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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I have a Bradford White water heater that is having a short water supply issue.

Model: m1tw50s6fbn
Size: 50 gallon
Type: natural gas

Throughout a shower I have to slowly dial up the heat up to maintain a comfortable water temp. I’d say about every 5 minutes.

Things I’ve tried thus far:
Cleaned and vacuumed area around water heater. Removed burner and cleaned burner. Cleaned grate. Completely drained and flushed the water heater multiple times.

Water from the water heater is clear, minimal sediment, no rusty water. No leak anywhere. Flame color mostly blue. No Smell or weird taste in the water. No unusual sounds from the heater. It’s 12 years old. Should I replace the dip tube or attempt any other interventions in your opinion?
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Well you certainly have kept up on the maintenance of it. It looks in great shape. But it is over 12 years old. So you have age as a big factor.

A new one of those defenders with power vent run about 1800 bucks or so and that's if you install it. Dip tube runs about 30 bucks.

Was anode rod(s) ever changed? They run about 30 bucks each. That model of defender I think has two of them.

Hard to tell what is actually going on inside. Your theory of dip tube sounds about right and would explain your issue. You have unions on the inlets and outlet, so it would be an easy check/replace. No cutting or soldering required.
 

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How hot is the water set at the tank? Turn it up? Spend some cash and insulate the hot water pipe as much as you can easily.
Change dip tube. Puts cold water lower in the tank
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well you certainly have kept up on the maintenance of it. It looks in great shape. But it is over 12 years old. So you have age as a big factor.

A new one of those defenders with power vent run about 1800 bucks or so and that's if you install it. Dip tube runs about 30 bucks.

Was anode rod(s) ever changed? They run about 30 bucks each. That model of defender I think has two of them.

Hard to tell what is actually going on inside. Your theory of dip tube sounds about right and would explain your issue. You have unions on the inlets and outlet, so it would be an easy check/replace. No cutting or soldering required.
The anode has been changed frequently.I think I’m going to change the anode and dip tube and go from there. Thank you,I appreciate the advice.
 

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I also believe you are on the right track with the dip tube.
Also....do you have a thermometer to actually check the temperature of the water you are getting?
Is this only happening at one location?
At 12 years you could be already on borrowed time.
And it is entirely possible the gas control valve may not be working properly.
Shop around before you buy another water heater.
Power vented units start closer to $1200 if you are able to install it yourself.
And judging by your posts I suspect you have the knowledge to do so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I also believe you are on the right track with the dip tube.
Also....do you have a thermometer to actually check the temperature of the water you are getting?
Is this only happening at one location?
At 12 years you could be already on borrowed time.
And it is entirely possible the gas control valve may not be working properly.
Shop around before you buy another water heater.
Power vented units start closer to $1200 if you are able to install it yourself.
And judging by your posts I suspect you have the knowledge to do so.
I do have a thermometer. However, I haven’t checked the actual temperature. How do you recommend I do this? Do I simply turn the shower on as hot as possible and see if it reads 130 as that is what the hot water heater is set to.

I’ve only noticed the decline in hot water, and our downstairs shower in the kitchen sink. I have not assessed the hot water in the upstairs shower yet.

is there a way to check the integrity of the gas control valve?

Thank you for your replies. It is appreciated.
 

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I do have a thermometer. However, I haven’t checked the actual temperature. How do you recommend I do this? Do I simply turn the shower on as hot as possible and see if it reads 130 as that is what the hot water heater is set to.

I’ve only noticed the decline in hot water, and our downstairs shower in the kitchen sink. I have not assessed the hot water in the upstairs shower yet.

is there a way to check the integrity of the gas control valve?

Thank you for your replies. It is appreciated.
Yes, run the hot water over the thermometer see how close it is to your gas control valve setting. 120 -130 degrees is good.

In your opening post you say hot water runs out in about 5 minutes or so. Imo, that's usually indicative of a dip tube issue. However, sediment can build up on the probe of the gas control valve effecting the temp as well.
 
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