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i'm getting ready to install some Robinson Rock natural rock inside my house around my fireplace. i replaced the drywall with a hardy backerboard type material. do i need to install a weather barrier between the backerboard and the metal lath? i've heard mixed reviews. i want to do this the right way so i'd love some feedback from the pros or anyone who has done this.
thanks in advance.
 

· Concrete & Masonry
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I'm assuming Robinson Rock is a brand name of natural thin veneer stone, & if that is the case:

- No need for any barrier inside.
- Really no need to remove drywall, you could have just installed the galvanized lathe over it.
- If you already have the tile board up, you don't really need the galvanized lathe. Besides, it can be a real pain to fasten the lathe through the durock. Merely use a bonding agent in the mortar to adhere directly to durock.
 

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No need for a weather barrier. As I have suggested before in this forum, for an inside application of veneer stone I find it alot easier to set the stone on the cement backer board with thinset. No need for wire and a scratch coat.
 

· Concrete & Masonry
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I've never lost any stone long term (never after the first few houres) inside. On durock, you may get a few that don't want to stay in the first few minutes, but after that, they should be fine. Also, I will never lay NTV without a bonding agent in the mortar. A few ounces per batch makes a huge difference in the mud, or you could use the thinset that NJ could recomend. The major difference between laying NTV & cultured, at least in my experiances, is you HAVE to lay NTV from the bottom up BED joints in place right away, meaning no going back later to grout.

I will admit that I've lost stone long term on the exterior of a house once though. It was cultured stone directly over a poured foundation wall at a partially exposed basement. About 25 stones fell over the winter, & 25 more were questionable when we went to replace the stone. We had laid the stone directly over the wall with no prep & my guys were having a hard time getting them stay in the first place. I should have known better in the first place, but I'd rather know what it takes to make the stone job fail on a small scale so I can have a better understanding what makes the stone job last long term. Very cheap lesson learned. On a side note, we did lose another 25 or so stones on this same house shortly after we set them originally. The drywallers had showed up late morning & had started hanging drywall on an exterior wall with nails. Unfortunately, this was a big house, & this hanger was FAST with his hammer! By the time someone got to him to tell him to stop pounding, the damage was done. Again not a big deal, but by this point, we were ready to get the job wrapped up & move on.
 

· Concrete & Masonry
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NTV = Natural thin veneer, or any natural stone (real stone) sawed to approx. 1" thick. Cultured stone is actually a lightweight concrete poured into molds & colored to resemble stone. I've never seen the Robinson Rock, but heard of it & believe it is NTV, but I could be wrong. All of the NTV stone we've ever used comes from a local stone quarry who produces 95% of the NTV they sell.

Durock is just another brand name of tile board underlayment, much the same as Hardi backerboard.
 
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