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It can be used on a shed. 3/8 is pretty thin though, even thinner on the groved portion. If you want to go directly over the studs 16"oc is the max spacing. Personally, I wouldn't use it.
 

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Why would you not first sheath the wall, wrap with house wrap then side it?
What's to stop the wall from racking if there's no sheathing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It can be used on a shed. 3/8 is pretty thin though, even thinner on the groved portion. If you want to go directly over the studs 16"oc is the max spacing. Personally, I wouldn't use it.
yeah, 3/8 is thin. thats why i'm asking.

Why would you not first sheath the wall, wrap with house wrap then side it?
What's to stop the wall from racking if there's no sheathing?
i have 2 buildings, house and garage, that are vinyl sided. i want a contrast.

Obviously he's wanting to do this on the cheap...It's only a shed.


Let in braces.
bingo

i don't want to do that. way to much work. is there any other way ?

i just found 7/16, hows that.
https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...4438196550-c-5829.htm?tid=9060526741878390522
 

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If no bracing the walls need to be SOLID, That is not able to twist in the wind, or accidently backed into, or even ran into by a person.

So use a plywood (1/2 inch) wrapping to strengthen it before using the siding.

And 16" on center if you want it to stay attached.


ED
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
yeah. i'm trying to keep costs down. i know ya have to do what ya have to do. but i am trying to avoid $500 for this.

i would just do T1-11. but whatever i do needs to be moisture resistant. as it will be kinda close to the ground.

ideas are welcome.
 

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Please don't interpret this as a snide answer.

My policy has always been "You can do something low cost several times because it keeps falling apart, OR you can DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME and be done with it."

Spend a few $ more and have it outlast you, So your kids can say DAD built that very well.


ED
 

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JUSTA MEMBER
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Smartside is a very good product, it is just not as strong as a plywood sheath.

It looks good, it is weather resistant, ages well unpainted, or paints well.

Bracing is needed with it though, either a plywood underlayment, or cross bracing (too much work you said),

or metal strapping wrapped underneath, corner to corner all the way around.

ED
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
oh. the rear and garage side, they are not going to be seen. so i was planning on 1/2 AC2 plywood .
also. the inside is going to have a lot of built in shelving = 2x4's and plywood screwed to the walls.

think this would add enough rigidity to be able to use the 3/8 SS on the other 2 sides ?
 

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oh. the rear and garage side, they are not going to be seen. so i was planning on 1/2 AC2 plywood .
also. the inside is going to have a lot of built in shelving = 2x4's and plywood screwed to the walls.

think this would add enough rigidity to be able to use the 3/8 SS on the other 2 sides ?
Plywood bracing inside or outside, either will work fine.

So the 3/8 smart side will be fine for the remaining 2 sides view.

ED
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
ok. i have 1 problem, perhaps. i cannot use one long board = window.
so, being the engineer that i am. i can do 4 smaller boards in the corners = say 3' in and 3' up/down. wall is 7' tall.
 
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