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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a house that was built in 2006 that has 2x8’s running through the brick out with a header shown. The floor joists are, most likely, attached to a Ledger on the wall that's hidden behind the brick veneer. Currently the deck is 24” on center and was contemplating adding another joist in between the joist currently. Deck size is 13' away from the house 30' long using 2x8's with a 24" on center.
My question is this; can I use double hangers to create a header in between the joist to then use a hanger to run an additional joist in the center of the two original joists? Or will this add too much weight to the deck currently (thinking 2x10's should have been used). I was thinking of doing this to remove any “bounce” in the deck as well as give a better environment for trex.
The other option is going with 2x decking and staining or 5/4. Thoughts, issues, comments? Anything is helpful.
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retired framer
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treated lumber from 2006 are close is end of life. You need a real close inspection before spending time and money.
 

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retired framer
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What would you recommend? Putting another post and beam close to the house? or just run the 2x wood?
They changed the treatment in 2003 and took out all the good or bad stuff from treated lumber.
So your deck built in 2006 is with the newer not better treatment.
With in a few years it was discovered on decks water and dirt sitting on the joists would cause rot.
And now we have a whole industry built around joist tape installed to protect the top of the joist.
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So before spending money you want to understand and look for rot in the joists.
A fair explanation here.
THE TRUTH ABOUT WOOD ROT (You need to watch this!!) - YouTube
The problem with your deck is you can't inspect the ledger and the hangers as the bricks are hiding where we expect the worst to be.
We would like to see the ledger and hangers
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No concern about a 17 year old deck with out joist tape and no info about ledger?
The deck joists seem to be in decent shape but would need to take off the decking to confirm. Would it be better to remove the joists and start over with a ledger? or would it be better to add additional support about 6" away from the house and add joists that way.
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Hammered Thumb
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Are you even sure the joists are treated? Can't tell from the photo, and they were probably installed prior to the brick veneer and wall sheathing. And there surely is no ledger behind the brick in a 1" air space between the back of the brick and the rim joist. So they were probably installed at the same time as the floor joists bearing on the top plate of the wall.

  • [email protected]"o.c. can span <10', [email protected]"o.c. is right at 13' span.
  • Just for reference [email protected]"o.c. can only span 11.5'
  • If you have Trex now with 24"o.c. supports, then that is overspanned too (max 16" support framing).
  • So bounce from the joists and from the Trex.

Eddie's support is the easiest, but anything you do will probably look bad with the brick columns, putting more posts in front of those windows at only 6' out, and tearing up your slab. You cannot do a ledger on brick veneer (rare exceptions of using Simpson BVLZ).
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
st, but anything you do will probably look bad with the brick columns, putting more posts in front of those windows at only 6' out, and tearing up your slab. You cannot do a ledger on brick veneer (rare exceptions of using Simpson BVLZ).
So of joists are in decent shape; put 5/4 or 2x and call it a day? If joists are not bad should I apply tape? etc?
 

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The deck joists seem to be in decent shape but would need to take off the decking to confirm. Would it be better to remove the joists and start over with a ledger? or would it be better to add additional support about 6" away from the house and add joists that way. View attachment 697599
Just to be clear I don't have an answer, I have fear for the safety for you and yours and that would include the deck.
Let me explain my fears with a few things I know.
Brick absorbs water and behind the brick there is house wrap or tar paper or something that is classed as a drain plane, The water run down behind the brick and drains out the bottom thru weep holes, (spaces between the lowest bricks)
Decks are built with a ledger against the house and joists are hung off that.
There is not enough room in the drain plane to hide a ledger, so you deck was hung from the un treated rim joist of the house. And around every joist the cut holes in the drain plane. So the question is, what is the condition of that un treated rim joist after 17 years of being exposed to water.
How do you inspect that behind brick? I have no idea.
Did you get up there on a ladder and inspect every joist with a sharp screw driver or awl? paying particular attention
closest to the house, over the beam and beam to hidden wood posts and the outside end and rim joist.
 

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@3onthetree
@Half-fast eddie

My fear is unseen rot, I suspect if that shows up one day the repairs would be made from the inside.
If I was adding a beam it would be close to the house with the extra joists the OP asked about as it build it so it could be a free standing deck that could cut away from the house at the time for repairs inside the house.
Thoughts?
 
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