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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
My name is Tom. I am new here.

I am in process of flooring an adjoining half bath and laundry room. I will be putting in 13 x 13 ceramic tile when all is said and done. My predicament lies in the unlevel floor in the laundry room. The bottom of the floor is not exposed as it was raised, and built independently of the origanal cir.1850 floor to occomidate plumbing I had to access some of the plumbing during the remodel and found a solid build of 2x10 16o.c. With approx. 6 ft span in the bath and just shy of 6 ft in the laundry both covered with 3/4 t&g plywood and luan then linoleum. My goal is to tile both rooms through the doorway with no threshold but there is a height difference at the threshold now due to the laundry leaning 3/4 " to the back corner over the span of about 9 feet.

Removing and reframing the ill leveled joists is not a feasible option. I did drill and check the sag with a borescope and it appears to be a framing error, as I see no evidence of settling or other problems.

For lack of better ideas , My thought was to thin set/cement board both rooms over the luan independtly, as they are both acceptably flat and compensate for the height difference with self leveling cement on top of the cement board. Then continue on with a conventional thin set install.

I can not find any evidence why this wouldn't be acceptable. I also can not find any thing to back up my idea and I am unwilling to take a chance. I have to limit my over all height gain at the bath (which is perfectly flat and level) to about 1 inch.

I am looking for any other ideas Or thoughts on my approach.

Thanks in advance
Tom
 

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Luan is an unexceptable underlayment for tile.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Although I can understand that luan being unacceptable, I don't understand how 2x10 at 16 on center is 4 to 5 times to wide. This seemed par, even over kill, for such a short run at under 6 feet. I am obviously no expert that's why I am asking for help here. Recommendations? I am not against removing the luan, if necessary to do so.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Jimmy essential yes, but the floor goes from even to 3/4 over the length of the room. The problem lies in the doorway between the two rooms where the floors are not even with each other....I understand the confusion it is hard to explain. Sorry.
 

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I don't know where the comment about the floor joists being unacceptable came from. I would disregard that.

As for the 3/4" discrepancy, if it is a large area, you might try to make up 1/2" of the 3/4" with some tilebacker or plywood before you go to the floor leveler. If it is a small area or the cost isn't too great, then just go with the floor leveler everywhere.
 

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Post some pics of your floor now.
Linoleum & luon needs to go.
Why can't you take the plywood up as well?
This way you can sister your joists up to hight then ply cbu thinset and tile.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Jet,
I can not figure how to attach a picture. I am posting from my phone. Imagine a step down from the threshold between the two rooms, at it's largest height discrepancy of 1/2 inch, tapering of to 1/8 drop. The best I can figure I will have a total area of 3x7 feet that wil need a varying amount of leveling from a skim to 3/4 inch.

I know pulling the floor would be ideal, but the layer of 1" plank below the plywood holds an interior wall. The wall contains plumbing, electrical, and way more headaches than I have the time to deal with.

My concern doesn't necessarily lie in the strength or durability of the floor, but the longevity of self leveling cement over a portion of the floor. I have never used it, and am concerned about cement with out any suitable substrate or reinforcing being reliable. Am I over thinking the whole process? My history is to over engineer these type of obstacles. My other thought is to hardi board the good room, install mesh as I would under a mortar scratch coat for veneer stone work, and pour the entire room to match the good room, but with about 6x9 feet of area to cover ranging now from 1/2 to 1 1/4 inches in depth this could become excessively expensive in self leveling cement.
 

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Well then second option is to lay your cbu 1/4" on ply but ply needs to be cleaned good, place it in modified thinset bed mesh tape seams & backer screws let dry then use slc on the slop floor mixed like chocolate milk consistency and let it run to the direction make shore you mark you hight on the walls so you know how much slc to use.

Now that being said to get the right high from all this you will need to put 1/4" ply down 1st?.....
 
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