[tstex]

Hello to all,

My wellhouse needed a major exterior work over due to rotting wood. A Lg tree has also raised the S side of the foundation and it leans very much to the N.

I've included a few pics of a b4 & after, but the last 2 pics (of the back west side) at the bottom left somewhat shows the delta of the lean. You can see a 2x4 on its 1.5" side and the gap it creates. It still needs another 1/2-3/4" raise by the time it comes around to the front left (NE side)

In my first hand drawn pic, the bottom perimeter has treated 2x4 plate boards on the S W & N sides...the door or east side detaches and is removable so I can simply pull back from the west side and lower to ground to access well.

I'm looking for solutions to level out the foundation so when I put the well house back on, it's level. I cannot jack up the lower side or pour concrete to evenly level out the whole foundation. My thought was to measure highest point on the SE side, then run a 4ft level to the SW side and mark that height/point, then repeat from SW side to NW side to NE side and from NE side back to SE side; this completes the perimeter outside.

I was then going to frame up the outside w plywood even w outside existing foundation to the point heights measured w level. I'd then frame up the inside to match outside height and the width of 3.5" to match the treated 2x4 plate boards

Questions:

What is the best material to use to create this perimeter beam? The thickness would vary from paper thin starting out to prob 2".

Final question are suggestions on how to frame out the inside w existing tank, pipes, casing and other items close to the ground.

Thank you very much,
tstex

View attachment 591411 View attachment 591411 View attachment 591411

 

[tstex]

Note: The newer 2x4 you see in the last pic at the bottom left, that is not part of the current structure. The existing 2x4 plates that are part of the structure are resting on the newer piece...this kind of shows the delta of the lower side - thanks

 

[Nealtw]

Set a 2x4 on the slope wedge it up until it is level, scribe a line using a compos.
Cut 2 and nail them together.

 

[tstex]

Thank you Neal...I like the sloped 2x4 method as a wedge for leveling and supporting while using the level on top. This is the solution for the outside as well as the measurements for the inside framing. what's the best way for securing the inside framing?

Do you have any suggestions on the product to make the perimeter beam? Would mixing a 90lb bag of ready-mix concrete work or something else? Not sure how that would work w the thinnest side of the pour...thanks again

 

[Nealtw]

Thank you Neal...I like the sloped 2x4 method as a wedge for leveling and supporting while using the level on top. This is the solution for the outside as well as the measurements for the inside framing. what's the best way for securing the inside framing?

Do you have any suggestions on the product to make the perimeter beam? Would mixing a 90lb bag of ready-mix concrete work or something else? Not sure how that would work w the thinnest side of the pour...thanks again

Instead of 2 2x4s, you could just scribe and cut both sides of a 4x4 too.


Not sure i understand what you are framing inside. Is that like for insulation against the concrete, do you have a concrete floor?

 

[tstex]

Sorry Neal for not elaborating on foundation structure

The pic below has 2 figures

In Fig-1, this is a top view of foundation where dotted lines represent the inside framing . In both figures, I've left out all well structures except foundation. The thinnest pour would be at the bottom left or SE side. The thickest would be the N side.

In Fig-2, the 2x4 you see is what you see in the back pick of the original post. I essentially want to pour something to replace that 2x4 that evens out all sides so that the existing 2x4 bottom plate boards can rest evenly on the newly poured material. The width of the pour would be 3.5" and height as needed for an even pour around the entire perimeter. Hope this makes sense.

So, looking how to best frame up inside to outside b4 I pour materiel to make perimeter beam. Also, the best material to use for this application.

Thanks again, tstex

 

[SeniorSitizen]

Nealtw has your question under control, but have you considered modifying your well system to a pit-less adapter to eliminate the well house? I know if mine ever needs replaced i will and i wish my driller would have known and offered that years ago.

