DIY Home Improvement Forum banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I want to make these two Farm House Table Legs to use as end pieces for a outdoor patio cabinet with counter top and no doors ... shelves will be exposed.

Questions:

1.) How do you measure the length for the miter cuts on the X to get a tight fit like in the photo??

2.) Do you set the miter saw to 45° for all of the cuts?

Thanks
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
14,941 Posts
As shown, that is not going to be a 45° angle. Before the brace is attached the box may not be all 90° angles and unless the box sides are perfect calculating will be hit or miss. Very good example where cutting some scrap and test fitting to get your tight fit is best. However, over time wood dries and shrinks so how you secure it is important.

Draw it out and identify the related triangles and use Larry's approach.
A² = B² + C² Where A is the hypotenuse.

Bud
 
  • Like
Reactions: etsherman

· Contractor/Engineer
Joined
·
3,142 Posts
EDITL

Sorry - I just noticed that the prior posters said the same thing - I just got tired of reading replies by folks advising how to use geometry to solve a problem that should have been finished hours before the calculator was even found... So, I simply replied rather than read EVERY reply...


Build the "box."

Lay the X out flat on a table and then put the box on top (on the table so you don't have to bend over - I'm 70). Trace the angles with a sharp pencil or utility knife blade (to make a narrow line).

Cut on the line and assemble.

Or, as others have inferred, go get your geometry book - the teacher did tell all of use we'd need geometry in the future.

If you want the joints to tighten a little more, put some water on them after assembly and the wood will swell at the ends. (old trick - that could require new sanding when the grain is raised - but can tighten the joist - you can use a damp cloth and iron if you want)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks all for the suggestions and comments. Based on previous calculations and the rectangles will probably not be perfectly square ... probably best to lay the box over the X brace and mark as described below.

1.) Build the rectangle first.
2.) Lay the box over one member of the X brace, say the right side and position correctly. Mark, cut and place this member inside the box.
3.) Lay the box over the second member (left side) with the right side member in place. Position, mark and cut the corner angles top, bottom and middle. Position them where you want them to land inside the box and fasten together.

Since the X members intersect not overlap ... it just seems logical to measure/cut individually. If there is another way ... please advise.

Thanks
 

· Contractor/Engineer
Joined
·
3,142 Posts
If we need accuracy we never cut ON the line. When we do it'll be short and our reference is gone with the saw dust.:vs_laugh:
Sorry - but at 70 years old, there are many things that I consider to be "common body of knowledge."

I suppose on a DIY forum I should make sure any ASSumptions I make are not also making me into one!

Yes, blades have a kerf.

And it's far easier to make material shorter than to make it longer...

Measure twice, cut three times, get replacement material and swear often. Always worked for me when I was a contractor.

Thanks for helping to make the post more accurate for OP.
 
  • Like
Reactions: SeniorSitizen

· retired framer
Joined
·
72,327 Posts
Thanks all for the suggestions and comments. Based on previous calculations and the rectangles will probably not be perfectly square ... probably best to lay the box over the X brace and mark as described below.

1.) Build the rectangle first.
2.) Lay the box over one member of the X brace, say the right side and position correctly. Mark, cut and place this member inside the box.
3.) Lay the box over the second member (left side) with the right side member in place. Position, mark and cut the corner angles top, bottom and middle. Position them where you want them to land inside the box and fasten together.

Since the X members intersect not overlap ... it just seems logical to measure/cut individually. If there is another way ... please advise.

Thanks
Make sure the box corners are square by comparing the corner to to corner measurements both ways.

2.) Lay the box over one member of the X brace, say the right side and position correctly. Mark, cut and place this member inside the box.
Cut 2 like the same.
Put them both in the box in opposite directions and mark out where to cut them or it.
 

· Naildriver
Joined
·
24,970 Posts
I suppose on a DIY forum I should make sure any ASSumptions I make are not also making me into one!
You just like coming close, right?? There is no need to diss someone who uses geometry to solve problems. I use it all the time in my business. I DID learn how to use it and it helps a lot.

Wetting a joint will swell it until it dries. Where did you come up with that one??

Most of us on the forum are either at or over your age, so it doesn't enter into our advice protocol. I'm 71, still work every day in construction, so we do what we can do.

Live long and prosper :eek:
 

· Registered
Joined
·
303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Make sure the box corners are square by comparing the corner to to corner measurements both ways.

2.) Lay the box over one member of the X brace, say the right side and position correctly. Mark, cut and place this member inside the box.
Cut 2 like the same.
Put them both in the box in opposite directions and mark out where to cut them or it.
That was my first approach until I thought about if the box was not square and one might need to be a bit longer or shorter. Looking at it though any difference will or should not make that much of a difference. That's where wood filler and caulk comes in handy!!! :biggrin2::biggrin2::biggrin2:
 

· retired framer
Joined
·
72,327 Posts
That was my first approach until I thought about if the box was not square and one might need to be a bit longer or shorter. Looking at it though any difference will or should not make that much of a difference. That's where wood filler and caulk comes in handy!!! :biggrin2::biggrin2::biggrin2:
No, you make sure it is square when you build it or correct it to square when you check the corner to corner.
 

· retired framer
Joined
·
72,327 Posts
Here I have laid a block along side the red line to find the point for the blue line.

You need the blue line to find the angle of the cut.
What is the math short cut to find the blue line.
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
8,139 Posts
I could do the math to find the angle and establish a measuring line, but I would do it the easy way and square it with a rafter square, lay the boards on it, draw a line, and cut beside the line.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
16,367 Posts
OMGAWD, couldn't we have a blast with this old frame building built around 1900 before electricity came to town. Yes, those men may have known Pythagoras personally but i'm betten they didn't go that route using their hand saws building this front facade . :biggrin2:115 years of snow ,wind and hail weather couldn't take her down so it was finally torn down around 2015.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 25 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top