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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I live in the Chicagoland area. Code requires conduit -- no problem. I just finished framing. In the past, I framed using metal studs that already had the space for the conduit cut out. Today, I am using good old wood 2x4.

What is the trick for drilling out the conduit location in the 2x4? How do you make sure the holes are perfect -- all aligned up? What type of bit do you use? If the conduit is 1/2", what size bit do you use? Please tell me the exact type of bit -- not a "standard drill bit" There are many kinds and types of bits used for many applications.

Thank you for your expertise.
 

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Most resi new construction guys here use a 1 1/8" auger bit on a corded angle drill or hole hog. It turns slowly with a lot of torque and the bit has a screwlike tip that pulls it thru.

Even though you may only be running 1/2" EMT, a little play is desireable.

Measure those holes carefully if you are running pipe. Measure up from the floor on each stud face and transfer the marks with a speed square, using it to mak center.

If you aren't doing a whole house, a simple paddle bit on high speed works well.

The biggest hole you can use without using sleel protector plates is technically 1" as the conduit/cable must be in 1 1/4" from the stud face so dwall nails/screws wont hit it.
 

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The biggest hole you can use without using sleel protector plates is technically 1" as the conduit/cable must be in 1 1/4" from the stud face so dwall nails/screws wont hit it.
Might as well use Romex if you still have to use steel plates even for EMT. I can understand steel plates for Romex or even ENT, but EMT is pretty sturdy material. Of course romex and ENT aren't code permitted in Chicago and much of northern Illinois (for reasons I've never understood), so EMT it is!
 

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I was troubleshooting a few years back and found a drywall screw screwed right thru a piece of 1/2" EMT.

I am not sure if EMT has the 1 1/4" requirement. I just assumed that it did. :jester:
 

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I was troubleshooting a few years back and found a drywall screw screwed right thru a piece of 1/2" EMT.

I am not sure if EMT has the 1 1/4" requirement. I just assumed that it did. :jester:
300.4 A. (1)(1) Bored Holes. In both exposed and concealed locations, where a cable- or raceway-type wiring method is installed through bored holes in joists, rafters, or wood members, holes shall be bored so that the edge of the hole is not less than 32 mm (11⁄4 in.) from the nearest edge of the wood member. Where this distance cannot be maintained, the cable or raceway shall be protected from penetration by screws or nails by a steel plate(s) or bushing(s), at least 1.6 mm (1⁄16 in.) thick, and of appropriate length and width installed to cover the area of the wiring. Exception No. 1: Steel plates shall not be required to protect rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, rigid nonmetallic conduit, or electrical metallic tubing.

I guess it's not. :)
 

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This guy (or gal) is in Chicago, so no romex. If it were me, I'd pop a chalk line, then use a speed square to mark the sides of the studs. Use a 1" or 1-1/8" spade bit or auger bit.
 

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The other thing with conduits please do pay attetion to the numbers of bends espcally if it is on the corner that can really play ugly rear end and try to keep the conduit straght as possiable.

Merci,Marc
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the info. I have one more question: How do you install the conduit after the holes have been drilled out? Each conduit pole is 10 feet in length. Each 2x4 is 14 1/2" space between the next one. What are the options?

Thank you,
--jeff
 

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Yeah.....couplings are your friends.

To go horizontal thru a wall, keep drilling and insert the pipe thru the end if you can.

If you are pinched in on both sides.....use short pieces and tweak them in?...cut a stud loose and toenail it back in? Go up and over? Notch and nail plate?

If the allow the notch and plate, that would be the easiest. Bend the pipe and notch/plate accordingly. It doesn't take much longer to notch than to cut.
 

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Oversize your holes. You can generally get away with a 1 1/4" bit. Cut your lengths of conduit to fit across 2 1/2 stud bays. You should be able to cram them in fairly easily. Couple them up and repeat. Also, in order to fasten the pipe, J hooks are a great tool. Just bang them in to the meat of the stud from above the conduit (pound them down) and they hold like crazy.
 

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I will help throughout the whole process
That will generally cost you more :jester:

The best thing a homeowner can do is go away and clean up when they come back.

Beer and food are always a nice touch too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sure dude! Thanks for the advice. I sure hope you never ask for advice on something you do not know how to do. And if you do, I hope you get the same advice as you provided. Why answer with a sarcastic comment? If you can add value or expertise, then you should chime in. Otherwise, don't.
 

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I offered great advice in two different posts, douchebag.

I wasn't being sarcastic, I was being honest. In the contractor forums, one of the biggest red flags is homeowners wanting to "help".

The only help you can offer is to stay out of the way and clean up the mess. Why is that so offensive to you?
 

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Jeff,

The idea that 220 was trying to express was that since some people do this as a living that untrained help, even tho well intentioned, will slow them down. Also if they do something that needs to be redone it will cost additional time.
 

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Bending conduit

I am a carpentry/construction teacher, and we are building a model stud wall home in the classroom. I would like to teach my students to bend conduit and install it to wire up an outlet. Can anyone provide some tips for doing this? Thank you:)
 
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