If a guy wanted to add some cove lighting to a room, with crown molding just offset below the ceiling, is there a good (i.e. meets code) way to hide the needed AC/DC adapter inside the wall? Ideally, power would be tapped off an existing wall outlet and the 12V wires run up inside the wall.
Locating LED Lighting Power Converter/Transformer
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You need to put the power supply in a place where it is accessible. Some have screw terminals for connection to the AC line, and that is a junction that needs to be accessible. Others have a flexible AC cord, and you aren't permitted to run that through a wall. So in either case, that means you need to make it accessible.
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I’m guessing that you have a switch controlled receptacle that can be used for a plug in lamp. You could extent the AC wiring from that receptacle up inside the wall to the attic (if it exists there), where a hardwired transformer would be located. Then a small hole for the low voltage wiring through the ceiling drywall inside the cove. In this case it would be nice if the switch controlled receptacle isn’t on an external wall where attic access might be a pain, depending which way the rafters/trusses run.
Alternatively, if you’ve got a basement underneath the room you could run the switched AC wiring downwards and located the hardwired transformer there, then run low voltage wiring up the wall to the molding.
We’ve recently installed six Armacost AC dimmable power supplies for LED strip lighting. They are all in accessible but not visible locations.
Chris
Alternatively, if you’ve got a basement underneath the room you could run the switched AC wiring downwards and located the hardwired transformer there, then run low voltage wiring up the wall to the molding.
We’ve recently installed six Armacost AC dimmable power supplies for LED strip lighting. They are all in accessible but not visible locations.
Chris
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You will be faced with fishing class 2 wire up inside the wall. That's known also as thermostat wire. The 18/2 stat wire will do. You must keep the power required below 100 VA to comply with code. That means about 8 amps maximum load @ 12 volts. Around 6 amps would be a nice conservative maximum for a 12 volt system.
There are any number of remote controlled outlet plug-ins that would allow you to use any wall receptacle for plugging the transformer in for power. This would seem like a good application for one unless you already have a switched receptacle handy and near where you can fish the wall.
Good luck fishing the wall, that what it normally takes.
SD2
There are any number of remote controlled outlet plug-ins that would allow you to use any wall receptacle for plugging the transformer in for power. This would seem like a good application for one unless you already have a switched receptacle handy and near where you can fish the wall.
Good luck fishing the wall, that what it normally takes.
SD2
Forgot to mention there's a second floor above this room, so no access from attic.
Surfer, I assume that's 100W per LV line? So if I tapped off two outlets I could do 200? Or is it 100 per circuit (all the outlets appear to be on same circuit)?
I realize I'm gonna be fishing wires. I'd just prefer to be able to have the LED driver/PS out of the way—whether hidden behind an access panel or a wall plate, either of which could be painted to match the wall—rather than a box sitting outside the wall.
Surfer, I assume that's 100W per LV line? So if I tapped off two outlets I could do 200? Or is it 100 per circuit (all the outlets appear to be on same circuit)?
I realize I'm gonna be fishing wires. I'd just prefer to be able to have the LED driver/PS out of the way—whether hidden behind an access panel or a wall plate, either of which could be painted to match the wall—rather than a box sitting outside the wall.
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OK, when you get too much load for a single circuit, then you need to get a special driver that can handle multiple circuits and then split the loads in equal branches that are served by their own conductors. That's a little bigger challenge fishing the wires but probably still just a mater of technique and past experience and a good helping of luck.
Here's a representative power driver that you may consider or at least something to give you a starting spec. In their hype there, they suggest you can parallel separate feed conductors to get all strings on one circuit. I'm not so sure that is code legal nor am I sure their product has sufficient approvals. Do your own due diligence since I'm plowing new ground at this level of class 2 circuitry.
2-circuit LED Light Driver
3-circuit LED Light Driver
Here's a representative power driver that you may consider or at least something to give you a starting spec. In their hype there, they suggest you can parallel separate feed conductors to get all strings on one circuit. I'm not so sure that is code legal nor am I sure their product has sufficient approvals. Do your own due diligence since I'm plowing new ground at this level of class 2 circuitry.
2-circuit LED Light Driver
3-circuit LED Light Driver
My understanding of the code is that in order to meet Class 2 requirements, the power supply itself must be labeled as Class 2, meaning that the power output on each tap is limited to 100W.
The two examples you gave are not labeled as Class 2, and that makes me suspicious that they are not properly power limited.
So you're absolutely correct... the OP needs to do due diligence on whatever he chooses to go with.
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You could put a small compact style LED driver into a larger sze J box,
Then put a blank plate on it.
That way it's still accessable
But out of sight.
Then put a blank plate on it.
That way it's still accessable
But out of sight.
That's effectively what I want to do, but I want to confirm that it will meet code. The driver would need to be the type you wire up to romex, though. Right? I don't believe you're allowed to run appliance cable in walls. Which is why the drivers linked above by SD2 won't work in a "hidden" configuration.
Had another "will this work" idea.
What if I just use 120V LED light strips like these?
These require no AC/DC adapter.
What if I fish a piece of NM from a hole in the wall above the cove, to the outlet at the bottom of the wall, then wire nut the LED strip to the NM cable? I could tuck the wire nuts into the hole and cover the hole with a removable plug, or possible a small cover plate. Would that be code-compliant?
What if I just use 120V LED light strips like these?
These require no AC/DC adapter.
What if I fish a piece of NM from a hole in the wall above the cove, to the outlet at the bottom of the wall, then wire nut the LED strip to the NM cable? I could tuck the wire nuts into the hole and cover the hole with a removable plug, or possible a small cover plate. Would that be code-compliant?
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No, the connection to the NM must be in a junction box.
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Looking at the directions for those LED strips, it appears to me that you need to connect them via a plug. You can't cut the plug off and wire nut the line together.
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The point is, you're using an approved cord connected LED strip... install a receptacle for it.
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Sometime we make things harder than they need to be. That light string doesn't require any driver power adapter since it has that function built in via other means. Miscommunication up front made thing go the wrong direction. Don't feel like the Lone Ranger, these things happen to all of us. It's called learning by hard knocks. These kind of lessons are least likely to be forgotten, if that's any consolation.
Since you're now pulling line voltage cable in the wall, you can provide a switch box and not need to use the remote device suggested earlier. Another possibility is to just get power to feed the receptacle from some other ceiling light that may be in reach and not have to fish the wall at all.
Since you're now pulling line voltage cable in the wall, you can provide a switch box and not need to use the remote device suggested earlier. Another possibility is to just get power to feed the receptacle from some other ceiling light that may be in reach and not have to fish the wall at all.
Alas, that's part of the problem—wife wants cove lighting because there's no ceiling light! :vs_cry:
I have a feeling I'm gonna end up having to run a low-V line up from an adapter at an outlet, and hiding it in a corner of the room with some Cordmate.
I have a feeling I'm gonna end up having to run a low-V line up from an adapter at an outlet, and hiding it in a corner of the room with some Cordmate.
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Oh the pain of it all. Does that woman realize what she's asking? :vs_OMG:
There's always a way... you'll figure it out and all will go well. Take your time, she may come up with something worse when you finish this challenge. :biggrin2:
There's always a way... you'll figure it out and all will go well. Take your time, she may come up with something worse when you finish this challenge. :biggrin2:
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