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Look at this pic, and tell if you would do this or not - bathroom wall.

4185 Views 19 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  jds1900
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I am tiling a shower above my bathtub. The problem is, on the wet side, the wall extends only about 3/4" further than the tub. Making it impossible to get a tile to run down the side of the tub. On the other side, one full 3" surface bullnose will extend down the side of the tub. Originally, I had resigned myself to stopping the wetside tile right at the tub's edge and taping and mudding and painting underneath. What I can't do, is build that wall out anymore because at the other side of that wall is the door, extending the wall by a couple inches would encroach into the doors rough opening space. My new idea, was too frame out just one 2x4 at the very corner of the wall where it meets the wet side and creat a little, soffit-looking extension in the wall. This would allow my to keep the door openeing the same and match identically the full bullnose on each side of the tub. What do you guys think?




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So I take it you don't think it will look odd
I see no reason not to do that, other than the extra work. I always look at that kind of stuff and say, if I hate it in 5 to 10 years (or sooner), how hard is it to undoo at the next remodel?
So I take it you don't think it will look odd
I think it could look nice. You going to use a curtain or a glass door? Either way, your mini wall will set off the opening a bit.
Very unprofessional. If a sliding shower door, put it in first, tile to it. I liked your other idea better. Or, if the door is bigger than a 2'4", replace it with a 2'4" and hold it away from tub - 2". Be safe, GBAR
Your idea will work fine. GBAR, he's talking about the entrance door to the bathroom itself. He can't furr the whole wall out to get the right return on that side of the tub, due to the entry door's location....
Your idea will work fine. GBAR, he's talking about the entrance door to the bathroom itself. He can't furr the whole wall out to get the right return on that side of the tub, due to the entry door's location....
yes exactly. Right that abutting wall that makes the corner with the wet wall had the door entrance at the other end. Its already a tight squeeze and the door is backed up on the other side to a closet so not only can I not lessen the door opening, theres not even any room to move the door over.
I think I'll do it in drywall, take a real pic and post again. That will give us a better idea...
I think I'll do it in drywall, take a real pic and post again. That will give us a better idea...
The only correct answer to this is.. do YOU like it?
I'm liking it. I believe you will be much happier with the look of the tile. Uneven bullnose is not a pretty picture, but it's not the end of the world either.
Why not just buy/find a wider tube and that would take it all the way to the edge.
I'm liking it. I believe you will be much happier with the look of the tile. Uneven bullnose is not a pretty picture, but it's not the end of the world either.
Thanks. I think so too and I've gone ahead with it. I figure, drywall it and mud it. I should know then if I like it and it won't be too late to take it out if not.

Why not just buy/find a wider tube and that would take it all the way to the edge.
I'm not sure I follow.
J187, I'd do it. If you do a good job at the drywall, paint, and the tile... it will look like it was always there. Granted, it's a LOT of work for a small nuance, but I feel your pain, that small area that won't accomodate the tiles would bug me too.
You could shim out each stud on the wall extending from the door to where it terminates near the tub. 0 nearest the door growing to 1.5 at the corner nearest the tub.
Thanks guys. I've drywalled it and it looks perfectly fine to me. Actually I would even dare to say it adds a bit of charactor...I'm not even sure it will ever be seen anyway now that I realize the door opens into it and will likely block view of it as you enter the bathroom and once the door is closed you are passed it and into the bathroom.
If you extend the wall and start with a full tile at the back edge of the wall, you still have the problem that the spacing of the tiles will leave a 3/4" gap between the front edge of the tub and the vertical edge of the next tile. Since the outer edge of the tub will likely slope inward, it will be wider at the top and narrower at the bottom.

If you extend the wall and then start tiling from the outside toward the back of the tub, you will end up with a narrow tile at the back edge. You will also need to cut the lower tiles on the front edge of the tub due to the slope of the tub.

I just faced this with my bath remodel project. I started tiling from the back wall and cut tiles of the required width (about 3/4" at bottom and 1"+ at top) to fit along the front edge of the tub. In my case the wall extended further out and I did add another column of tiles but it would not have been necessary. Your cut tiles are not going to be completely flush with the tub since you can cut them that accurately and smoothly. This will not show once you caulk around the edge of the tub.
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