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Usually Confused
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When finished filling a cycle (or when you turn off the cycle via the control knob) the cold water takes several seconds to shut off and shuts off quite slowly. Hot water seems normal. There is a bit of a noise from the valve but I don't really recall if that is something new. Can I assume (a) the two water control solenoids shown in the wiring dwg. are part of the Water Inlet Valve Assembly and (2) the cold solenoid and/or the valve body are failing? No obvious debris or obstruction at inlets. If not, any other ideas? Tnx
Maytag Performa Top Load Model PAVT244AWW.
 

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#1 HAWKEYE FAN
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yes you need the water inlet valve, make sure to turn the water supply valves off until you get the washer fixed. That thing could start filling in the middle of the night.
 

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Usually Confused
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Discussion Starter #3
yes you need the water inlet valve, make sure to turn the water supply valves off until you get the washer fixed. That thing could start filling in the middle of the night.
Great point! Thanks. My head says the solenoid can't throw unless a current is applied to it, but I'm the guy writing in for advice.
 

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Great point! Thanks. My head says the solenoid can't throw unless a current is applied to it, but I'm the guy writing in for advice.
You are correct. The same water pressure is applied to both sides of a rubber diaphragm, but the area exposed to that pressure is larger on one side of the diaphragm than the other, creating a net force that holds the diaphragm closed.

When electric power is applied to the solenoid, it causes a plug to pull out of a hole on the large area side of the diaphragm causing the pressure on the large area side to drop and the pressure on the small area side to push the diaphragm open and for water to run into the washer.

Once the washer is full, the power is cut to the solenoid and a spring pushes that plug back into the hole on the large area side of the diagram. Once the pressure equalize on both sides of the diaphragm, the net force pushes the diaphragm down to shut off flow of water into the washer again.

But, just to be safe, shut off the water valves to the washer until you get that water mixing valve replaced.
 
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Great point! Thanks. My head says the solenoid can't throw unless a current is applied to it, but I'm the guy writing in for advice.
Correct, but the problem is slow shutoff on the cold water when current is cut off and not when current is applied. The smallest particle of debris can cause this because that spring inside is about as tender as a Humming Bird's liver being it only needs to combat differential pressure.

The hot water side is seldom affected because that debris, sometimes nearly microscopic, with a specific gravity greater than water dropped out in the hot water tank. That's why I've had a stripped down water heater tank in my well system for the past 30 years to act as a sediment tank before the filter.

That washing machine probably says automatic on it somewhere but we never leave home with it in operation. Same for the dishwasher.
 
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