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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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I leave in Northern NJ(Zone 4/5). I have a 24 x 23 Living Room. It is the left Wing on my house. There is no second floor. I have real 2 x 8 rafters old growth old wood. The roof pitch is 12/12 or damn close to it. Half the roof is decked in CDX and the other half is 3/4 tongue and groove pine. Roofing material is Asphalt shingles. This roof used to be thousands of pounds heavier(Slate), but the decay was too severe.

In the pics you see three 3 x 12 beams(3 x 11.5) /rafter ties. The rafters are old thick 2 x 8s and there is no ridge beam carrying the load, nor is it an option. I want to remove my rafters for design reasons. And I have my doubts. I had an engineer come in and take measurements. The engineer said they could remove all three beams. They will resecure the full 2 x 6 collar ties and install 18 guage hurricane/rafter clips on each rafter to the top plate.

I was thrilled to here this of course. But I have done a lot of reading, and I have seen nothing to suggest that I could do this without rafter thrust issues. At minimum, I would like the beams 1 -2 feet higher or maybe use steel rod or cord instead of wood. I don´t think I trust this engineers plan.

Any thoughts and/or advice are welcome.

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retired framer
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See pics below:

I leave in Northern NJ(Zone 4/5). I have a 24 x 23 Living Room. It is the left Wing on my house. There is no second floor. I have real 2 x 8 rafters old growth old wood. The roof pitch is 12/12 or damn close to it. Half the roof is decked in CDX and the other half is 3/4 tongue and groove pine. Roofing material is Asphalt shingles. This roof used to be thousands of pounds heavier(Slate), but the decay was too severe.

In the pics you see three 3 x 12 beams(3 x 11.5) /rafter ties. The rafters are old thick 2 x 8s and there is no ridge beam carrying the load, nor is it an option. I want to remove my rafters for design reasons. And I have my doubts. I had an engineer come in and take measurements. The engineer said they could remove all three beams. They will resecure the full 2 x 6 collar ties and install 18 guage hurricane/rafter clips on each rafter to the top plate.

I was thrilled to here this of course. But I have done a lot of reading, and I have seen nothing to suggest that I could do this without rafter thrust issues. At minimum, I would like the beams 1 -2 feet higher or maybe use steel rod or cord instead of wood. I don´t think I trust this engineers plan.

Any thoughts and/or advice are welcome.

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I would question the qualifications of that engineer, rafter ties can be anywhere in the bottom 1/3 of the rafter.
I would selvage those pieces just cut them off flush, cut them to length and move the up.
 

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Do you have a sag in the roof? Houses have been built for thousands of years without a ridge. Trusses do not use a ridge. It held up the weight of a slate roof for how many years? It must be pre 1940's. The 12 12 pitch helped. when a roof shows evidence of thrust, you usually will see the walls bowed out too. You could add the ties up higher if you feel it needs them, it isn't going to hurt anything. If the town wants an engineer to stamp whatever you are doing you will probably have to play their game. If 3 engineers all gave you a different plan, how can you believe any of them? get an engineer to stamp their stamp?? Hope everyone else has better information to give you than I have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Do you have a sag in the roof? Houses have been built for thousands of years without a ridge. Trusses do not use a ridge. It held up the weight of a slate roof for how many years? It must be pre 1940's. The 12 12 pitch helped. when a roof shows evidence of thrust, you usually will see the walls bowed out too. You could add the ties up higher if you feel it needs them, it isn't going to hurt anything. If the town wants an engineer to stamp whatever you are doing you will probably have to play their game. If 3 engineers all gave you a different plan, how can you believe any of them? get an engineer to stamp their stamp?? Hope everyone else has better information to give you than I have.
The house was built in 1938. No sag in the roof. Slate was up for 77 years. Walls may have a mild bow, so so do all the other walls in my house, except the new ones. I don´t want to add ties without removing the 3 large ties. If an engineer gave me a plan that said ridge beam and posts, I would believe it. Iḿ not looking to remove the tray ceiling.
 

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retired framer
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Do you have a sag in the roof? Houses have been built for thousands of years without a ridge. Trusses do not use a ridge. It held up the weight of a slate roof for how many years? It must be pre 1940's. The 12 12 pitch helped. when a roof shows evidence of thrust, you usually will see the walls bowed out too. You could add the ties up higher if you feel it needs them, it isn't going to hurt anything. If the town wants an engineer to stamp whatever you are doing you will probably have to play their game. If 3 engineers all gave you a different plan, how can you believe any of them? get an engineer to stamp their stamp?? Hope everyone else has better information to give you than I have.
They either have rafter tie or a ridge beam, no short cut will will not work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the reply. Hence why I didn´t trust the engineers plan and posting here. I guess I can only go up a little with stronger ties, or steel cord or rod.
 

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retired framer
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Thanks for the reply. Hence why I didn´t trust the engineers plan and posting here. I guess I can only go up a little with stronger ties, or steel cord or rod.
Yeah get a real engineer and not a salesman.
 
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