 

[tstex]

Nealtw has your question under control, but have you considered modifying your well system to a pit-less adapter to eliminate the well house? I know if mine ever needs replaced i will and i wish my driller would have known and offered that years ago.

Thanks Sr. Where would my well tank go, pressure switch, pressure gauge, etc etc w a pitless adapter?

 

[Nealtw]

Sorry Neal for not elaborating on foundation structure

The pic below has 2 figures

In Fig-1, this is a top view of foundation where dotted lines represent the inside framing . In both figures, I've left out all well structures except foundation. The thinnest pour would be at the bottom left or SE side. The thickest would be the N side.

In Fig-2, the 2x4 you see is what you see in the back pick of the original post. I essentially want to pour something to replace that 2x4 that evens out all sides so that the existing 2x4 bottom plate boards can rest evenly on the newly poured material. The width of the pour would be 3.5" and height as needed for an even pour around the entire perimeter. Hope this makes sense.

So, looking how to best frame up inside to outside b4 I pour materiel to make perimeter beam. Also, the best material to use for this application.

Thanks again, tstex

Do you happen to have a rotary hammer drill. Then you could just pin plywood to the the old concrete to make a form.

Pinning is 3/16" hole with a piece of trimmer string or tie wire and a 3 inch nail.

 

[SeniorSitizen]

Thanks Sr. Where would my well tank go, pressure switch, pressure gauge, etc etc w a pitless adapter?

Often those are in a garage but can be in any permanent structure ( with heat in certain climates ).

 

[tstex]

Thanks Neal. I do not have a rotary hammer, but you've given me an idea to secure the inner frame. I believe I could shoot a nail thru the interior part of the inside frame that would also go into a small 2x4 on the outside of inner frame, then place a brick or 2 on the 2x4...with the amt of material I am going to have to pour, it should not apply to much pressure to the sides, correct?

FInally, did you have a suggestion for what I need to use as the perimeter material? I was thinking of something like ready-mix concrete for 1" or thicker and something w no stones and easier to smooth out on the thinnest side. This will not have high load-bearing requirements and the pour doesn't need to be super pretty [esp the inside], but I do want to make sure it's done correctly and retrofitting in X yrs is not needed. Concrete material is not my forte, and neither is making forms/framing.

Thanks again,
tstex

 

[Nealtw]

I would chip away the top so you have a rough clean surface use a cheater form made out of 3/4 plywood and plywood horse shoes a bead of caulk on the edges.

For a bonding agent just mix carpenters glue with water and paint it on and pour concrete before the glue drys.

Sift the rocks out a small amount of the concrete so you can mix a small batch for the tapered end

 

[tstex]

I'll take some before and after pics of the work....I am going to smoke a 10lb brisket and 14lb turkey that I split in halves and finish off w sausage links on the top to let it cook into the meat..wish there was a way I could send some to you guys

Thanks for all, tstex

 

[Nealtw]

I'll take some before and after pics of the work....I am going to smoke a 10lb brisket and 14lb turkey that I split in halves and finish off w sausage links on the top to let it cook into the meat..wish there was a way I could send some to you guys

Thanks for all, tstex

You shouldn't say things like that to some one who has trouble cooking water. :biggrin2:

 

[tstex]

If you can build s house, you can smoke a turkey

The only meat my oldest daughter can eat is turkey. Therefore, I smoked a 14lb bird I split into halves bc it cooks quicker. I coat w olive oil and a rub & smoke at 225-250 for x hrs per lb, spraying apple cider vinegar every 30-45 mins. About 1.25-1,5 hrs b4 the bird is done, I place 2 Lg sausage links on ea half - presto. Did this when I rebuilt the wellhouse

 

[tstex]

Going to start this project this coming Wednesday if it does not rain.

Here's a pic of the inside of the foundation. As noted, I am going to even-up the sides to make a perimeter beam so the 2x4 base of the well-house can rest on an evenly poured beam...I will take some before, during and after of the project. thanks, tstex