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Discussion Starter #1
This rail is all the rage.. but its $220!!!







I gotta think that this can be easily built for way less than that..

Looking for some input and guidance on getting this done.

Heck If I can do it for less than $100 I might even build an extra one for the neighborhoood kids so they use this instead of "destroying" the PUBLIC rails in the city..

Let me know what you got..

Not a handyman per say but I'm thinking there should be a way to build this without having to weld..

aka an 8' or 10' pipe with a wood base, maybe somehow attach the pipe to the wood base with long strong screws?

let me know!

oNe
 

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grind box would be easier and safer if you dont want to weld. its also more versatile the kids will get more out of a box than a rail.

take extra care to grind down all edges of the metal so yo have at least a good 1/4" of bevel. Sharp edges suck :(



 

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Discussion Starter #4
Gentlemen..

I have a 10ft pipe, and then like a 6ft square ish pipe.. see pics.

Looking for input and suggestions on how best to put this together.

thinkin of cutting the 6ft square piece in half, to use as the posts.. but how to attach to the pipe?

For the base thinking of making wood based stands..but again not sure how to attach to the square pipe above..


open to any ideas and suggestions..


oNe
 

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Gentlemen..

I have a 10ft pipe, and then like a 6ft square ish pipe.. see pics.

Looking for input and suggestions on how best to put this together.

thinkin of cutting the 6ft square piece in half, to use as the posts.. but how to attach to the pipe?

For the base thinking of making wood based stands..but again not sure how to attach to the square pipe above..


open to any ideas and suggestions..


oNe
build it right or not at all,so noone gets hurt!! in order to secure the top pipe without anything that would catch a wheel , it needs to be welded from below, if you cant weld, bring it to a welder and see how much he wants to weld the 2 lower support pipes on, if you explain its for the neighborhood kids too, he may do it for a free...
 

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Ayuh,.... I'd say ya need access to a welder, 'n a grinder to put that stuff together,....

Grind the posts to match the pipe, 90° from in yer last picture, 'n weld 'em on,....

Weld a small flat plate to the bottom of the posts, so you can screw 'em down,....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
haha.. thanks fellas, appreciate the concern.

and yes Safety is key as it would not be beneficial to anyone for this to be dangerous in any way..


Honestly I was looking at the NO WELD approach... but you don't think any bolts would be worthwile(read: strong or safe) enough to hold this together?


What if I instead drilled holes into the pipe, ran the bolts from inside the pipe into wood posts.. then bolted those same bolts to the bottom of 1-2ft wood bases? However for this to be worthwhile I would need bolts that are at least 1-2 ft in length, not sure if that even exists..


Lastly..

any recommendations for how to find a local welder in my area? Whats the best way to approach them with this project?


thanks in advance!


oNe
 

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MEASURE ONCE, CUT TWICE
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haha.. thanks fellas, appreciate the concern.

and yes Safety is key as it would not be beneficial to anyone for this to be dangerous in any way..


Honestly I was looking at the NO WELD approach... but you don't think any bolts would be worthwile(read: strong or safe) enough to hold this together?


What if I instead drilled holes into the pipe, ran the bolts from inside the pipe into wood posts.. then bolted those same bolts to the bottom of 1-2ft wood bases? However for this to be worthwhile I would need bolts that are at least 1-2 ft in length, not sure if that even exists..


Lastly..

any recommendations for how to find a local welder in my area? Whats the best way to approach them with this project?


thanks in advance!


oNe
Threaded rod is long enough.
You would need at least 5/8" dia but 3/4 would be better. Drill holes in the bottom of the pipe close to the ends so you could grab the nut to tighten.

This way, no bolts/nuts sticking out the top.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you bolt it, the bolts will be in the way. I agree, weld & grind.

Do you have a local vocational technical school?
here is how I envision it.. bolts would run inside the pipe(like a T, x2) into the wood Post(drilled lengthwise for the bolts), down to the base where they would be attached to nuts and tightened..



kinda hard to explain.. but hope that makes sense.. my question is finding bolts that are 18-22 inches in length..

hard to explain but hope that makes sense...


oNe
 

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Gotcha. Like pugsy123 said - not bolts, but threaded rod & lock nuts. Beefy - 3/4" at least.

On the post side, threaded inserts like these:


I'd still recommend welding, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Did some soul searching and yall are correct, WELDING is the ONLY way to go..

need some help/input from you..

1. I want the height of this to be 20"s so when I cut the "legs" do I need to account for any extra length for the weld? i.e. make it 21"'s so that when welded its actually 20"s?

2. Needs your input on the feet, dimensions? i.e. they will be square I imagine..
a. what size length, width, and or thickness?
b. where should I get them from and what do I tell them?

3. Tips or insight on How Do I contact or look for a welder? The school thing didn't pan out and the 2 guys on Craigslist want $500 for this dealio...

I already have the "rail" and the "legs" so just need a welder and the feet for this..

SO CLOSE!!

let me know

oNe
 

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Did some soul searching and yall are correct, WELDING is the ONLY way to go..

need some help/input from you..

1. I want the height of this to be 20"s so when I cut the "legs" do I need to account for any extra length for the weld? i.e. make it 21"'s so that when welded its actually 20"s?

2. Needs your input on the feet, dimensions? i.e. they will be square I imagine..
a. what size length, width, and or thickness?
b. where should I get them from and what do I tell them?

3. Tips or insight on How Do I contact or look for a welder? The school thing didn't pan out and the 2 guys on Craigslist want $500 for this dealio...

I already have the "rail" and the "legs" so just need a welder and the feet for this..

SO CLOSE!!

let me know

oNe
the problem with someone else welding it..is LIABILITY...when its misused and a weld breaks or something bends and a child gets hurt, whose gona get sued?? forget craigslist and look for a professional welder in business, or a place that builds metal fences...
 

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MEASURE ONCE, CUT TWICE
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Did some soul searching and yall are correct, WELDING is the ONLY way to go..

need some help/input from you..

1. I want the height of this to be 20"s so when I cut the "legs" do I need to account for any extra length for the weld? i.e. make it 21"'s so that when welded its actually 20"s? ...cut hgt req'd. No shrinkage will occur

2. Needs your input on the feet, dimensions? i.e. they will be square I imagine..
a. what size length, width, and or thickness?
b. where should I get them from and what do I tell them?
3/4" x 4" hot rolled steel flat bar would be my choice, 30" long minimum.

3. Tips or insight on How Do I contact or look for a welder? The school thing didn't pan out and the 2 guys on Craigslist want $500 for this dealio...

I already have the "rail" and the "legs" so just need a welder and the feet for this..

SO CLOSE!!

let me know

oNe
See above.
 

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. Needs your input on the feet, dimensions? i.e. they will be square I imagine..
a. what size length, width, and or thickness?
b. where should I get them from and what do I tell them?
3/4" x 4" hot rolled steel flat bar would be my choice, 30" long minimum.
He would be better off Like he using something like 4"x1/2" angle iron instead of flat bar. The bar is likely to flex with sideloading while the angle iron has much more resistance to flexure..
 

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MEASURE ONCE, CUT TWICE
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He would be better off Like he using something like 4"x1/2" angle iron instead of flat bar. The bar is likely to flex with sideloading while the angle iron has much more resistance to flexure..
I agree but, the angle iron will always have that one leg sticking up.
I'd hate to fall on it.
That's why I said 3/4" thick. That won't go anywhere.
 

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Then how about using a piece of Channel Iron with the flat surface up? That certainly would have a lot more resistance to flexure and weigh less than the plate.
 
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