Are you certain you weren't starting my Honda generator the dealer won't warranty.:biggrin2::biggrin2::biggrin2:
Low grade sputter & popping on startup
Another Goodman Natural Gas, 80%-er sputters and pops a little upon startup, but disappears shortly after. Did not have an opportunity to watch it during, yet. Partner will be coming to look at this one. This a gas pressure problem possibly?
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Dirty burners, low gas pressure or too high gas pressure, dirty orifice(s). Cracked heat exchanger on the older Goodman/Janitrols.
Brass adapter on this valve is in the OUT pressure tap in preparation for manometer connection. Red arrow points to an open threaded port and at the bottom of this port is a tiny hole, probably rectangular-shaped, unless my eyes deceived me.
Grateful to know what this port is for. If there was ever a plug in it, I wasn't the one who removed it. Just not up for looking this up tonight, if anyone would help, por favor... (I'm not Hispanic).
Grateful to know what this port is for. If there was ever a plug in it, I wasn't the one who removed it. Just not up for looking this up tonight, if anyone would help, por favor... (I'm not Hispanic).
Pretty sure it is a vent port that goes on top of the regulator diaphram. Should have that info in "The Fundamentals" book.:wink2:
The threaded part is if they want to add a accessory to it to make it a step open valve or some other feature. Those valves also get used for Commercial stoves or dryers etc and have different configs/applications beside furnaces.
The threaded part is if they want to add a accessory to it to make it a step open valve or some other feature. Those valves also get used for Commercial stoves or dryers etc and have different configs/applications beside furnaces.
Is this valve adjustable (manifold pressure)? It's model number is not listed on White Rodgers web site. Was looking for its manual. I'll try a different search for it.
Yes it is, the screw is right above that port under the brass cap with that slot in it.
Lots of times the model # is a OEM model #. Meaning W/R made a special batch/run/series for them only. VERY common with Carrier valves to have their own W/R #.
Lots of times the model # is a OEM model #. Meaning W/R made a special batch/run/series for them only. VERY common with Carrier valves to have their own W/R #.
That's the cap I tried to take out. Had a pretty large screwdriver, but apparently not large enough. You can see the damage I did to the slot. I probably should've lied and said somebody else did it, but probably only grasshoppas do that sort of thing, and you would know I lied! It's very tight.
Someone also really cranked on OUT Pressure TAP plug also, or they had put a little thread seal around the top edge. Or maybe that's normal? Almost gave up on that one, and I'm no weakling. No damage to plug, or my Allen bit. Just had to hold the pressure on it and watch closely until it started to move. Was really a bear, honest *****.
Now I think about it, long handle allen wrench would have been better (leverage).
Someone also really cranked on OUT Pressure TAP plug also, or they had put a little thread seal around the top edge. Or maybe that's normal? Almost gave up on that one, and I'm no weakling. No damage to plug, or my Allen bit. Just had to hold the pressure on it and watch closely until it started to move. Was really a bear, honest *****.
Now I think about it, long handle allen wrench would have been better (leverage).
Tap lightly all around the edge of the brass cap screw? Penetrating oil? (nope, might get into the adjustment screw part) Larger screwdriver? TNT?That's the cap I tried to take out. Had a pretty large screwdriver, but apparently not large enough. You can see the damage I did to the slot. I probably should've lied and said somebody else did it, but probably only grasshoppas do that sort of thing, and you would know I lied! It's very tight.
Someone also really cranked on OUT Pressure TAP plug also, or they had put a little thread seal around the top edge. Or maybe that's normal? Almost gave up on that one, and I'm no weakling. No damage to plug, or my Allen bit. Just had to hold the pressure on it and watch closely until it started to move. Was really a bear, honest *****.
Now I think about it, long handle allen wrench would have been better (leverage).
Call a tech to sort this out; very dangerous having posts telling how to check gas pressure.
This is not something i would ever attempt.
This is not something i would ever attempt.
I agree, and there is a tech coming back again today (my partner). I was just trying to prepare it for him. I'm not dangerous like I sound, just got a little slaphappy last night when posting. Thx for jumping in...Call a tech to sort this out; very dangerous having posts telling how to check gas pressure.
This is not something i would ever attempt.
Damp basement?
Sounds like all those fittings are corroded in.
Righty>tighty
Lefty>loosey.:vs_bulb::wink2:
Sounds like all those fittings are corroded in.
Righty>tighty
Lefty>loosey.:vs_bulb::wink2:
I would imagine it would be, although it didn't feel damp today. However, there was no apparent corrosion on the surfaces of those particular items, but I reckon the threads could still be susceptible, maybe?Damp basement?
Sounds like all those fittings are corroded in.
Righty>tighty
Lefty>loosey.:vs_bulb::wink2:
Utility room is 10' x 10' with concrete floor originally, that's now chewed up concrete floor (gravely-like in places (maybe they have, or had, water problems coming thru the old concrete block walls. Lots of dust down there. Burners (interior, bottom surfaces) had a clinging-type coating of dust underlying a thin layer of loose dust. After they were cleaned, no more snap, crackle & pop. Zero.
Manifold pressure wasn't measured, because partner was depending on my manometer, but it wouldn't read correctly. Not sure why, but maybe cause it was sitting in a canvas bag, located in the path of a cold draft last night. Flame characteristics were good. New one (little use, I mean -- over a year old). Fieldpiece SDMN-5 or something like that
Prior to the chimney blockage being cleaned, the shelf, I call it, which is apparently a horizontal heat shield (or maybe it's just a shelf for the rollout switches and their wiring) indirectly located over the burners (in between the burners and the gas valve that's on top) is no longer HOT, at least at. and near. its front edge. It seems too much heat from the blocked flue connection to chimney was backing up to the extent of abnormally heating up that shelf.
Burners and other parts had a clinging-type coating of dust. Had been watching for flame disturbance at blower ON point, during initial stage of checking out unit, but no flame movement.
Also pulled the A-coil out of plenum (not being used, no line-set or condenser unit on site). It was actually sitting crooked in plenum, causing the bottom-front face of plenum panel to be improperly joined with the sloped panel immediately below it, bowing it out some at the S-lock joint, which was a bit loose and taped to compensate, apparently.
All is apparently hunkey dorey at this point.
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