[viper]

Realizing that my generator is just not quite up to the task of starting this unit. No issues with AC. AC will start on the generator when a bit cooler out but warmer weather is an issue. I realized the compressor does not come factory with a start cap. I am having issues posting pics in my remote location but do have the schematic inside the unit and specs on the compressor.

The AC is a 12-13k btu unit. I am not sure if I would prefer a PTC or potential relay for this? Also sizing of the start cap is of question. I realize many kits are almost a "one size fits all" and that concerns be a bit. I think with a little bump, the AC will get up and running on my genny.

A little schematic would sure help me. I have 3 basic terminals, an R, S, C which appear to be start, run, common. the common goes through a compressor overload.

 

[surferdude2]

You'll get a diagram with the kit so not to worry. Either type will have the same effect so it's your choice... the relay type is favored by some of the old timers and picky newbies but I always used the cheapest one since it was normally going on a compressor that was on life support already.

Don't be surprised if it doesn't cure your issue, the start current will still be quite high and the generator may still balk on you. Worth a cheap shot though.

 

[roughneck]

Just out of curiosity, what generator are you trying to use?

 

[viper]

EU3000. Have others but want this one to handle it with a little help. She is trying but voltage just gets too low with the big inrush.

I realize start caps are typically used to mask problems and I don't have a ton of faith but I know I am very close to getting a clean start. Honda works hard for 1-2sec before tripping.

 

[user_12345a]

It's worth a shot. The start cap will never be perfectly sized.

Is your unit 120 or 240v?

I would not get a ptc type because it may not cool off and reset before the next cycle.

Also, the potential relay type cuts out once the compressor is up to speed - easier on the compressor. The ptc has no way to know if the compressor has actually started and can stay in the circuit for too long or not long enough.

Assume 1 HP per ton...

If it's a lower voltage unit the supco SPP4E would work and be a nice match - built in potential relay for 1/8 to 1hp.

If it's 240v +/-, SPP5E, 1/3 to 2hp.

You can look at 3 wire kits with a separate potential relay but options may be very limited for a 13 k btu unit especially if 120v.

 

[viper]

Yes, it's 120V. Finding that most 5th wheel/RV stuff is. Yes, I agree, likely 1HP here. What sucks is I probably have the components in my stash but have that stuff in storage right now as I am moving. Potential relays are not real easy to find ta hardware stores in a pinch.

 

[user_12345a]

for ease of install, just get a 2-wire kit with the potential relay built in - not terribly expensive and takes less space than a 3 wire kit with separate relay.

spp5e would be perfect.

 

[jjrbus]

You came to the right place for info, there is so much running AC misinformation on the RV forums.



I dislike RV AC's and use a 8000 btu window AC on my RV and often run it with a Honda 2000. With help from here I installed a hard start cap on the window AC. Even though the Honda 2000 is more than capable of running the 8000 it wants to bog down in ECO mode when the AC starts. In my case the hard start did its magic and now the start up is barely noticeable.


There is another option, but no way should it be needed with a Honda 3000. I have not used one of these, given what I have read about them over the last couple of years would spend my money on one.




https://www.microair.net/products/e...rter-for-air-conditioners?variant=30176048267