's weird that power is coming from different wire sources. I can attest that it was working just days ago and, apart from disconnecting the old switch, I have left everything as is. My guess is that the #8 goes to the light since at the light it's a 12/2. I was thinking about simply hooking the white and black from #8 to the switch just to see what happened but thought I'd see if someone had other thoughts. Thank you for your help on this, Neal!

You have 8 cables and five switches, so 3 are power sources, steel power from one that is working?
If the power is on the 3 wire, was it originally wired as a 3 way, have you worked on another switch anywhere in the house lately?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Is there 120V between hot and ground at the light fixture (not hot and neutral)?

Do you have 120V going into the non working switch? Is there 120V on the switched output, at the switch?

If there's voltage there, and your neutral connections are good and tight, then it would seem you have a break in the cable somewhere.
I have neither 120V at the switch nor fixture. When I tested the hot and ground at the fixture I got no reading on my multimeter (which I tested in a working outlet before doing the above).
 
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