[phogvision]

The title is just the beginning - ha!!!

Florida home on a slab. Not in a flood zone and generally dry save the FL humidity.

There's ugly tile through most of the house, the bedrooms have carpet. I plan on taking the carpet out and I'd like to install LVP in the whole house. But I don't want to tear out the existing tile because that sucks. Been there, done that, hated it. Here's the kicker. I want to avoid weird step-down transitions from the existing tile to the subfloor in the rooms with the carpet removed - about 1/2".

So how do I raise the subfloor magically 1/2" to match the existing tile flooring? Or am I going about this whole thing sideways? Looking for whatever you guys have, thanks!

EDIT: Changed LVT to LVP

 

[huesmann]

Add in 1/2" ply or OSB everywhere except the tiled area?

 

[phogvision]

Add in 1/2" ply or OSB everywhere except the tiled area?

This was my initial thought. What's the best way to adhere it to the floor? I'm assuming you need a vapor barrier of some kind.

They make urethane flooring glue that acts as a vapor barrier but the cost is about $3 per sq ft just for the glue.

 

[phogvision]

I've also considered using cement board to raise the level of the subfloor. Just not sure how cement board holds up to traffic.

6 mil plastic with plywood screwed to the concrete might be the best option. It would also be easy to remove if we decided we wanted to tile the whole house in the future.

Any additional thoughts are appreciated, thanks!

 

[HotRodx10]

If the new flooring is going to be over existing ceramic tile, you'd want the rigid core vinyl tiles/planks. The flexible LVP will show every little bump, groove, or ridge in what's below it.


IMO, sandwiching wood between a concrete slab and a vinyl floor is asking for trouble, regardless of what type of vapor barrier you attempt to use. My advice would be to go with ceramic, porcelain, slate, etc. Yeah, it's either more expense or more labor, but it will last pretty much forever if it's done right.

 

[phogvision]

If the new flooring is going to be over existing ceramic tile, you'd want the rigid core vinyl tiles/planks. The flexible LVP will show every little bump, groove, or ridge in what's below it.


IMO, sandwiching wood between a concrete slab and a vinyl floor is asking for trouble, regardless of what type of vapor barrier you attempt to use. My advice would be to go with ceramic, porcelain, slate, etc. Yeah, it's either more expense or more labor, but it will last pretty much forever if it's done right.

I agree regarding the plywood sandwich comment.

I've considered tiling the rest and then putting the LVP on top. Just seems like a lot of extra work.

The vinyl we chose is the rigid core plank type to avoid seeing anything underneath as you said.

 

[phogvision]

What about using cement board?

I realize the official way to use it is with thinset, screws, taped seams etc. But that's when it's used with tile. I'd simply be using the board to raise the floor level.

What time of adhesive would be appropriate to hold the cement board to the floor?

 

[HotRodx10]

I think cement board would work. I would recommend using thinset mortar for bedding and 'grouting' between panels (you'll have to consult someone with more experience on the procedure for that). If you fill in the joints between the panels well and smooth over any unevenness, you should have a good base for the vinyl. If you use a board to tamp along the transitions between panels when you lay them in the mortar, any unevenness should be minimal.

 

[huesmann]

I think you might need to do some kind of skim coat on the CBU—it's not that smooth, and you may be able to feel localized bumps through the LVP.

 

[HotRodx10]

I think you might need to do some kind of skim coat on the CBU

With the regular flexible vinyl planks, I'd agree, but with the rigid core type, I think smoothing out any variations in height between panels will be sufficient.

 

[phogvision]

I think cement board would work. I would recommend using thinset mortar for bedding and 'grouting' between panels (you'll have to consult someone with more experience on the procedure for that). If you fill in the joints between the panels well and smooth over any unevenness, you should have a good base for the vinyl. If you use a board to tamp along the transitions between panels when you lay them in the mortar, any unevenness should be minimal.

After some more research I think this is exactly the game plan. Any other adhesives don't make as much sense. I was trying to not deal with the mess of thinset. However it's what's designed to be used with cement board and it's by far the cheapest per square foot. It will also provide the best coverage and a good solid bed for the cement board.

When I get to this project I'll post an update in case anyone else runs into a similar situation.

 

[huesmann]

With the regular flexible vinyl planks, I'd agree, but with the rigid core type, I think smoothing out any variations in height between panels will be sufficient.

Missed the bit about OP selecting rigid core—my bad.

 

[dmstarr12]

After some more research I think this is exactly the game plan ...
When I get to this project I'll post an update in case anyone else runs into a similar situation.

I am facing the exact same issue - tile vs carpet and a 3/8" difference. How did it turn out?