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Or use above. Mitering is precise work. Search for "stair tread bracket" or such. Above looks like the bracket stays back for about 1/4" reveal? Stringer can be made with finished lumber and if using a skirt, make sure other trims will match the skirt thickness.
 

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retired framer
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When a stringer will be exposed and painted, as in the photo, what material is it typically cut from?

View attachment 681135
If you are building against the far wall like that put a 2x4 between the bottom of the string and the wall.
So later the drywall and the trim board only have to slide in to the 2x4 with out cutting to fit stairs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you are building against the far wall like that put a 2x4 between the bottom of the string and the wall.
So later the drywall and the trim board only have to slide in to the 2x4 with out cutting to fit stairs.
That side, I got covered (doing as you said). It's the exposed side that's been tripping me up.
 

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retired framer
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That side, I got covered (doing as you said). It's the exposed side that's been tripping me up.
Just build the stairs like a framer then change you hat and figure how ti finish them..
We do all measurements from sup floor to subfloor with rough framing plywood so all the finish work goes on top or in front.
 

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After framing, tape off the bottom of the treads. Make a cardboard template and cut some sheetrock - install, tape, texture, prime and paint, then cut away the tape... Fits perfectly.

The other alternative is to rabbit the underside of the treads 1/2" and let your wallboard into the rabbit. Then, the only real problem area is meeting the risers.

For wood, I'd extend the riser and rabbit both the back of the riser and bottom of the tread so any variance is hidden in the rabbits. If you're building stain-grade stairs you probably have better techniques.
 
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