[Anvilsbeme]

Thank you for letting me join this forum. The load center pictured is an HOM612L100RB in which I installed the recommended ground bar (PK7GTA). The issue I'm having is I need to place a 3/4" terminal adapter on the lower left side but the ground bar is too close to allow the adapter to be mounted there. If I move the ground bar to the right side, then I'm facing the same issue on that side. Question: does anyone have an idea if I can relocate the ground bar to a different location (other than the two locations recommended by the manufacturer) and still be within code?

 

[surferdude2]

I wouldn't hesitate to move it 1" to the right to clear the PVC male adapter. The manufacturer provides raised mounts so the terminal bar mounting screws won't extend through and into the wall behind. Unless you have a concrete or masonry wall, you should be OK there.

Scrape the paint off before mounting just to make it look like you went the extra mile. That's more than the manufacturer does.

 

[surferdude2]

As an alternate method, you could run a chase nipple out and screw a female adapter on it and not have to move the strip.
;
;
Chase Nipples

 

[brric]

PVC box connector on the inside cemented to a coupling on the outside.

 

[brric]

 

[seharper]

Use both. Get another ground bar and mount it on the right side. They're like $5.

And just for "belt and suspenders" I would use one of the soon-to-be-eclipsed ground screw holes to run a ground strap between the two ground bars. I do not trust screw threads for that; I've seen them vaporize.

Also, before you move any further along, I would revisit your size decision on that panel. The #1 mistake we see is people getting a "just big enough for their immediate needs" panel and declaring victory. And then later they need more spaces, and they have shortchanged themselves. The incremental cost of more spaces is very low, but the cost of tearing a fully-wired panel off the wall to replace it entirely is a fair bit more. You can't count on using twin/quad "double-stuff" breakers, because of AFCI/GFCI requirements, needed almost every circuit these days.

 

[rjniles]

Side note. The bare wire coming thru a hole in the bottom of the box is not compliant. It requires a clamping device. The best one to use is a Kenny clamp (Google it) but most people just use a NM cable clamp.

Sent from my RCT6A03W13E using Tapatalk

 

[J. V.]

I wouldn't hesitate to move it 1" to the right to clear the PVC male adapter. The manufacturer provides raised mounts so the terminal bar mounting screws won't extend through and into the wall behind. Unless you have a concrete or masonry wall, you should be OK there.

Scrape the paint off before mounting just to make it look like you went the extra mile. That's more than the manufacturer does.

Just make sure he uses two 8-32 machine screws and is able to get at minimum 2 threads engaged.
Sheet metal or self tapping screws are not compliant.

Side note. The bare wire coming thru a hole in the bottom of the box is not compliant. It requires a clamping device. The best one to use is a Kenny clamp (Google it) but most people just use a NM cable clamp.

This was debated for days on the professional forum awhile back.
Turns out Square D verified no clamp required.
Even that the clamp might be a violation. The "choke" theory was used.

But we did get verification that hole is indeed there for this very reason/use.