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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I posted this in another forum, but I did not get as many answers as I hoped so here goes another shot. This project is in Atlanta GA and is subject to IPC 2018 now.

Background:

We are planning to make some extra room for the master bathroom and are planning to remove the existing tub/shower combo to install instead a stand-up shower with a separate claw foot tub. I have decided to model everything in 3D instead of trying to figure it out in the crawl space. The existing drain system of the house is also ABS and I would like to stick with that. This also means that I must order my materials online as no local stores near me carry ABS anymore. This was another reason to go CAD first.

Below is the current plumbing:

(am I correct in thinking the drain for the current sink, which does have a vent stack, also vents the current toilet as a wet vent?)


Next, the proposed new layout:




The green wet vent shown above is the drain coming off of a sink which is dry vented up.


Questions:
My questions have to do with wet venting. I will be adding one additional drain and would like to avoid adding an additional vent stack if possible. According to the international plumbing code, I know that a horizontal wet vent is allowed. I've also had many discussions with plumbers stating that a water closet needs to be the most down stream connection of a wet vented system. Here are my questions:

1. What size does the dry vent need to be before it becomes a wet vent? (My understanding of the code is that the dry vent before becoming a wet vent needs to be sized for the largest pipe it will be venting as a wet vet. In this case it needs to be able to vent the 3" pipe for the toilet.)

2. Is the capacity of the vent (how many dfu) determined by the dry vent that leads to the wet vent or only the wet vent? Does what I propose here have enough capacity with the new tub?

Finally I'll post a larger image of what I have mocked up following a picture of what it was previously. Please feel free to critique it and point out any mistakes I may have. Any help would be very much welcomed.

Old (I only roughly modeled this just to get it close to what is existing so it's not exact)


New


 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
I forgot to mention that this is a single story house on a crawl space.





Here are a few more angles:


View from the side: (closest line is the line coming from the lavatory serving as a wet vent).



View from opposite side: (Closest line is the exiting main with 3in vent stack is shown popping up with the the p-trap for the shower on the right).



Another angle from the back: (The existing main is on the left with the closest p-trap on the left being the shower, then the w/c to the right, then the existing lav on the far right).

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
no this is for my house.
Just a lot of little things that spell "" assignment""

Like the stand-up-urinal divider for one.
And its in front of the door.
Oh haha, thats a divider between the sink and toilet. I'm not changing that or its location so I didn't model the physical sink. there is no urinal in this bathroom lol.

do you see mistakes? id love to address them before I get started.
 

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The tub, toilet, shower, and sink, all should have P-Traps.

But why even go through all that.

Try this out for size and make life easier with less time working.



PSSSSST.

Take the drywall off the one wall so you don't have to crawl under the house to drill holes and run pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If anything the toilet should be separated from the shower, tub, and maybe sink depending on room.

Maybe the toilet should be inbetween the wall and urinal separator.?
This is an existing bathroom that I'm simply converting from a tub/shower combo to a separate tub and separate shower. The divider wall is existing, it also has the switch for the exhaust fan and second light on it and may also be structural so I will be keeping it where it is. The lav already has a p-trap on it that I will not be removing. The toilet is also staying in the same place. The first picture I showed is the existing plumbing, the following pictures are my attempt at making the changes work with what is there without having to redo more then I need to.


I also have pretty easy access as its a generous crawl space (about 3ft height) so I do not mind going down there and have already spent quite some time taking all of my measurements.



So is there anything not up to code with the way I'm doing it? Are my assumptions of the wet vent correct?


I appreciate your response. I just want to do this so that I do not have venting issues, while not moving things more then I need to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
The tub, toilet, shower, and sink, all should have P-Traps.

But why even go through all that.

Try this out for size and make life easier with less time working.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mLXh1TscxBc


PSSSSST.

Take the drywall off the one wall so you don't have to crawl under the house to drill holes and run pipe.
Thanks for the suggestion. I thought about going with one of these when I added a sink in our laundry room. I decided not to because the pump will eventually go bad and I would just rather deal with all this plumbing once. Plus I think its a much cleaner (no pun intended) setup to just have gravity draining.


Also, everything I've added shows a P-trap (as I said before the lav already has a P-trap that will not be touched). Toilets don't need P-traps since its built in.


Maybe someone with direct plumbing experience can chime in and see if what I have proposed above will pass inspection and not cause headaches. Thanks all.
 

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Like the stand-up-urinal divider for one.
And its in front of the door.
Ha, got it now! I think that panel is a medicine cabinet to the left of the vanity (vanity not shown) on the wall the door backstops on, but it does look like its either floating in air or attached to the vanity wall like a urinal screen, depending which side of the Rorschach test you're on.

OP, make sure you have 30" clear for the toilet (15" each side of centerline) and 21" clear (maybe more from local AHJ) from the front. A claw tub will stick out pretty far, especially with the space needed off the back wall. Also the shower door interfering with the tub when opened.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ha, got it now! I think that panel is a medicine cabinet to the left of the vanity (vanity not shown) on the wall the door backstops on, but it does look like its either floating in air or attached to the vanity wall like a urinal screen, depending which side of the Rorschach test you're on.

OP, make sure you have 30" clear for the toilet (15" each side of centerline) and 21" clear (maybe more from local AHJ) from the front. A claw tub will stick out pretty far, especially with the space needed off the back wall. Also the shower door interfering with the tub when opened.

Thank you very much for some good information. Yeah Idk why the other poster was so fixated on a urinal screen, I labeled it as a lav in that area in the original post.


But Yes I have 15.5" from finished surfaces to either side of the toilet (did this just to be safe) and the model which has the claw foot tub I've purchased to scale shows 33.5" clearance from the front of the toilet. I think the layout is pretty good.


The shower door also is the type like this: LINK
It is the type that opens from the corner and the doors are on slides so it will in no way swing out and interfere with what's there.


Thank you again for the added info. Do you see anything wrong with the way I've proposed my plumbing? I think I've got my bases covered, would love a double check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just a lot of little things that spell "" assignment""

Like the stand-up-urinal divider for one.
And its in front of the door.

ok I see where the confusion is now lol. that is the window. I put it in there for tile measurements. It just looks weird from the previous picture. See below:


 

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