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I have gas!
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Discussion Starter #1
Again with the portico project.
I'm extending the gable end of the roof out about 12-14". Do I need to add lookout rafters so that the fly rafter has something to hang on to other than just the ridge board and fascia trim?
The overall width is 93" (from bird's mouth to bird's mouth) and I'm using 2x6 stock for the rafters and 2x for the ridge. I don't want to support the rafter or ridge board on the gable end because I want to fill the space with glass. I'll be using rafter ties high up, however.
If I do need to add lookout rafters, can I notch the 2x6 rafter out by 1 1/2" and lay the 2x4 on the flat or will that remove too much structure?

The old portico (shown) extended out about 6" but was just attached to the roof sheathing and fascia trim.
 

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I have gas!
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Discussion Starter #2
Is it safe to put a couple of 1 1/2" notchs in a 2x6 rafter?
 

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That's the traditional way it's done. Cut the notch so the 2x4 is snug in the opening.
Ron
 

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Again with the portico project.
I'm extending the gable end of the roof out about 12-14". Do I need to add lookout rafters so that the fly rafter has something to hang on to other than just the ridge board and fascia trim?
The overall width is 93" (from bird's mouth to bird's mouth) and I'm using 2x6 stock for the rafters and 2x for the ridge. I don't want to support the rafter or ridge board on the gable end because I want to fill the space with glass. I'll be using rafter ties high up, however.
If I do need to add lookout rafters, can I notch the 2x6 rafter out by 1 1/2" and lay the 2x4 on the flat or will that remove too much structure?
I am trying to do the exact same thing, but with 2x8 rafters. I'll see if anyone else responds to your thread.
 

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General Contractor
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For short rafters, using "lookouts" isn't necessary, but most of us follow the basic rule of 2 ft on center....since this is the underside of the soffits, typically.
 

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I have gas!
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Since this is a small roof, I think I can get away with just 2x6 blocking. If I understand it correctly, I'll be cutting 10.5" blocks of 2x6 and nail through the last rafter to the end grain of the block and install 16 or 24 and do the same thing on the fly rafter. Does that sound right.

For short rafters, using "lookouts" isn't necessary, but most of us follow the basic rule of 2 ft on center....since this is the underside of the soffits, typically.
If you don't have any lookout rafters is the only structural part of the fly rafter the ridge and the fascia trim? I would think that if there were any reason to be walking around up there, you could break it off.

Here's where I'm at with it at this point. It's a real slow process with me.
 

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Restorations
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clutch, I would suggest you install a 2x6 across your rafter tails parellel to your ridge rafter. Make it the same length as the ridge,use 2x6 from this to the ridge. this adds strength and is a good base for your ply. then install 1x gutterboard on the face . put in another rafter for support in the center and use 3/4 sheathing . It will be plenty strong. Joe.
 

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I have gas!
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Discussion Starter #8
clutch, I would suggest you install a 2x6 across your rafter tails parellel to your ridge rafter. Make it the same length as the ridge,use 2x6 from this to the ridge. this adds strength and is a good base for your ply. then install 1x gutterboard on the face . put in another rafter for support in the center and use 3/4 sheathing . It will be plenty strong. Joe.
That will work, I was planning on using 2 more sets of rafters and use 1/2 ply. I've already got the 1/2" sheathing stock but I could always use it for headers.

If I use a 2x 'sub-fascia', will I need to block the gable end overhang? Does the fly rafter get attacted to the ridge board just like the common rafters or does it get nailed through the end grain of the ridge?
 

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With a short span like this (eave to ridge) I'd suggest using 3/4 Car siding run back to th 2cnd rafter than nail your Fly to this through the top. You will have to finish the rest of the roof with 3/4s but it will hold up very nicely and have a nice fished look from underneath.

Using this method you should need no blocking or lookouts of any sort.
 

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OK why in the heck would you want glass. I guess it may be done where you live but here in rural America it sounds silly. Do you have any pictures of this type of thing. Of course out lookers are the strongest. After that you can choose to do what you want (make it look pretty or make it the best you can structurally).
 
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